Crochet Tulip | Free Crochet Pattern

Blooming from this free crochet tulip amigurumi pattern are all the sunny scenes of sweet springtime—the bitter air softening to a warm, fresh breeze, timid green buds peeking out from the ground, and trees redressing their cold limbs with new leaves.

While you bask in the fresh floral breeze of sunny springtime, there’s no better way to celebrate the rebirth of the earth than with this free crochet tulip amigurumi pattern!

So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Tulip Cutie, part 2 of 9 in the Flower Cuties collection!

Pattern Information | Free Crochet Tulip Amigurumi

This free crochet tulip amigurumi pattern has a difficulty rating of intermediate.

The finished dimensions are 8 inches (height) by 3.25 inches (width) by 3.25 inches (depth).*

You may also make your pieces larger or smaller by increasing or decreasing your yarn weight and/or hook size, respectively.

*Finished dimensions are calculated from a model using medium weight yarn, a size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook, the YU/YO method and the following gauge: 18 sc x 21 rows = 4 inches.

And don’t forget to add your project on Ravelry!

Supplies:

• Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
• Medium (4) weight yarn in 4 colors:
  • Yarn A – brown (example uses Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
  • Yarn B – orange (example uses Caron One Pound: Faded Brick)
  • Yarn C – purple (example uses Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Raspberry)
  • Yarn D – green (example uses Big Twist Value: Forest Green)
• Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Baby Pink)
• Black embroidery floss
• 10mm black safety eyes (x2)
• Wire (example uses 14 Gauge Black Aluminum Wire by hildie & jo)
• Wire Cutters
• Polyester fiberfill
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Stitch markers

Alternate Yarn Supplies:

Color Variation 2 (as seen on the left in cover photo):

• Medium (4) weight yarn in 4 colors:
  • Yarn A – brown (example uses Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
  • Yarn B – rust (example uses Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Ginger)
  • Yarn C – pink (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Perfect Pink)
  • Yarn D – green (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Tea Leaf)
• Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Perfect Pink)

Terminology:

This free crochet tulip amigurumi pattern uses English (US) terminology:

• st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
• ch = chain stitch
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• FLO = front loop only
• BLO = back loop only
• sk = skip

Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.

You can learn more about how to read Virkadia patterns on our Pattern Help FAQ page!

Special Stitch Instructions:

Please review our special stitch instructions on our Stitch Tutorials FAQ before beginning, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.

You can also watch our amigurumi techniques video tutorial for all of our tips and tricks for improving your project!

This free crochet tulip amigurumi pattern uses the following special stitch tutorials:

• Single Crochet (YU/YO Method)
• Invisible Decrease
• Joining Rounds

This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.

Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.

Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Tulip Amigurumi

Crochet Tulip Petals:

With yarn C (purple), chain 7.

Rnd 1: beginning in 2nd ch from hook, *1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st* working into other side of ch sts, repeat from * to * 1 time, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (14).

Rnd 2: [1sc into each of next 6 sts, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join (16).

Fasten off yarn C and weave in ends. Set aside for now

Repeat rounds 1 and 2, two more times, for a total of three petals. These will be your inner petals.

With yarn C (purple), chain 8.

Rnd 1: 3dc into 3rd ch from hook, 1dc into next st, 1hdc into each of next 2 sts, 1sc into next st, 2sc into next st, working into other side of ch sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts, 1hdc into each of next 2 sts, 1dc into next st, 3dc into next st, sl st into 1st dc to join, ch 1 (17).

Rnd 2: 2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 6 sts, 2sc into each of next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 6 sts, 2sc into next st, join (22).

Fasten off yarn C and weave in ends. Set aside for now.

Repeat rounds 1 and 2, two more times, for a total of three petals. These will be your outer petals.

Crochet Tulip Leaves:

With yarn D (green), chain 13.

Rnd 1: sl st into 2nd ch from hook, sl st into each of next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, 1hdc into each of next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 2 sts, (1dc, ch 3, sl st into same st as dc) into next st, ch 3, working into other side of ch sts, 1dc into each of next 3 sts, 1hdc into each of next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, sl st into each of next 3 sts, sl st into 1st st to join (31).

Fasten off yarn E and weave in tails. Set aside for now.

Repeat round 1, one more time, for a total of two leaves.

Crochet Tulip Stem:

With yarn C (purple), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Retrieve your all of your petals set aside earlier (3 inner petals and 3 outer petals).

You will now be working each stitch through one of your petals and your current round simultaneously in order to attach each petal to the stem.

You will attach your inner petals with round 2 of the stem, and your outer petals during round 3.

All petals should be laid over top of your current round with their ‘right sides’ facing you as you attach them.

Locate the last 2 stitches of round 2 of your inner petals. These will be the stitches you will work into to attach them to your stem during round 2.

Then, locate the first and last stitches of round 2 of your outer petals. During round 3, attach your outer petals using the same method, with the exception that each petal will be shifted 1 stitch sooner in the round.

Optionally, if you have difficulty attaching the petals in this way, you may instead sew them onto the stem afterwards with a length of yarn C.

If you choose to sew the petals on instead, simply replace round 2 and 3 of the stem with normal rounds (1sc into each st around, join).

Choose whichever method works best for you!

Rnd 2: [1sc into 2nd to last st of next petal and next st of stem together, 1sc into last st of same petal and next st of stem together] 3 times, join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 3: 1sc into 1st st of 1st petal and next st of stem together, [1sc into last st of next petal and next st of stem together, 1sc into 1st st of same petal and next st of stem together] 2 times, 1sc into last st of 1st petal and next st of stem together, join (6).

Fasten off yarn C and leave a short tail for tying.

Join yarn D (green) by inserting your hook into the first stitch of your next round. Leaving a short tail for tying, pull up a loop of yarn D and ch 1.

Tie the tails of both yarn C and yarn D together on the interior of your piece to secure your ends.

The remainder of this crochet tulip stem is worked mainly in rounds of only 4 stitches each.

While this creates a nice, slim stem for your flower, it may be challenging for some crocheters to work into.

If you have difficulty working into small rounds, you may instead replace rounds 5 to 14 with continuing rounds of 6 stitches each (1sc into each st around, join).

Choose whichever method works best for you!

Rnd 4: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 5: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (4).

Rnd 6: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).

Rnd 7 to 13 (7 rnds): repeat rnd 5 (4).

Rnd 14: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (6).

Retrieve your crochet tulip leaves set aside earlier.

Align your first leaf so that both of the 3-chain sequences (on the opposite side of your pointy end) are parallel with your current round.

You will be working round 15 through both the chain stitches of the leaf and the current round of the stem to attach them together.

Optionally, if you have difficulty attaching the leaves in this way (especially the second leaf, which is trickier), you may instead sew them onto the stem afterwards with a length of yarn D.

If you are choosing to sew the leaves instead, simply replace rounds 15 and 16 with normal rounds (1sc into each st around, join, ch 1).

Choose whichever method works best for you!

Rnd 15: 1sc into each st around of both leaf and stem together, join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 16: 1sc into 4th ch of leaf and 1st st of stem together, 1sc into each of next 2 sts of both leaf and stem together, 1sc into 1st ch of leaf and 4th st of stem together, 1sc into each of next 2 sts of both leaf and stem together, join (6).

Fasten of yarn D and leave a short tail for tying.

If you skipped attaching the leaves during round 15 and 16, you may sew them on now.

Crochet Pot Dirt – Rounds 1 to 5:

With yarn A (brown), leave a tail for sewing and chain 6. Slip stitch into the first chain to form a circle and chain 1.

Rnd 1: 2sc into each ch around, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 2: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).

Rnd 3: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).

Rnd 4: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 5: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join (36).

Fasten off yarn A and leave a short tail for tying.

Crochet Terracotta Pot – Rounds 1 to 7:

Join yarn B (orange) by inserting your hook into the front loop only of the first stitch of your next round.

Leaving a long beginning tail (~2 ft) for sewing, pull up a loop of yarn B and ch 1.

Rnd 1: 1sc into FLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 2: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 3: in BLO of each st around, [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (42).

Rnd 4: 1sc into BLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (42).

Rnd 5: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (42).

Rnd 6: in BLO of each st around, [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 7: 1sc into FLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (36).

Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the directions below for sewing the rim of the crochet terracotta pot before continuing to round 8.

Crochet Terracotta Pot – Sewing the Rim:

Flip your work and locate the two rounds of loops (the back loops from round 5 of the dirt and the back loops from round 5 of the pot) that are left over on the interior of your crochet terracotta pot.

With your long (~2 ft) beginning tail of yarn B, sew these two rounds of back loops only together around the entire circumference of the pot in order to seal off your rim.

Then, secure with a knot on the interior of your piece using the short end tail of yarn A and trim any excess tail.

Remove the stitch marker from your working loop and continue to round 8 of your crochet terracotta pot below.

Crochet Terracotta Pot – Rounds 8 to 14:

Rnd 8: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 9: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 16 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (34).

Rnd 10: [1sc into each of next 15 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (32).

Rnd 11: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 14 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 12: [1sc into each of next 13 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (28).

Rnd 13: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 12 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (26).

Rnd 14: [1sc into each of next 11 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (24).

Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the directions below for adding the eyes, mouth, and blush onto your crochet terracotta pot before continuing to round 15.

Adding Eyes:

Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through the center of the front of your crochet flower pot (a quarter-turn before your joining seam).

The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 9 and 10 and should sit 6 stitches apart.

Adding Mouth:

Rotate your piece so that the beginning rounds face upwards and your last round faces downwards.

Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a mouth using black embroidery floss.

The mouth should be embroidered over top of round 11 and be centered between the eyes. The mouth will be 2 stitches wide and 1 round tall.

Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 2 stitches to the right from where you’ve inserted the left eye. Pull through and leave some tail for tying later.

Then, insert your needle again, 2 stitches to the right, and out again, 1 round down and 1 stitch to the left from where you’ve just inserted, and pull through.

Pass your needle up and underneath the horizontal strand you’ve just created and pull through. Then, insert your needle back into the same space as you’ve last exited from.

Pull your thread through and tug it down slightly until it forms a V-shape. Gently tie both ends together inside your piece, but take extra care not to pull the threads too tight!

Adding Blush:

Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a blush line using pink embroidery floss or yarn next to each eye.

Each blush line should start 1 round down (between rounds 10 and 11) and 1 stitch outwards from where each eye was inserted, and span 1 stitch length outwards (away from the center of the face).

Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 1 stitch outwards from where you’ve inserted the eye.

Pull through, leaving some tail inside for tying later. Then, insert your needle back in, 1 more stitch outwards.

If using medium weight yarn, you may skip ahead to tying both ends together on the inside of your piece.

If using embroidery floss, pass your needle back out through the same space as you’ve last exited from. Pull through and repeat both steps 4 more times.

On the next pass, insert your needle as normal but do not exit. Instead, pull through and remove your needle, then gently tie both ends together on the inside of your piece, taking extra care not to pull the threads too tight!

Crochet Terracotta Pot – Rounds 15 to 17:

Continue to the next round of your crochet terracotta pot and begin stuffing as you go.

For best results, do not overstuff your piece! You’ll want to keep the bottom of your pot as flat as possible so that it can stand upright without tipping over.

You can also trace the bottom of your pot and cut out a circle of cardboard to add into the bottom of your pot to help keep the bottom flat, if desired.

You may also consider adding coins, stones, or a small bag or balloon of sand into the bottom of your pot to help keep it weighed down.

If you are still having trouble with your project being unable to stand upright on its own, you may follow the instructions for adding a cloth onto the bottom of your pot, after sewing together.

Rnd 15: in BLO of each st around, [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).

Rnd 16: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 17: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 time, join (6).

Fasten off yarn B and leave a tail for sewing closed.

Sewing Closed:

To sew the bottom hole closed, pass the needle (front to back) through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight. Secure the tail with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.

Crochet Tulip – Sewing Together:

Retrieve your tulip and place the bottom of the stem over top of the center hole (round 1) of the crochet flower pot.

Using the tail of yarn A leftover from the beginning of the flower pot, sew around the entire circumference of the tulip stem and flower pot hole to attach them together.

Secure with a knot to the end tail of the stem, trim any excess length, and weave in tails.

Finally, cut a length of wire to the height of your crochet tulip, from the bottom of the flower pot to the top of stem.

Gently thread the wire through the center of the flower and down the stem until it reaches the bottom of your crochet flower pot and your tulip is able to stand upright on its own.

Adding Cloth:

If you’re still struggling to keep your project standing upright, despite keeping the bottom flat or adding weight into the pot, you may consider adding a cloth onto your pot!

As seen below, this embellishment will add the illusion that your pot is sitting on top of a doily-like cloth, while also helping to widen the base of your project and preventing it from tipping over.

Join your chosen yarn color by inserting your hook into any front loop only, left over from round 14, along the bottom edge of your pot.

Be sure to insert your hook from the direction of the top of your project and towards the bottom, so that the right side of your stitches will be facing upwards.

Leaving a short tail for weaving in, pull up a loop of your chosen yarn and ch 1.

Rnd 1: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 2: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 3: [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (42).

Rnd 4: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 6 sts] 6 times, join (48).

Rnd 5: [sk next 2 sts, 7dc into next st, sk next 2 sts, sl st into next st] 8 times (64).

Fasten off your chosen yarn and weave in both tails.

Conclusion | Free Crochet Tulip Amigurumi

And with that, you’re done the free crochet Tulip Cutie pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out its eight companion patterns in the Flower Cuties collection: the Daffodil Cutie, the Daisy Cutie, the Carnation Cutie, the Sunflower Cutie, the Rose Cutie, the Lily of the Valley Cutie, the Pansy Cutie (releasing May 23, 2025), and the Lily Cutie (releasing June 6, 2025)!

You can also explore the Cutie Collections page and the Pocket Pets page for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!

If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!

And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!

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