Blooming from this free crochet lily amigurumi pattern are all the sunny scenes of sweet springtime—daylilies blossoming wide in their short-lived beauty, tiger lilies ornamenting gardens with their colorful speckles, and Easter lilies bowing their greeting from carefully curated vases.
While you bask in the fresh floral breeze of sunny springtime, there’s no better way to celebrate the rebirth of the earth than with this free crochet lily amigurumi pattern!
So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Lily Cutie, part 9 of 9 in the Flower Cuties collection!
Pattern Information | Free Crochet Lily Amigurumi
This free crochet lily amigurumi pattern has a difficulty rating of advanced.
The finished dimensions are 8 inches (height) by 5.5 inches (width) by 5.5 inches (depth).*
You may also make your pieces larger or smaller by increasing or decreasing your yarn weight and/or hook size, respectively.
*Finished dimensions are calculated from a model using medium weight yarn, a size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook, the YU/YO method and the following gauge: 18 sc x 21 rows = 4 inches.
Supplies:
- Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 6 colors:
- Yarn A – dark orange (example uses Big Twist Value: Rust)
- Yarn B – green (example uses Big Twist Value: Forest Green)
- Yarn C – pink (example uses Big Twist Value: Medium Rose)
- Yarn D – brown (example uses Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
- Yarn E – blue (example uses Big Twist Value: Denim Blue)
- Yarn F – beige (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Buff)
- 10mm black safety eyes (x2)
- Black embroidery floss
- Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Perfect Pink)
- Wire (example uses 14 Gauge Black Aluminum Wire by hildie & jo)
- Wire Cutters
- Polyester fiberfill
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Alternate Yarn Supplies:
Color Variation 2 (as seen on the left in cover photo):
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 6 colors:
- Yarn A – burgundy (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Burgundy)
- Yarn B – green (example uses Big Twist Value: Forest Green)
- Yarn C – yellow (example uses Caron One Pound: Sun Yellow)
- Yarn D – brown (example uses Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
- Yarn E – orange (example uses Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Ginger)
- Yarn F – beige (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Buff)
Terminology:
This free crochet lily amigurumi pattern uses English (US) terminology:
- st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- tr = treble crochet
- FLO = front loop only
- BLO = back loop only
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
You can learn more about how to read Virkadia patterns on our Pattern Help FAQ page!
Special Stitch Instructions
Please review our special stitch instructions on our Stitch Tutorials FAQ before beginning, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.
You can also watch our amigurumi techniques video tutorial for all of our tips and tricks for improving your project!
This free crochet lily amigurumi pattern uses the following special stitch tutorials:
- Single Crochet (YU/YO Method)
- Invisible Decrease
- Joining Rounds
- Changing Colors Mid-Round
This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.
Changing Colors Mid-Round:
This free crochet lily amigurumi pattern uses a mid-round color changing technique, as seen below, when creating the flower’s stamens.
This color changing method begins in the stitch immediately before the stitch that you want to be a different color. Begin this stitch as normal by inserting into the next stitch, yarning under, and pulling through.
Before the last pull through, drop your current color and instead grab the color you want to change to. Yarn over this new color and pull through both loops to complete your color change.
Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Lily Amigurumi
Crochet Lily Stamens:
With yarn A (dark orange), chain 4.
For best results, try working into the back bars, not the back loops, of each chain during row 1.
Keep yarn B (green) on standby. Row 1 will change colors mid-row, from yarn A to yarn B.
If you haven’t done so already, be sure to familiarize yourself with how to change colors mid-round in the tutorial above.
Additionally, when working the crochet lily stamen, leave a long beginning tail when you are changing to yarn B (green).
Following the color change, continue row 1 by yarning over and pulling through with both ends of the yarn—the working yarn and the beginning tail—as you work each chain.
After completing each chain stitch, hold your working loop firmly on your hook and pull up with your hook until your last chain stitch is pulled firmly tight.
Repeat these steps with each chain stitch in row 1, using doubled yarn to make each chain then pulling each stitch tight after completing.
This should give you a thick and tight bottom to your stamen so that it will be able to stand up on its own.
Row 1: 1sc into 2nd ch from hook, 1sc into each of next 2 sts and change to yarn B, ch 12 using both ends of yarn B and pulling tight after each ch (15).
Fasten off and weave in both tails of yarn A. Do not weave in the tails of yarn B, yet.
Repeat row 1, two more times, for a total of three crochet lily stamens. Set all stamens aside, for now, and continue to the leaves.
Crochet Lily Leaves:
With yarn B (green), chain 9.
Rnd 1: 1sc into 2nd ch from hook, 1hdc into each of next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, sl st into next st, ch 1, working into other side of ch sts, sl st into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, 1hdc into each of next 3 sts, 1sc into next st, sl st into same st (18).
Fasten off and leave an end tail for sewing. Weave in beginning tail and set aside for now.
Repeat round 1, one more time, for a total of two leaves. Then, continue to the crochet lily petals.
Crochet Lily Petals:
With yarn C (pink), chain 13.
Rnd 1: 1sc into 2nd ch from hook, 1hdc into next st, 1dc into next st, 2tr into each of next 2 sts, 1dc into each of next 2 sts, 1hdc into each of next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts, sl st into next st, ch 1, working into other side of ch sts, sl st into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts, 1hdc into each of next 2 sts, 1dc into each of next 2 sts, 2tr into each of next 2 st, 1dc into next st, 1hdc into next st, 1sc into next st, sl st into same st (30).
Fasten off and weave in both tails. Set aside for now.
Repeat round 1, five more times, for a total of six petals. Then, continue to the crochet lily stem.
Crochet Lily Stem – Rounds 1 to 5:
With yarn C (pink), leave a beginning tail for sewing and chain 6.
Slip stitch into the first stitch to form a ring, then chain 1.
Rnd 1: 1sc into each st around, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rounds 2 and 3 will be attaching the petals onto the stem by working two single crochets through each petal and the stem simultaneously.
Optionally, to make joining the petals easier, you may add a stitch marker into the first and last single crochet stitches in round 1 of each petal.
These stitches are where you will be working into as you join each petal onto the stem.
Additionally, before attaching the petals, make sure that the ‘right side’ of round 1 is facing outwards.
The petals, however, should have the ‘wrong side’ facing you as you attach each petal. This will ensure that the right side of the petals will be facing outwards after the flower is rotated upwards.
If you have difficulty with this method, you may instead sew the petals onto the stem individually, using a length of yarn C (pink), after adding the stamens into the stem.
If you are choosing to sew the petals instead, simply replace rounds 2 and 3 with normal rounds (1sc into each st around, join, ch 1).
Rnd 2: [1sc into 1st st of next petal and next st of stem together, 1sc into last st of same petal and next st of stem together] 3 times, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 3: 1sc into last st of next petal and next st of stem together, [1sc into 1st st of next petal and next st of stem together, 1sc into last st of same petal and next st of stem together] 2 times, 1sc into 1st st of 1st petal and next st of stem together, join (6).
Fasten off yarn C (pink) and leave a short tail for tying.
Join yarn B (green) by inserting your hook into the first stitch of your next round. Leaving a short tail for tying, pull up a loop of yarn B and ch 1.
Tie the tails of both yarn B and yarn C together on the interior of your piece to secure your ends.
Rnd 4: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 5: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (6).
Secure your working look with a stitch marker and follow the instructions for attaching the stamens into your crochet lily stem before continuing to round 6.
Attaching Stamens:
Retrieve all three stamens that you’ve set aside earlier.
Using a needle and the beginning and end tails left over at the bottom of the stamens, thread the chain-end of each stamen through the top center of the stem.
Pull each stamen through the center of the stem until the end tails of each stamen are hanging out of the bottom, past round 5, of your stem.
The other end of each stamen, with the thicker piece worked in yarn A (dark orange), should remain sticking out of the top center of your flower.
Once all three stamens are inserted to your liking, tightly knot all six end tails together inside of the stem and cut any excess length from all tails.
Next, being careful not to pull out the stamens, use the beginning tail of yarn C (pink) left over at the beginning of the stem to sew the stamens in place.
For best results, try sewing through each chain, from front to back, at the foundation round of the stem, then pulling tight to secure the stamens.
You may also sew through the center of the stem, from one side of the stem to the other, several times until the stamens stay in place, if needed.
If you omitted attaching the crochet lily petals onto the stem during rounds 2 and 3 of the stem, you may sew them on now using the same tail of yarn C.
Once your stamens and petals are secured to your liking, you may follow the optional instructions next to shape your petals even further. Otherwise, continue to round 6 of the stem.
Shaping Petals (Optional):
As your crochet lily is now, the petals should be freely movable and lay wide open by default.
If you like your petals as is, you may skip ahead to round 6 of the stem.
However, if you’d like your lily petals to be shaped more closely together, or more similar to a natural lily, you may follow the directions below.
With a length of yarn C (pink), leave a beginning tail for tying and sew through one of your bottom petals, from front to back, through the same space as where the innermost (towards the center of the flower) two treble crochets were worked into on the right side of the petal.
Then, sew from back to front through the same space as the innermost treble crochets on the left side of the petal, just on the other side of the foundation chain.
Next, sew from back to front through the top loops of the innermost treble crochet on the petal above and to the left.
Lastly, sew from front to back through the top loops of the innermost treble crochet on the top petal to the right.
Tighten and tie both ends of your yarn together to secure your sewing. Trim both tails and weave in any excess length.
Repeat these steps, two more times, with the remaining bottom petals, connecting each bottom petal with the top two petals on either side.
When finished, tilt the top tip of each petal out and downward to pose your lily as seen below.
Crochet Lily Stems – Rounds 6 to 14:
The remainder of this crochet lily stem is worked mainly in rounds of only 4 stitches each.
While this creates a nice, slim stem for your flower, it may be challenging for some crocheters to work into.
If you have difficulty working into small rounds, you may instead replace rounds 6 to 14 with continuing rounds of 6 stitches each (1sc into each st around, join, ch 1).
Choose whichever method works best for you!
Rnd 6: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 7: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 8: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Using the same method as with the petals, round 9 will be attaching the first leaf by working two single crochets through the leaf and stem simultaneously.
Just like the petals, you may add a stitch marker into the first and last single crochet in round 1 of the leaf for easier reference.
These are the stitches you will be working into to attach the leaf. Additionally, the leaf should have the ‘wrong side’ facing you as you attach it onto the stem.
If you have difficulty with this method, you may work a normal round (1sc into each st around, join, ch 1) and then sew the leaf onto the stem using a length of yarn B (green), instead.
Rnd 9: 1sc into 1st st of next leaf and next st of stem together, 1sc into last st of same leaf and next st of stem together, 1sc in each of next 2 sts, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 10: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 11: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
For round 12, use the same method as before to attach your second leaf onto the stem.
Rnd 12: 1sc in each of next 2 sts, 1sc into 1st st of next leaf and next st of stem together, 1sc into last st of same leaf and next st of stem together, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 13: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 14: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join (6).
Fasten off and leave a short tail for tying.
Crochet Drip Glaze Pot:
Follow the tutorial for the Drip Glaze Pot Cutie companion pattern before continuing to the next steps.
If desired, you may also substitute the drip glaze pot with a Terracotta Pot Cutie—both pot patterns are compatible with all of our Flower Cuties!
The terracotta pot pattern, as seen in the photo below, is slightly easier in difficulty than the drip glaze pot and is a great option for crocheters that are not comfortable with mid-round color changing techniques.
The drip glaze pot pattern, however, has a wider base than the terracotta pot and makes your projects less prone to being top-heavy.
Choose whichever pattern works best for you!
Sewing Together:
Retrieve your flower and place the bottom of the stem over top of the center hole (round 1) of your chosen flower pot.
Using the tail of yarn A (brown) left over from the beginning of the flower pot, sew around the entire circumference of the stem and flower pot hole to attach them together.
Secure with a knot to the end tail of the stem, trim any excess length, and weave in tails.
Finally, cut a length of wire to the height of your crochet lily, from the bottom of the flower pot to the top of stem.
Gently thread the wire through the center of the top of the lily and down the stem until it reaches the bottom of your flower pot.
Conclusion | Free Crochet Lily Amigurumi
And with that, you’re done the free crochet lily pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out all of its companion patterns in the Flower Cuties collection: the Daffodil Cutie, the Tulip Cutie, the Daisy Cutie, the Carnation Cutie, the Sunflower Cutie, the Rose Cutie, the Lily of the Valley Cutie, and the Pansy Cutie!
You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!
If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!
And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!
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