Dripping from this free crochet drip glaze pot amigurumi pattern are all the sunny scenes of sweet springtime—pollen riding along the warming breeze, seeds settling into new earthy homes, and new blooms awakening to the rising sun of the warmer seasons.
While you bask in the fresh floral breeze of sunny springtime, there’s no better way to celebrate the rebirth of the earth than with this free crochet drip glaze pot amigurumi pattern!
So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Drip Glaze Pot Cutie—compatible with our entire library of Flower Cuties!
Pattern Information | Free Crochet Drip Glaze Pot Amigurumi
This free crochet drip glaze pot amigurumi pattern has a difficulty rating of intermediate.
The finished dimensions are 2.25 inches (height) by 3.25 inches (width) by 3.25 inches (depth) before adding your chosen flower.*
You may also make your pieces larger or smaller by increasing or decreasing your yarn weight and/or hook size, respectively.
*Finished dimensions are calculated from a model using medium weight yarn, a size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook, the YU/YO method and the following gauge: 18 sc x 21 rows = 4 inches.
Supplies:
- Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 3 colors:
- Yarn A – brown (example uses Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
- Yarn B – blue (example uses Big Twist Value: Denim Blue)
- Yarn C – beige (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Buff)
- 10mm black safety eyes (x2)
- Black embroidery floss
- Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Perfect Pink)
- Polyester fiberfill
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Terminology:
This free crochet drip glaze pot amigurumi pattern uses English (US) terminology:
- st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
- FLO = front loop only
- BLO = back loop only
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
You can learn more about how to read Virkadia patterns on our Pattern Help FAQ page!
Special Stitch Instructions:
Please review our special stitch instructions on our Stitch Tutorials FAQ before beginning, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.
You can also watch our amigurumi techniques video tutorial for all of our tips and tricks for improving your project!
This free crochet drip glaze pot amigurumi pattern uses the following special stitch tutorials:
- Single Crochet (YU/YO Method)
- Invisible Decrease
- Joining Rounds
- Changing Colors Mid-Round
This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.
Changing Colors Mid-Round:
This free crochet drip glaze pot amigurumi pattern uses a mid-round color changing technique, as seen below, to create its wavy glaze edge.
This color changing method begins in the stitch immediately before the stitch that you want to be a different color. Begin this stitch as normal by inserting into the next stitch, yarning under, and pulling through.
Before the last pull through, drop your current color and instead grab the color you want to change to. Yarn over this new color and pull through both loops.
After dropping a color, you do not need to cut it off. Instead, you may allow your yarn to ‘float’ in the back, or interior, of your work until you are ready to pick it up again. Just be careful not to let these strands be pulled too tight when you pick them back up!
Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Drip Glaze Pot Amigurumi
Crochet Pot Dirt – Rounds 1 to 5:
With yarn A (brown), leave a tail for sewing and chain 6. Slip stitch into the first chain to form a circle and chain 1.
Rnd 1: 2sc into each ch around, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 2: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 3: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 4: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 5: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join (36).
Fasten off yarn A and leave a long (~2 ft) tail for sewing.
Crochet Drip Glaze Pot – Rounds 1 to 6:
Join yarn B (blue) by inserting your hook into the front loop only of the first stitch of your next round. Leaving a short tail for tying, pull up a loop of yarn B and ch 1.
Rnd 1: 1sc into FLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 2: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 3: in BLO of each st around, [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (42).
Rnd 4: 1sc into BLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (42).
Rnd 5: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 6: 1sc into FLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the directions below for sewing the rim of the crochet drip glaze pot before continuing to round 7.
Crochet Drip Glaze Pot – Sewing the Rim:
After rounds 1 to 6, you should now have a pot rim that rises up above your dirt, flares out for a round, then folds and comes back down in the opposite direction.
Now that the top rim of your crochet drip glaze pot is complete, we will be sealing off this rim for better shaping and rigidity.
This prevents your stuffing from distorting the top of your piece and gives the lip of your pot a clean and defined edge.
Flip your work and locate the two rounds of loops (the back loops from round 5 of the dirt and the back loops from round 5 of your pot) that are left over on the interior of your pot.
With your long (~2 ft) tail of yarn A, left over from fastening off after round 5 of the dirt, sew these two rounds together around the entire circumference of your pot to seal off the rim.
Then, secure with a knot on the interior of your piece by tying your yarn together with the short tail of yarn B, left over from beginning the pot rim, and trim any excess tail.
Remove the stitch marker from your working loop and continue to round 7 of your crochet drip glaze pot below.
Crochet Drip Glaze Pot – Rounds 7 to 10:
Retrieve yarn C (beige) and have it on standby. The next two rounds will use a mid-round color changing technique in order to create the wavy edge of the dripping glaze.
If you have not done so already, be sure to review the special instructions for changing colors, which can be found under the Special Stitch Instructions section of this pattern.
Rnd 7: [1sc into each of next 2 sts and change to yarn C, 1sc into each of next 2 sts and change to yarn B, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 8: [1sc into next st and change to yarn C, 1sc into each of next 4 sts and change to yarn B, 1sc into next st] 6 times, join and change to yarn C, ch 1 (36).
The rest of the crochet drip glaze pot will be worked with yarn C only. However, do not cut yarn B just yet!
Leave the drip glaze transition as is, for now, as we will revisit this section after round 10, in order to further emphasize the wavy edge of your color changes.
Rnd 9: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 10: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the directions below for emphasizing the drip glaze before continuing to round 11.
Emphasizing Drip Glaze Edge:
Using the tail of yarn B that was left still attached after completing round 8, we will now be accentuating the border of the wavy color change by adding a round of slip stitches across the surface of your piece.
To begin, locate the very first stitch that you worked in round 9. This stitch should be in yarn C, and the stitch immediately beneath it should be in yarn B.
Next, insert your hook beneath the first stitch of round 9, into the same space where the stitch itself had been worked into.
Find your tail of yarn B that is still attached to your piece on the interior of your pot, yarn over, and pull a loop of yarn B through the surface of your piece.
Then, reinsert your hook back through the surface of your pot, 1 stitch over and 1 stitch down. Again, the stitch above your hook should be in yarn C, and the stitch below should be in yarn B.
Yarn over with yarn B on the interior of your pot, then pull through both the surface of your pot and the loop on your hook to complete your first slip stitch.
Again, reinsert your hook 1 stitch over and 1 stitch downwards. Yarn over and pull through both the surface of your crochet and the loop on your hook to complete your second slip stitch.
Using the reference above, continue to work slip stitches to trace the wavy edge of your color changes around the circumference of your crochet drip glaze pot.
When inserting your hook into a new space, always make sure that there is a stitch in yarn C directly above your hook, and a stitch in yarn B directly below.
Additionally, take care to keep your working yarn on the back side, or interior, of your piece, and your active loop on the front side, or exterior, as you are completing each slip stitch.
When you reach the end of your round, you will be working your last slip stitch into the space that you pulled your very first loop up from at the beginning of the round.
When you are finished, fasten off yarn B and leave a tail for sewing. With a needle, pass the tail of yarn B beneath both loops of your very first slip stitch of the round.
Then, sew the rest of your tail through the center of the last slip stitch you’ve made, in the same space that the yarn last exited your piece from.
Finally, tie your tail together with the beginning tail of yarn C, left over from round 7, on the inside of your piece. After knotting, trim any excess length.
Crochet Drip Glaze Pot – Rounds 11 to 12:
Remove your stitch marker and continue to the next round.
Rnd 11: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 12: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the instructions for adding the eyes, mouth, and blush onto your crochet drip glaze pot before continuing to round 13.
Adding Eyes:
Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through the center of the front of your pot (on the opposite side from your joining seam).
For best results, align each eye so that it sits in the center between two of the drip glaze waves.
The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 9 and 10 and should sit 6 stitches apart, from the center of one eye to the other.
Adding Mouth:
Rotate your piece so that the beginning rounds face upwards and your last round faces downwards.
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a mouth using black embroidery floss.
The mouth should be embroidered over top of round 11 and be centered between the eyes. The mouth will be 2 stitches wide and 1 round tall.
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 2 stitches to the right from where you’ve inserted the left eye. Pull through and leave some tail for tying later.
Then, insert your needle again, 2 stitches to the right, and out again, 1 round down and 1 stitch to the left from where you’ve just inserted, and pull through.
Pass your needle up and underneath the horizontal strand you’ve just created and pull through. Then, insert your needle back into the same space as you’ve last exited from.
Pull your thread through and tug it down slightly until it forms a V-shape. Gently tie both ends together inside your piece, but take extra care not to pull the threads too tight!
Adding Blush:
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a blush line using pink embroidery floss or yarn next to each eye.
Each blush line should start 1 round down (between rounds 10 and 11) and 1 stitch outwards from where each eye was inserted, and span 1 stitch length outwards (away from the center of the face).
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 1 stitch outwards from where you’ve inserted the eye.
Pull through, leaving some tail inside for tying later. Then, insert your needle back in, 1 more stitch outwards.
If using medium weight yarn, you may skip ahead to tying both ends together on the inside of your piece.
If using embroidery floss, pass your needle back out through the same space as you’ve last exited from. Pull through and repeat both steps 4 more times.
On the next pass, insert your needle as normal but do not exit. Instead, pull through and remove your needle, then gently tie both ends together on the inside of your piece, taking extra care not to pull the threads too tight!
Crochet Drip Glaze Pot – Rounds 13 to 18:
Remove your stitch marker and continue to the next round. Begin stuffing as you go.
Rnd 13: [1sc into each of next 10 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (33).
Rnd 14: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 9 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 15: in BLO of each st around, [1sc into each of next 3 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 16: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 17: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 18: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (6).
Fasten off yarn C and leave a tail for sewing closed.
Sewing Closed:
To sew the bottom hole closed, pass the needle, from front to back, through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight.
Secure your sewing with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.
Conclusion | Free Crochet Drip Glaze Pot Amigurumi
And with that, you’re done the free crochet Drip Glaze Pot Cutie pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out our full library of Flower Cuties, all of which are compatible with this pattern!
You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!
If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!
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