Blooming from this free crochet daffodil pattern are all the sunny scenes of sweet springtime—the smell of rain riding in on a traveling wind, freshly turned soil thawing to allow the passage of new sprouts, and flocks of homesick birds returning from their winter vacations.
While you bask in the fresh floral breeze of sunny springtime, there’s no better way to celebrate the rebirth of the earth than with this free daffodil amigurumi pattern!
So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Daffodil Cutie, part one of six in the Flower Cuties collection!
Pattern Information | Free Crochet Daffodil Amigurumi
Supplies:
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- Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 5 colors:
- Yarn A – brown (example uses Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
- Yarn B – orange (example uses Caron One Pound: Faded Brick)
- Yarn C – yellow (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Pale Yellow)
- Yarn D – white (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Soft White)
- Yarn E – green (example uses Big Twist Value: Forest Green)
- Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Baby Pink)
- Black embroidery floss
- 10mm black safety eyes (x2)
- Wire (example uses 14 Gauge Black Aluminum Wire by hildie & jo)
- Wire Cutters
- Polyester fiberfill
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Alternate Yarn Supplies:
Color Variation 2 (as seen on the left in cover photo):
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 5 colors:
- Yarn A – brown (example uses Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
- Yarn B – rust (example uses Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Ginger)
- Yarn C – yellow (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Saffron)
- Yarn D – light yellow (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Pale Yellow)
- Yarn E – green (example uses Big Twist Value: Light Green)
- Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Perfect Pink)
Terminology:
This free crochet daffodil pattern uses English (US) terminology:
- st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- FLO = front loop only
- BLO = back loop only
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.
Special Stitch Instructions | Free Crochet Daffodil Amigurumi
Please read through all special stitch instructions carefully before beginning your project, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.
This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.
Single Crochet:
This pattern uses a variation of the traditional single crochet stitch, sometimes referred to as the YU/YO (yarn under/yarn over) method.
Instead of yarning over before pulling through, this method utilizes a yarn under technique on the first pass of each stitch, as seen below.
Begin by inserting your hook into the next stitch, then yarn under (not over) as shown above. Pull through the stitch, then yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your single crochet.
Using the above technique produces a slightly tighter and stiffer fabric than traditional single crochet stitches. This method minimizes holes between stitches, improves shaping, and decreases stitch slanting.
This pattern will still work with the traditional technique of single crochet stitches, so choose what works best for you—just be wary that your project may result in having slight visual differences than those shown in examples if using the traditional method.
Invisible Decrease:
This pattern uses a variation of the single crochet decrease stitch, often called an invisible decrease. This method produces a tighter stitch that improves shaping and blends in more seamlessly with regular stitches.
Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch, then insert into the front loop only of the second stitch in the same way.
Yarn under (not over) as shown above and pull through both front loops. Yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your invisible decrease.
Joining Rounds:
Unless otherwise stated, each round in this pattern is joined at the end with a slip stitch into the first stitch of the round, followed by one or more chain stitches.
For a cleaner seam, and to ensure that these stitches are not accidentally worked into later, tighten both the slip stitch and chain as shown below.
Hold your working loop firmly on your hook and pull up with your hook until your slip stitch is tight. Then, pull back on your working tail until your loop is back to fitting snugly around your hook.
Repeat these steps with the following one or more chain stitches before your next round, as well.
Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Daffodil Amigurumi
Crochet Daffodil Center:
With yarn C (yellow), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 2).
Rnd 1: 9hdc into ring, sl st into 1st to join, ch 1 (9).
Rnd 2: 1sc into BLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (9).
Rnd 3: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (9).
For the next round, you will be working six modified picot-like stitches around the circumference of the daffodil center.
The picot stitches will consist of only 2 chains, however, to create a smaller embellishment.
Additionally, instead of connecting into your first chain (as done in a standard picot), you will instead work a slip stitch into the front loop only, from top to bottom, of the last single crochet you’ve worked.
Rnd 4: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, ch 2, sl st into FLO of last sc, 2sc into next st, ch 2, sl st into FLO of last sc] 3 times, join (12 + 6 picots).
Crochet Daffodil Petals:
With yarn D (white), chain 6.
Rnd 1: 3dc into 3rd ch from hook, 1dc into next st, 1hdc into next st, 2sc into next st, working into other side of ch sts, 1sc into next st, 1hdc into next st, 1dc into next st, 3dc into next st, sl st into 1st dc to join (13).
Fasten off yarn D and weave in tails. Set aside for now.
Repeat round 1, five more times, for a total of six petals.
Crochet Daffodil Leaves:
With yarn E (green), chain 13.
Rnd 1: sl st into 2nd ch from hook, sl st into each of next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, 1hdc into each of next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 2 sts, (1dc, ch 3, sl st into same st as dc) into next st, ch 3, working into other side of ch sts, 1dc into each of next 3 sts, 1hdc into each of next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, sl st into each of next 3 sts, sl st into 1st st to join (31).
Fasten off yarn E and weave in tails. Set aside for now.
Repeat round 1, one more time, for a total of two leaves.
Crochet Daffodil Stem:
The majority of this crochet daffodil stem is worked in rounds of only 4 stitches each.
While this creates a nice, slim stem for your flower, it may be challenging for some crocheters to work into.
If you have difficulty working into small rounds, you may instead replace rounds 4 to 13 with continuing rounds of 6 stitches each (1sc into each st around, join).
Choose whichever method works best for you!
With yarn E (green), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 9hdc into ring, sl st into 1st to join, ch 1 (9).
Rnd 2: 1sc into BLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (9).
Rnd 3: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 4: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 5: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 6 to 12 (7 rnds): repeat rnd 5 (4).
Rnd 13: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (6).
Retrieve your crochet daffodil leaves set aside earlier.
Align your first leaf so that both of the 3-chain sequences (on the opposite side of your pointy end) are parallel with your current round.
You will be working round 14 through both the chain stitches of the leaf and the current round of the stem to attach them together.
Optionally, if you have difficulty attaching the leaves in this way (especially the second leaf, which is trickier), you may instead sew them onto the stem afterwards with a length of yarn E.
If you choose to sew the leaves instead, simply replace round 14 and 15 with normal rounds (1sc into each st around, join).
Choose whichever method works best for you!
Rnd 14: 1sc into each st around of both leaf and stem together, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 15: 1sc into 4th ch of leaf and 1st st of stem together, 1sc into each of next 2 sts of both leaf and stem together, 1sc into 1st ch of leaf and 4th st of stem together, 1sc into each of next 2 sts of both leaf and stem together, join (6).
Fasten off yarn E and leave a short tail for tying.
If you skipped attaching the leaves during round 14 and 15, you may sew them on now.
Crochet Daffodil – Assembly:
Retrieve all remaining pieces of your crochet daffodil (1 center, 6 petals, 1 stem).
With a length of yarn D (white), sew your first 3 petals, evenly spaced, around the bottom of your daffodil center (where the front loops of round 1 remain).
Then, sew the remaining 3 petals, evenly spaced, around the top of the stem (again, where the front loops of round 1 remain).
Lastly, lay the daffodil center on top of the stem and rotate both pieces until the bottom 3 petals are visible between the gaps of the top 3 petals.
Sew both pieces together, secure with a knot, and weave in any remaining tails.
Set aside for now and continue to the crochet flower pot below.
Crochet Flower Pot – Rounds 1 to 12:
With yarn A (brown), leave a tail for sewing and chain 6. Slip stitch into the first chain to form a circle and chain 1.
Rnd 1: 2sc into each ch around, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 2: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 3: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 4: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 5: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join (36).
Fasten off yarn A and leave a long (~2 ft) tail for sewing.
Join yarn B (orange) by inserting your hook into the front loop only of the first stitch of your next round. Leaving a short tail for tying, pull up a loop of yarn B and ch 1.
Rnd 6: 1sc into FLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 7: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 8: in BLO of each st around, [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (42).
Rnd 9: 1sc into BLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (42).
Rnd 10: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (42).
Rnd 11: in BLO of each st around, [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 12: 1sc into FLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the directions below for sewing the rim of the crochet flower pot before continuing to round 13.
Crochet Flower Pot – Sewing the Rim:
Flip your work and locate the two rounds of loops (the back loops from round 5 and the back loops from round 11) that are leftover on the interior of your crochet flower pot.
With your long (~2 ft) tail of yarn A, leftover from fastening off after round 5, sew these two rounds together to seal off the rim of your pot.
Secure with a knot on the interior of your piece using the short tail of yarn B, leftover from beginning round 6, and trim any excess tail.
Remove the stitch marker from your working loop and continue to round 13 of your crochet flower pot below.
Crochet Flower Pot – Rounds 13 to 19:
Rnd 13: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 14: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 16 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (34).
Rnd 15: [1sc into each of next 15 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (32).
Rnd 16: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 14 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 17: [1sc into each of next 13 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (28).
Rnd 18: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 12 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (26).
Rnd 19: [1sc into each of next 11 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the directions below for adding the eyes, mouth, and blush onto your crochet flower pot before continuing to round 20.
Adding Eyes:
Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through the center of the front of your crochet flower pot (a quarter-turn before your joining seam).
The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 14 and 15 and should sit 6 stitches apart.
Adding Mouth:
Rotate your piece so that the beginning rounds face upwards and your last round faces downwards.
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a mouth using black embroidery floss.
The mouth should be embroidered over top of round 16 and be centered between the eyes. The mouth will be 2 stitches wide and 1 round tall.
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 2 stitches to the right from where you’ve inserted the left eye. Pull through and leave some tail for tying later.
Then, insert your needle again, 2 stitches to the right, and out again, 1 round down and 1 stitch to the left from where you’ve just inserted, and pull through.
Pass your needle up and underneath the horizontal strand you’ve just created and pull through. Then, insert your needle back into the same space as you’ve last exited from.
Pull your thread through and tug it down slightly until it forms a V-shape. Gently tie both ends together inside your piece, but take extra care not to pull the threads too tight!
Adding Blush:
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a blush line using pink embroidery floss or yarn next to each eye.
Each blush line should start 1 round down (between rounds 15 and 16) and 1 stitch outwards from where each eye was inserted, and span 1 stitch length outwards (away from the center of the face).
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 1 stitch outwards from where you’ve inserted the eye.
Pull through, leaving some tail inside for tying later. Then, insert your needle back in, 1 more stitch outwards.
If using medium weight yarn, you may skip ahead to tying both ends together on the inside of your piece.
If using embroidery floss, pass your needle back out through the same space as you’ve last exited from. Pull through and repeat both steps 4 more times.
On the next pass, insert your needle as normal but do not exit. Instead, pull through and remove your needle, then gently tie both ends together on the inside of your piece, taking extra care not to pull the threads too tight!
Crochet Flower Pot – Rounds 20 to 22:
Continue to the next round of your crochet flower pot and begin stuffing as you go.
Rnd 20: in BLO of each st around, [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 21: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 22: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 time, join (6).
Fasten off yarn B and leave a tail for sewing closed.
Sewing Closed:
To sew the bottom hole closed, pass the needle (front to back) through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight. Secure the tail with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.
Crochet Daffodil – Sewing Together:
Retrieve your daffodil and place the bottom of the stem over top of the center hole (round 1) of the crochet flower pot.
Using the tail of yarn A leftover from the beginning of the flower pot, sew around the entire circumference of the daffodil stem and flower pot hole to attach them together.
Secure with a knot to the end tail of the stem, trim any excess length, and weave in tails.
Finally, cut a length of wire to the height of your crochet daffodil, from the bottom of the flower pot to the top of stem.
Gently thread the wire between 2 stitches at the top of the stem until it reaches the bottom of your crochet flower pot and your daffodil is able to stand upright on its own.
Conclusion | Free Crochet Daffodil Amigurumi
And with that, you’re done the free crochet Daffodil Cutie pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out its five companion patterns in the Flower Cuties collection: the Tulip Cutie, the Daisy Cutie, the Carnation Cutie, the Sunflower Cutie, and the Rose Cutie!
You can also explore the Cutie Collections page and the Pocket Pets page for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!
If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!
And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!
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