Crochet Lily of the Valley | Free Pattern

Blooming from this free crochet lily of the valley amigurumi pattern are all the sunny scenes of sweet springtime—delicate buds swaying in a light breeze, soft scents lingering in the fresh air, and the rays of a dawning sun glinting off of little droplets of dew.

While you bask in the fresh floral breeze of sunny springtime, there’s no better way to celebrate the rebirth of the earth than with this free crochet lily of the valley amigurumi pattern!

So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Lily of the Valley Cutie, part 7 of 9 in the Flower Cuties collection!

Pattern Information | Free Crochet Lily of the Valley Amigurumi

Tired of ads? Check out our ad-free PDF download, available for purchase on Etsy!

And don’t forget to add your project on Ravelry!

This free crochet lily of the valley amigurumi pattern has a difficulty rating of intermediate.

The finished dimensions are 7.5 inches (height) by 5.25 inches (width) by 3.25 inches (depth) when posed like the example model.*

You may also make your pieces larger or smaller by increasing or decreasing your yarn weight and/or hook size, respectively.

*Finished dimensions are calculated from a model using medium weight yarn, a size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook, the YU/YO method and the following gauge: 18 sc x 21 rows = 4 inches.

Supplies:

• Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
• Medium (4) weight yarn in 5 colors:
  • Yarn A – pink (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Baby Pink)
  • Yarn B – green (Big Twist Value: Forest Green)
  • Yarn C – brown (Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
  • Yarn D – blue (Big Twist Value: Denim Blue)
  • Yarn E – beige (Red Heart Super Saver: Buff)
• 10 mm black safety eyes (x2)
• Black embroidery floss
• Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn (Red Heart Super Saver: Perfect Pink)
• Wire (14 Gauge Black Aluminum Wire by hildie & jo)
• Wire Cutters
• Polyester fiberfill
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Stitch markers

Alternate Yarn Supplies:

Color Variation 2 (as seen on the left in cover photo):

• Medium (4) weight yarn in 5 colors:
  • Yarn A – white (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Soft White)
  • Yarn B – green (Big Twist Value: Forest Green)
  • Yarn C – brown (Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
  • Yarn D – orange (Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Ginger)
  • Yarn E – beige (Red Heart Super Saver: Buff)

Terminology:

This free crochet lily of the valley amigurumi pattern uses English (US) terminology:

• st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
• ch = chain stitch
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• FLO = front loop only
• BLO = back loop only

Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.

You can learn more about how to read Virkadia patterns on our Pattern Help FAQ page!

Special Stitch Instructions

Please review our special stitch instructions on our Stitch Tutorials FAQ before beginning, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.

You can also watch our amigurumi techniques video tutorial for all of our tips and tricks for improving your project!

This free crochet lily of the valley amigurumi pattern uses the following special stitch tutorials:

• Single Crochet (YU/YO Method)
• Invisible Decrease
• Joining Rounds

This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.

Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.

Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Lily of the Valley Amigurumi

Tired of ads? Check out our ad-free PDF download, available for purchase on Etsy!

And don’t forget to add your project on Ravelry!

Crochet Lily of the Valley Flower – Rounds 1 to 12:

With yarn A (pink), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 3: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 4: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 5: 1sc into each st around, do not join, ch 1, turn (6).

Rnd 6: 2sc into BLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (12).

You should now have 6 front loops remaining in the center of your piece, with round 6 on the outside, flaring outwards.

Ignore the leftover front loops for now, as we will be working back into these loops later to connect the flower to the stem.

For round 7 and onwards, we will be building the exterior layer of our flower by working back in the opposite direction than we were before, so that our new layer folds to be over top of rounds 1 to 5.

Rnd 7: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (15).

Rnd 8: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (15).

Rnd 9: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (15).

Rnd 10: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (15).

Rnd 11: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 12: [3sc into FLO of next st, sl st into next st] 6 times, join (24).

Fasten off yarn A and weave in tail.

Set aside for now. Repeat rounds 1 to 12, 2 more times, for a total of 3 crochet lily of the valley flowers before continuing to the leaf and stems.

Crochet Lily of the Valley Leaf:

With yarn B (green), chain 23.

Rnd 1: 1dc into 4th ch from hook, 1dc into each of next 4 sts, 1tr into each of next 10 sts, 2tr into next st, 1dc into next st, 1hdc into next st, 1sc into next st, sl st into next st, ch 1, working into other side of ch sts, sl st into next st, 1sc into next st, 1hdc into next st, 1dc into next st, 2tr into next st, 1tr into each of next 10 sts, 1dc into each of next 5 sts, ch 3, sl st into same st as last dc (50).

Fasten off yarn B and weave in both tails. Then, continue to round 1 of the crochet lily of the valley stems.

Crochet Lily of the Valley Stems – Rounds 1 to 4:

Retrieve one of your crochet lily of the valley flowers and locate the front loops only left over from round 5 at the bottom of the flower.

With yarn B (green), insert your hook into any front loop only, from outside to inside, so that the ‘right side,’ or front side of your new stitches, will be facing outwards.

Yarn over yarn B, then pull through and chain 1.

You will now be working round 1 of the stem directly off of the flower, into the front loops only of each stitch around.

Alternatively, if you’re have trouble working round 1 of the stem directly off of the flower, you may instead work your stem separately.

To do this, leave a beginning tail for sewing and chain 6 with yarn B (green). Slip stitch into the first stitch to form a circle, then chain 1.

After completing your stem, you may then use your beginning tail to sew your stem onto the bottom of your crochet lily of the valley flower.

Choose whichever method works best for you!

Rnd 1: 1sc into each at around, join, ch 1 (6).

The next round decreases to only 4 stitches around. While this creates a nice, slim stem for your flower, it may be challenging for some crocheters to work into.

If you have difficulty working into small rounds, you may continue with rounds of 6 stitches each (1sc into each st around, join, ch 1), instead.

Rnd 2: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (4).

Rnd 3: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).

Rnd 4: 1sc into each st around, join (4).

If this is your first or second stem, fasten off yarn B and leave a tail for sewing. Set aside for now.

Repeat rounds 1 to 4, 2 more times, onto your 2 remaining crochet lily of the valley flowers, for a total of 3 stemmed flowers altogether.

On your third stem, however, do not fasten off. Instead, chain 1 and continue to round 5 below.

Crochet Lily of the Valley Stem – Rounds 5 to 20:

Rnd 5: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).

Rnd 6: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).

Rnd 7: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).

Rnd 8: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).

Retrieve one of your shorter stemmed flowers that you’ve set aside earlier.

Round 9 will be worked into each stitch of your current stem first, then each stitch of your shorter stem, as well, to connect both stems together.

Please note, if you are making a thicker stem with 6 stitches around, you will be working 2 more stitches into each stem during round 9.

Additionally, for the thicker stem, add an extra single crochet (1sc into next st) to the beginning of each bracketed sequence in rounds 10 and 11, as well.

Rnd 9: 1sc into each of next 4 sts of current stem, 1sc into each of next 4 sts of shorter stem, join, ch 1 (8).

Rnd 10: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 11: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (4).

If you spread your flower stems apart, you may notice a small hole between the two stems, where they have been joined together during round 9.

This small hole is fine to be left as it is. However, if you find that it bothers you, you may use the tail, left over from fastening off of your shorter stem, to sew any gaps in the stitches closed.

Rnd 12: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).

Rnd 13: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).

Retrieve your last unattached stem. You will be connecting this stem onto your piece using the same method as before.

Rnd 14: 1sc into each of next 4 sts of current stem, 1sc into each of next 4 sts of shorter stem, join, ch 1 (8).

Rnd 15: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 16: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (4).

Rnd 17: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).

Rnd 18: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).

If you are making a thicker stem of 6 stitches each round, work a normal round (1sc into each st around, join, ch 1) in place of round 19.

Rnd 19: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (6).

Retrieve your crochet lily of the valley leaf that you’ve set aside earlier.

We will be working our stitches in round 20 through both the chain stitches along the bottom edge of the leaf and the current round of the stem simultaneously, in order to attach them together.

Align your leaf, right side facing outwards, so that both of the 3-chain sequences (on the opposite side from your pointy end) are laying in front of and are parallel with your current round.

Take care to work round 20 into the actual chain stitches at the end of the leaf only. Do not work into the slip stitch between the 3-chain sequences, nor the open spaces beneath the chains.

Optionally, if you have difficulty attaching the leaf in this way, you may instead work a normal round (1sc into each st around, join), then sew the leaf onto the stem afterwards with a length of yarn B.

Choose whichever method works best for you!

Rnd 20: 1sc into each st around of both leaf and stem together, join (6).

Fasten off yarn B and leave a short tail for tying.

Crochet Pot Dirt:

With yarn C (brown), leave a tail for sewing and chain 6. Slip stitch into the first chain to form a circle and chain 1.

Rnd 1: 2sc into each ch around, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 2: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).

Rnd 3: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).

Rnd 4: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 5: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join (36).

Fasten off yarn C and leave a long (~2 ft) tail for sewing.

Alternatively, you may instead leave just a short end tail on your dirt, then start the next section of your pot with a long beginning tail—either works, as long as one tail is left long!

Crochet Drip Glaze Pot:

Follow the tutorial for the Drip Glaze Pot Cutie companion pattern before continuing to the next steps.

If desired, you may also substitute the drip glaze pot with a Terracotta Pot Cutie—both pot patterns are compatible with all of our Flower Cuties and Plant Cuties!

The terracotta pot pattern, as seen in the photo below, is easier in difficulty than the drip glaze pot and is a great option for crocheters that are not comfortable with mid-round color changing and surface crochet techniques.

Conversely, the drip glaze pot pattern, as seen above, is more challenging but also has a wider base than the terracotta pot and makes your projects less prone to being top-heavy and is a great option for larger flowers such as the Lily of the Valley Cutie.

Choose whichever pattern works best for you!

Sewing Together:

Retrieve your flowers and place the bottom of the stem over top of the center hole (round 1) of your dirt.

The example crochet lily of the valley is sewn together first, with the wire added into it last. However, you may also add your wire into your flower now, before sewing together, if desired.

Using the tail of yarn C, left over from the beginning of the dirt, sew around the entire circumference of the stem and dirt hole to attach them together.

Secure your sewing with a knot to the end tail of the stem. Then, trim any excess length and weave in all tails.

Finally, cut a length of wire to the height of your crochet lily of the valley, from the bottom of the flower pot to the top of stem.

Gently thread the wire through the center of the topmost flower and down the stem until it reaches the bottom of your flower pot.

For best results, you may also cut two shorter lengths of wire and add them into the shorter stems, in order to pose your lower flowers, as well.

Then, gently shape the wire inside your stem into the shape shown in the example crochet lily of the valley, or customize your flower into your own unique pose!

Once you have your plant shaped to your liking, finish off your crochet lily of the valley by taking a short length of yarn B (green), and sewing the upper edge of your leaf onto your stem so that your leaf stands up.

For a more natural look, allow a little bit of slack in your leaf instead of pulling it taut or straight upwards.

The example leaf is sewn on the back edge of the leaf, above the 2 treble crochet worked into 1 stitch.

It is then attached onto the stem between the first and second flowers, roughly over rounds 4 to 5 of the topmost stem.

Secure your sewing with a knot and weave in all tails.

Conclusion | Free Crochet Lily of the Valley Amigurumi

And with that, you’re done the free crochet Lily of the Valley Cutie pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out all of its companion patterns in the Flower Cuties collection: the Daffodil Cutie, the Tulip Cutie, the Daisy Cutie, the Carnation Cutie, the Sunflower Cutie, the Rose Cutie, the Pansy Cutie, and the Lily Cutie!

You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!

If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!

And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!

Follow Virkadia on Instagram to stay updated on all new and upcoming patterns, crochet content, and amigurumi adventures! Thank you for all of your support!