Sautéed into this free crochet mushroom amigurumi pattern are all the woodsy wonders of autumn evenings—the earthy scent of decaying leaves and damp dirt beneath your feet, the distant calls of a migrating bird’s farewell, and the cool plush embrace of a sweater being welcomed back from the dark recesses of a closet.
While the hearty harvest soups simmer on the stove, how better to pass the time than with this free crochet mushroom amigurumi pattern!
So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Mushroom Cutie, part two of three in the Autumn Cuties collection!
Pattern Information | Free Crochet Mushroom Amigurumi
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Supplies:
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- Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 2 colors:
- Yarn A – red (uses Red Heart Super Saver: Burgundy)
- Yarn B – white (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Aran)
- 10mm black safety eyes (x2)
- Black embroidery floss
- Pink embroidery floss (example uses DMC 963 Light Dusty Rose) or pink yarn
- Polyester fiberfill
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Alternate Yarn Supplies:
Color Variation 2 (as seen on the left in cover photo):
All supplies remain the same, except for the following replacements:
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 2 colors:
- Yarn A – orange (uses Red Heart Super Saver: Coral)
- Yarn B – white (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Aran)
Color Variation 3 (as seen in the photo below):
All supplies remain the same, except for the following replacements:
- Super Bulky (6) weight yarn in 2 colors:
- Yarn A – red (example uses Premier Parfait Chunky: Poppy)
- Yarn B – white (example uses Premier Parfait Chunky: Cream)
- 14mm black safety eyes (x2)
- Pink yarn (example uses Premier Parfait Chunky: Pink Lemonade)
- Black embroidery floss (doubled)
Terminology:
This free crochet mushroom pattern uses English (US) terminology:
- st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
- FLO = front loop only
- BLO = back loop only
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.
Special Stitch Instructions | Free Crochet Mushroom Amigurumi
Please read through all special stitch instructions carefully before beginning your project, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.
This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.
Single Crochet:
This pattern uses a variation of the traditional single crochet stitch, sometimes referred to as the YU/YO (yarn under/yarn over) method.
Instead of yarning over before pulling through, this method utilizes a yarn under technique on the first pass of each stitch, as seen below.
Begin by inserting your hook into the next stitch, then yarn under (not over) as shown above. Pull through the stitch, then yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your single crochet.
Using the above technique produces a slightly tighter and stiffer fabric than traditional single crochet stitches. This method minimizes holes between stitches, improves shaping, and decreases stitch slanting.
This pattern will still work with the traditional technique of single crochet stitches, so choose what works best for you—just be wary that your project may result in having slight visual differences than those shown in examples if using the traditional method.
Invisible Decrease:
This pattern uses a variation of the single crochet decrease stitch, often called an invisible decrease. This method produces a tighter stitch that improves shaping and blends in more seamlessly with regular stitches.
Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch, then insert into the front loop only of the second stitch in the same way.
Yarn under (not over) as shown above and pull through both front loops. Yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your invisible decrease.
Joining Rounds:
Unless otherwise stated, each round in this pattern is joined at the end with a slip stitch into the first stitch of the round, followed by one or more chain stitches.
For a cleaner seam, and to ensure that these stitches are not accidentally worked into later, tighten both the slip stitch and chain as shown below.
Hold your working loop firmly on your hook and pull up with your hook until your slip stitch is tight. Then, pull back on your working tail until your loop is back to fitting snugly around your hook.
Repeat these steps with the following one or more chain stitches before your next round, as well.
Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Mushroom Amigurumi
Crochet Mushroom Cap – Rounds 1 to 15:
With yarn A (red), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 4: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (21).
Rnd 5: [1sc into each of next 6 sts, 2sc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 6: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 7 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (27).
Rnd 7: [1sc into each of next 8 sts, 2sc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 8: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 9: [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (42).
Rnd 10: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 6 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (48).
Rnd 11: [1sc into each of next 7 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (54).
Rnd 12: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (54).
Rnd 13: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (54).
Rnd 14: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (54).
Rnd 15: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 7 sts] 6 times , join (48).
Fasten off and leave a short tail for tying. Follow the instructions for adding the mushroom cap spots before continuing.
Crochet Mushroom Cap – Adding Spots
Using a length of yarn B (white) and a needle, follow the instructions below to add as many spots as desired to your mushroom cap.
You may space your spots evenly around your cap to create a uniform pattern, or add them randomly for a design that is completely unique to your mushroom. Choose whichever method works best for you!
The example crochet mushroom has a total of 18 spots embroidered around the cap. Rounds 3, 6, 8, 10, 12, and 13 each have 3 spots that are evenly spaced around the round. Each new round of spots is staggered with the round of spots that came before it.
To embroider a spot onto your mushroom, begin by picking your target single crochet stitch that you would like to turn into a spot.
With your length of yarn B (white), leave a short tail inside your cap for tying later and embroider a square box shape around your target stitch, as seen below.
Next, embroider an X-shape over top of the box you’ve just created. Repeat this X-shape one or more times until all gaps are filled in, or the spot is as bulky as you desire.
Then, tie both ends of your strand together on the inside of your cap to secure your embroidery and cut any excess length.
Repeat these steps around the surface of your crochet mushroom cap until you have as many spots as you desire. Then, continue to the mushroom stalk.
Crochet Mushroom Stalk – Rounds 16 to 28:
Join yarn B (white) by inserting your hook into the back loop only of the first stitch of the next round. Pull up a loop of yarn B and chain 1.
Tie the tails of both yarn A and yarn B together on the interior of your piece to secure your ends.
Rnd 16: in BLO of each st around, [1sc into each of next 6 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (42).
Rnd 17: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 18: [1sc into each of next 4 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 19: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 20: 1sc into FLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 21: [1sc into each of next 7 sts, 2sc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (27).
Rnd 22: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 8 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 23: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 24: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 25: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 26: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 27: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 28: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (30).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the instructions for adding the eyes, mouth, and blush before continuing.
Adding Eyes:
Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through the front of your piece (on the opposite side from your joining seam).
The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 23 and 24 and should sit 6 stitches apart, from the center of one eye to the center of the other.
Adding Mouth:
Rotate your piece so that the beginning rounds face upwards and your last round faces downwards.
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a mouth using black embroidery floss.
The mouth should be embroidered over top of round 25 and be centered between the eyes. The mouth will be 2 stitches wide and 1 round tall.
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 2 stitches to the right from where you’ve inserted the left eye. Pull through and leave some tail for tying later.
Then, insert your needle again, 2 stitches to the right, and out again, 1 round down and 1 stitch to the left from where you’ve just inserted, and pull through.
Pass your needle up and underneath the horizontal strand you’ve just created and pull through. Then, insert your needle back into the same space as you’ve last exited from.
Pull your thread through and tug it down slightly until it forms a V-shape. Gently tie both ends together inside your piece.
Take extra care as you tie your ends not to pull the threads too tight! After finishing your knot, trim any excess length.
Adding Blush:
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a blush line using pink embroidery floss or yarn next to each eye.
Each blush line should start 1 round down (between rounds 24 and 25) and 1 stitch outwards from where each eye was inserted, and span 1 stitch length outwards (away from the center of the face).
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 1 stitch outwards from where you’ve inserted the eye.
Pull through, leaving some tail inside for tying later. Then, insert your needle back in, 1 more stitch outwards.
If using yarn, you may skip ahead to tying both ends together on the inside of your piece.
If using embroidery floss, pass your needle back out through the same space as you’ve last exited from and pull through. Reinsert your needle, again, 1 stitch outwards in the same place as before.
Repeat these last steps 3 more times, or until you are satisfied with the size of your blush. Then, gently tie both ends together on the inside of your piece.
Take extra care as you tie your ends not to pull the threads too tight! After finishing your knot, trim any excess length.
Crochet Mushroom Cap – Shaping:
Lightly stuff the mushroom cap before continuing.
As you add stuffing, you may notice the cap losing some of its shape. To avoid this, try not to overstuff the cap.
Optional: If you are unhappy with the change in shape, you may correct it by sewing a length of yarn B (white) between the base of the cap (between rounds 19 and 20) and the spots around the cap, as shown below.
To do this, begin by inserting your needle anywhere around the base of the cap, between rounds 19 and 20, leaving a tail on the outside of your mushroom for tying later.
Next, pass your needle up through your cap and exit out of the top, right next to any of the spots embroidered in the middle of your cap (for best results, aim for spots that are located between rounds 6 and 8).
Then, reinsert your needle back into the cap, on the other side of the spot, and pass it back down to the base of the cap, anywhere between rounds 18 and 19.
Again, reinsert your needle, one stitch to either side, staying between rounds 18 and 19, and pass it back up to the top, aiming for a different spot in the middle of the cap.
Continue working back and forth between the base of the cap and the middle spots, tugging slightly as you go to shape your mushroom.
To finish off your shaping, pass your needle back to where you began, exiting from the exact same space as where you first entered.
Tie your beginning and end tails together to secure your sewing, then use your needle to pull both tails into the inside of your mushroom, tugging your knot into the inside, as well. Cut any excess length.
Crochet Mushroom Stalk – Rounds 29 to 32:
Continue to next round and continue stuffing as you go.
Rnd 29: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 30: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 31: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 32: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join (6).
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing closed.
Sewing Closed:
To sew the bottom hole closed, pass the needle, from front to back, through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight. Secure your sewing with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.
Conclusion | Free Crochet Mushroom Amigurumi
And with that, you’re done the free crochet Mushroom Cutie pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out its two companion patterns in the Autumn Cuties collection: the Pumpkin Cutie and the Acorn Cutie!
You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!
If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!
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