Blooming from this free crochet rose pattern are all the sunny scenes of sweet springtime—parks polka-dotted with colorful picnic blankets, the bright sun climbing higher and higher into the sky each day, and the scents of fresh soil and cut grass mixing on a cool breeze.
While you bask in the fresh floral breeze of sunny springtime, there’s no better way to celebrate the rebirth of the earth than with this free rose amigurumi pattern!
So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Rose Cutie, part six of six in the Flower Cuties collection!
Pattern Information | Free Crochet Rose Amigurumi
Supplies:
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- Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 5 colors:
- Yarn A – brown (example uses Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
- Yarn B – orange (example uses Caron One Pound: Faded Brick)
- Yarn C – red (example uses Mainstays: Red V)
- Yarn D – green (example uses Big Twist Value: Forest Green)
- Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Baby Pink)
- Black embroidery floss
- 10mm black safety eyes (x2)
- Wire (example uses 14 Gauge Black Aluminum Wire by hildie & jo)
- Wire Cutters
- Polyester fiberfill
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Alternate Yarn Supplies:
Color Variation 2 (as seen on the left in cover photo):
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 5 colors:
- Yarn A – brown (example uses Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
- Yarn B – rust (example uses Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Ginger)
- Yarn C – pink (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Perfect Pink)
- Yarn D – green (example uses Big Twist Value: Light Green)
- Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Perfect Pink)
Terminology:
This free crochet rose pattern uses English (US) terminology:
- st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- tr = treble crochet
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.
Special Stitch Instructions | Free Crochet Rose Amigurumi
Please read through all special stitch instructions carefully before beginning your project, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.
This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.
Single Crochet:
This pattern uses a variation of the traditional single crochet stitch, sometimes referred to as the YU/YO (yarn under/yarn over) method.
Instead of yarning over before pulling through, this method utilizes a yarn under technique on the first pass of each stitch, as seen below.
Begin by inserting your hook into the next stitch, then yarn under (not over) as shown above. Pull through the stitch, then yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your single crochet.
Using the above technique produces a slightly tighter and stiffer fabric than traditional single crochet stitches. This method minimizes holes between stitches, improves shaping, and decreases stitch slanting.
This pattern will still work with the traditional technique of single crochet stitches, so choose what works best for you—just be wary that your project may result in having slight visual differences than those shown in examples if using the traditional method.
Invisible Decrease:
This pattern uses a variation of the single crochet decrease stitch, often called an invisible decrease. This method produces a tighter stitch that improves shaping and blends in more seamlessly with regular stitches.
Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch, then insert into the front loop only of the second stitch in the same way.
Yarn under (not over) as shown above and pull through both front loops. Yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your invisible decrease.
Joining Rounds:
Unless otherwise stated, each round in this pattern is joined at the end with a slip stitch into the first stitch of the round, followed by one or more chain stitches.
For a cleaner seam, and to ensure that these stitches are not accidentally worked into later, tighten both the slip stitch and chain as shown below.
Hold your working loop firmly on your hook and pull up with your hook until your slip stitch is tight. Then, pull back on your working tail until your loop is back to fitting snugly around your hook.
Repeat these steps with the following one or more chain stitches before your next round, as well.
Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Rose Amigurumi
Crochet Rose Leaves:
With yarn D (green), chain 8.
Rnd 1: 1dc into 3rd ch from hook, 2tr into next st, 1dc into next st, 1hdc into next st, 1sc into next st, sl st into next st, ch 1, working into other side of ch sts, sl st into next st, 1sc into next st, 1hdc into next st, 1dc into next st, 2tr into next st, 1dc into next st, ch 2, sl st into same st as last dc (20).
Fasten off yarn D and weave in tails. Set aside for now.
Repeat round 1, one more time, for a total of two leaves.
Crochet Rose Petals:
With yarn C (red), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 4: 1sc into each of next 12 sts, 1hdc into each of next 3 sts, ch 1, sl st into same st as last hdc, sl st into next st, ch 1, 1hdc into same st as last sl st, 1hdc into each of next 2 sts, join (22).
Fasten off yarn C and leave a tail for sewing. Set aside for now.
Repeat rounds 1 to 4 to create a second crochet rose petal. Then, retrieve your first petal you’ve set aside earlier.
With the notched end (the side with the half double crochets) of both petals facing upwards, align both petals side by side so that the end tail of your last petal is facing towards the petal you will be sewing onto.
Then, using the end tail from the last petal you’ve created, sew three stitches of both petals together to connect them.
For the petal you’ve just made, you will be sewing through the first 3 stitches of round 4. For the petal you are sewing onto, you’ll be sewing through the 10th, 11th, and 12th stitches of round 4, or the 3 stitches immediately preceding the half double crochets.
For best results, try sewing through the back loops only on the petal that you are sewing onto. This will create a more distinguishable edge between your petals.
Lastly, secure your sewing with a knot on the back of your petal and weave in any excess tail.
Repeat all steps to create five more petals, attaching them in the same way, to create a string of seven petals total.
Be sure not to cut or use the end tail leftover on your very first petal, which should be the furthest petal towards your non-dominant hand. You will be using this tail to sew the rose together, later.
Crochet Rose Stem:
Rotate your string of petals around so that the notched sides now face downwards. Double-check that the right sides of your petals are facing you before beginning.
Your first petal, with the end tail still remaining, should be on the same side as your dominant hand.
You will now be working your first round of the stem across the bottom of your first three petals. Be careful to work into the bottom six stitches of each petal only!
Join yarn D (green) by inserting your hook into the 4th stitch of round 4 of your very first petal. Leaving a short tail for tying, pull up a loop of yarn D and ch 1.
Begin round 1 in the same stitch as you’ve joined yarn D.
Rnd 1: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, [1sc into 1st st of next petal, sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times (12).
Beginning with the furthest petal on the opposite side as where you’ve begun round 1 of the stem, gently roll up your petals into a layered cylinder.
The wrong sides of each petal should be facing inwards toward the center of the roll, and the first and last stitches of round 1 of the stem should now be touching.
Keeping a firm grip on your rolled petals, slip stitch into the first stitch of round 1 of the stem to join the round and chain 1. Remove your hook and secure your working loop with a stitch marker.
Finally, using the last remaining end tail from your petals, sew through the entire roll of petals to ensure that they do not unravel.
For best results, try passing your needle through the whole roll to the opposite side, then reinsert your needle into an adjacent stitch and pass your tail through again, aiming for the bottom of your petals (inside round 1 of your stem).
You may then secure your tail with a knot to the beginning tail of round 1 of your stem, inside your piece, and trim any excess length.
Remove your stitch marker and continue to round 2.
The remainder of this crochet rose stem is worked mainly in rounds of only 4 stitches each.
While this creates a nice, slim stem for your flower, it may be challenging for some crocheters to work into.
If you have difficulty working into small rounds, you may instead replace rounds 3 to 14 with continuing rounds of 6 stitches each (1sc into each st around, join).
Choose whichever method works best for you!
Rnd 2: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 4: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 5: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 6: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Retrieve your crochet rose leaves that you’ve set aside earlier.
Align your first leaf so that the side with your chain stitches (the opposite side from your pointy end) is parallel and even with your current round.
Make sure that the ‘wrong side,’ or back side, of your stitches on the leaf are facing you. You will be working one stitch into the center end of the leaf (where your last slip stitch was worked into) to attach your leaf to the stem.
Optionally, if you find this method difficult, you may instead replace rounds 7 and 11 with normal rounds (1sc into each st around, join, ch 1) and sew your leaves on afterwards with a length of yarn D.
Choose whichever method works best for you!
Rnd 7: 1sc into next, 1sc into 1st leaf and next st of stem together, 1sc into each of next 2 sts, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 8: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 9: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 10: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 11: 1sc into each of next 3 sts, 1sc into 2nd leaf and next st of stem together, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 12: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 13: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 14: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join (6).
Fasten off yarn D and leave a short tail for tying.
Crochet Flower Pot – Rounds 1 to 12:
With yarn A (brown), leave a tail for sewing and chain 6. Slip stitch into the first chain to form a circle and chain 1.
Rnd 1: 2sc into each ch around, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 2: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 3: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 4: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 5: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join (36).
Fasten off yarn A and leave a long (~2 ft) tail for sewing.
Join yarn B (orange) by inserting your hook into the front loop only of the first stitch of your next round. Leaving a short tail for tying, pull up a loop of yarn B and ch 1.
Rnd 6: 1sc into FLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 7: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 8: in BLO of each st around, [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (42).
Rnd 9: 1sc into BLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (42).
Rnd 10: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (42).
Rnd 11: in BLO of each st around, [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 12: 1sc into FLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the directions below for sewing the rim of the crochet flower pot before continuing to round 13.
Crochet Flower Pot – Sewing the Rim:
Flip your work and locate the two rounds of loops (the back loops from round 5 and the back loops from round 11) that are leftover on the interior of your crochet flower pot.
With your long (~2 ft) tail of yarn A, leftover from fastening off after round 5, sew these two rounds together to seal off the rim of your pot.
Secure with a knot on the interior of your piece using the short tail of yarn B, leftover from beginning round 6, and trim any excess tail.
Remove the stitch marker from your working loop and continue to round 13 of your crochet flower pot below.
Crochet Flower Pot – Rounds 13 to 19:
Rnd 13: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 14: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 16 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (34).
Rnd 15: [1sc into each of next 15 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (32).
Rnd 16: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 14 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 17: [1sc into each of next 13 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (28).
Rnd 18: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 12 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (26).
Rnd 19: [1sc into each of next 11 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the directions below for adding the eyes, mouth, and blush onto your crochet flower pot before continuing to round 20.
Adding Eyes:
Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through the center of the front of your crochet flower pot (a quarter-turn before your joining seam).
The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 14 and 15 and should sit 6 stitches apart.
Adding Mouth:
Rotate your piece so that the beginning rounds face upwards and your last round faces downwards.
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a mouth using black embroidery floss.
The mouth should be embroidered over top of round 16 and be centered between the eyes. The mouth will be 2 stitches wide and 1 round tall.
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 2 stitches to the right from where you’ve inserted the left eye. Pull through and leave some tail for tying later.
Then, insert your needle again, 2 stitches to the right, and out again, 1 round down and 1 stitch to the left from where you’ve just inserted, and pull through.
Pass your needle up and underneath the horizontal strand you’ve just created and pull through. Then, insert your needle back into the same space as you’ve last exited from.
Pull your thread through and tug it down slightly until it forms a V-shape. Gently tie both ends together inside your piece, but take extra care not to pull the threads too tight!
Adding Blush:
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a blush line using pink embroidery floss or yarn next to each eye.
Each blush line should start 1 round down (between rounds 15 and 16) and 1 stitch outwards from where each eye was inserted, and span 1 stitch length outwards (away from the center of the face).
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 1 stitch outwards from where you’ve inserted the eye.
Pull through, leaving some tail inside for tying later. Then, insert your needle back in, 1 more stitch outwards.
If using medium weight yarn, you may skip ahead to tying both ends together on the inside of your piece.
If using embroidery floss, pass your needle back out through the same space as you’ve last exited from. Pull through and repeat both steps 4 more times.
On the next pass, insert your needle as normal but do not exit. Instead, pull through and remove your needle, then gently tie both ends together on the inside of your piece, taking extra care not to pull the threads too tight!
Crochet Flower Pot – Rounds 20 to 22:
Continue to the next round of your crochet flower pot and begin stuffing as you go.
Rnd 20: in BLO of each st around, [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 21: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 22: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 time, join (6).
Fasten off yarn B and leave a tail for sewing closed.
Sewing Closed:
To sew the bottom hole closed, pass the needle (front to back) through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight. Secure the tail with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.
Crochet Rose – Sewing Together:
Retrieve your rose and place the bottom of the stem over top of the center hole (round 1) of the crochet flower pot.
Using the tail of yarn A leftover from the beginning of the flower pot, sew around the entire circumference of the rose stem and flower pot hole to attach them together.
Secure with a knot to the end tail of the stem, trim any excess length, and weave in tails.
Finally, cut a length of wire to the height of your crochet rose, from the bottom of the flower pot to the top of stem.
Gently thread the wire between 2 stitches at the top of the stem until it reaches the bottom of your crochet flower pot and your rose is able to stand upright on its own.
Conclusion | Free Crochet Rose Amigurumi
And with that, you’re done the free crochet Rose Cutie pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out its five companion patterns in the Flower Cuties collection: the Daffodil Cutie, the Tulip Cutie, the Daisy Cutie, the Carnation Cutie, and the Sunflower Cutie!
You can also explore the Cutie Collections page and the Pocket Pets page for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!
If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!
And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!
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