In this FAQ for Pattern Help, you can find answers to, “How to read a Virkadia pattern?” including the meaning of (parenthesis), [brackets], and asterisks, as well as some tips on techniques, such as “How do I stop my stitches from slanting?”
I’m having trouble understanding part of a pattern/stitch, what do I do?
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How do I read a Virkadia Pattern?
All Virkadia patterns are written in English with U.S. terminology.
Please refer to the Terminology section of your specific pattern for a full list of all abbreviations used in each pattern.
Below are some examples of our specific style of pattern writing, which may be different from other patterns.
Number of stitches:
Our patterns are written so that most crochet stitch abbreviations are preceded by a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
The only exceptions to this rule are for slip stitches (”sl st,” will always mean 1 slip stitch), and chain stitches (which will be spaced).
Our writing style will always refer to an increase in the number-stitch form, rather than the common abbreviation, “inc.”
Many of our patterns include multiple amounts of increases (such as 2sc vs. 3sc), as well as increases with different types of stitches (such as 2sc vs. 2dc), sometimes even within the same round.
Using the number-stitch form allows us to cut out any confusion for you and keep our writing style uniform across all different scenarios.
Example:
“1sc into next st, 2sc into next st” = 1 single crochet into next 1 st, 2 single crochets into next 1 st (also known as an increase).
Parenthesis:
Some pattern instructions appear in (parenthesis), and are used to signify when a sequence of stitches are to be worked all into the same stitch or space together.
Parenthesis are used to cluster together one-off stitch sequences only. They are not to be mistaken for [brackets], which are used for separating out repeating sequences.
Stitches should always be worked in the same sequence as they appear in inside the parenthesis. Be careful—order does matter!
Example:
“(1sc, 1dc) into next st, 2sc into next st” = 1 single crochet then 1 double crochet into next 1 stitch, 2 single crochet into next 1 st.
Brackets:
Some pattern instructions appear in [brackets], followed by the instruction, “X times,” with X being a number.
Brackets separate a section of the pattern that should be repeated, from bracket to bracket, for the number of times denoted after the bracketed sequence.
Bracketed sequences should be repeated consecutively, and the full bracketed sequence should be fulfilled before each repeat.
[Brackets] may or may not also contain instructions in (parenthesis).
Brackets and parenthesis have separate meanings and functions. Take care not to get these symbols confused with one another!
Examples:
“[1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 2 times,” = 1 single crochet into next 1 stitch, 2 single crochet into next 1 st, 1 single crochet into next 1 stitch, 2 single crochet into next 1 st.
“[(1sc, 1dc) into next st, 2sc into next st] 2 times” = 1 single crochet then 1 double crochet into next 1 stitch, 2 single crochet into next 1 st, 1 single crochet then 1 double crochet into next 1 stitch, 2 single crochet into next 1 st.
Asterisks:
Although more rare, some of our patterns will also utilize instructions in asterisks, followed by an instruction later in the round to “repeat from * to * “X time(s),” with X being a number.
Asterisks most often appear in our patterns when there is a repeated sequence inside of a larger repeat, or when repeated sequences are separated by other pattern instructions in-between repeats.
Asterisks may or may not also contain instructions in [brackets] and/or (parenthesis).
Examples:
“1sc into next st, 2sc into next st rep from * to * 2 times” = 1 single crochet into next 1 stitch, 2 single crochet into next 1 st, 1 single crochet into next 1 stitch, 2 single crochet into next 1 st.
Stitch Counts:
Each row or round of instructions will always end with a number in (parenthesis).
This last number in parenthesis is not to be confused with parenthesis that contain a sequence of stitch instructions!
When appearing at the very end of a row or round of instructions, this number in parenthesis is denoting how many stitches you should have at the end of that row or round.
Take note, however, that your stitch count will never include your joining slip stitches or your turning chains.
Some other stitches that are hard to count may also appear separate in the stitch count, such as “(24 + 3 picot).”
Always make sure you are counting your stitches after each round! There is nothing worse that having to tear out 10 rounds of stitches because you didn’t realize a mistake in time!
How do I stop my stitches from slanting/my project from twisting?
Unfortunately—unless you work back and forth, or ambidextrously—no technique will ever eliminate stitch slanting completely. But that doesn’t mean it can’t be minimized with the right techniques!
The following techniques are just a few of the many suggestions out there, but these are the ones that I’ve personally tested and can vouch for!
The YU/YO method:
The first and best advice I can give would be to follow the YU/YO (yarn under, yarn over) method for your stitches, which is outlined in the Single Crochet instructions of our Stitch Tutorials.
The same method of yarning under on the first pass of each stitch can also be applied to other stitches, not just single crochets!
Overall, the YU/YO technique improves stitch slanting the most, in my personal experience.
Tension & hook size:
Experimenting with your tension and/or hook size may also help. Generally, I have found that the tighter my tension is, the straighter my stitches.
However, tighter tension can also strain your hands and wrist quite a bit—so you should definitely consider weighing the benefits of straighter stitches with the concerns for your hand health.
The YU/YU method:
The YU/YU (yarn under, yarn under) method may be an option for some crocheters, as well. This technique can provide even tighter stitches than the YU/YO method.
However, as with the suggestion of tighter tension, sometimes the small improvement in slanting is outweighed by the added strain on your hand health.
For this reason, I personally recommend trying the YU/YO method first, as I’ve found relatively minimal difference between the YU/YO vs. YU/YU method in terms of slanting, yet much more in regards to hand strain.
The Virkadia method:
This is a technique I invented to help with stitch slanting in very specific circumstances, and you may have already encountered it in some of our patterns (such as round 13 of the head in most Pocket Pets)
This method does not fix overall slanting, but rather recalibrates a specific round to push back against the slant, almost like a small reset.
This method can be used whenever you want the rest of your pattern to shift about 1 stitch length away from your dominant hand (i.e., to the left for righties), and during a round that does not begin or end with an increase or decrease already.
During your selected round that you want to shift, simply replace the first 2 stitches with, “sc2tog over next 2 sts,” and replace the last stitch with “2sc into next st.”
Please note, however, this method will not work for patterns with mid-round color changes!
Again, this technique is only intended for specific circumstances, such as for tall patterns with a lot of slanting that causes different elements (such as the top and bottom corners of the square face of a Pocket Pet) to not line up vertically.
Some trial-and-error testing may be necessary.