Blooming from this free crochet rose amigurumi pattern are all the sunny scenes of sweet springtime—parks polka-dotted with colorful picnic blankets, the bright sun climbing higher and higher into the sky each day, and the scents of fresh soil and cut grass mixing on a cool breeze.
While you bask in the fresh floral breeze of sunny springtime, there’s no better way to celebrate the rebirth of the earth than with this free crochet rose amigurumi pattern!

So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Rose Cutie, part 6 of 9 in the Flower Cuties collection!
Pattern Information | Free Crochet Rose Amigurumi
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This free crochet rose amigurumi pattern has a difficulty rating of intermediate.
The finished dimensions are 8 inches (height) by 3.25 inches (width) by 3.25 inches (depth).*
You may also make your pieces larger or smaller by increasing or decreasing your yarn weight and/or hook size, respectively.
*Finished dimensions are calculated from a model using medium weight yarn, a size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook, the YU/YO method and the following gauge: 18 sc x 21 rows = 4 inches.
Supplies:
- Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 4 colors:
- Yarn A – green (example uses Big Twist Value: Forest Green)
- Yarn B – red (Mainstays: Red V)
- Yarn C – brown (Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
- Yarn D – orange (Caron One Pound: Faded Brick)
- Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn (Red Heart Super Saver: Baby Pink)
- Black embroidery floss
- 10 mm black safety eyes (x2)
- Wire (14 Gauge Black Aluminum Wire by hildie & jo)
- Wire Cutters
- Polyester fiberfill
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Alternate Yarn Supplies:
Color Variation 2 (as seen on the left in cover photo):
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 4 colors:
- Yarn A – green (example uses Big Twist Value: Light Green)
- Yarn B – pink (Red Heart Super Saver: Perfect Pink)
- Yarn C – brown (Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
- Yarn D – rust (Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Ginger)
- Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn (Red Heart Super Saver: Perfect Pink)

Terminology:
This free crochet rose amigurumi pattern uses English (US) terminology:
- st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- tr = treble crochet
- FLO = front loop only
- BLO = back loop only
- beg = beginning
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
You can learn more about how to read Virkadia patterns on our Pattern Help FAQ page!
Special Stitch Instructions:
Please review our special stitch instructions on our Stitch Tutorials FAQ before beginning, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.
You can also watch our amigurumi techniques video tutorial for all of our tips and tricks for improving your project!
This free crochet rose amigurumi pattern uses the following special stitch tutorials:
- Single Crochet (YU/YO Method)
- Invisible Decrease
- Joining Rounds
This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.
Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Rose Amigurumi
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And don’t forget to add your project on Ravelry!
Crochet Rose Leaves:
With yarn A (green), chain 8.
Rnd 1: 1dc into 3rd ch from hook, 2tr into next st, 1dc into next st, 1hdc into next st, 1sc into next st, sl st into next st, ch 1, working into other side of ch sts, sl st into next st, 1sc into next st, 1hdc into next st, 1dc into next st, 2tr into next st, 1dc into next st, ch 2, sl st into same st as last dc (20).

Fasten off yarn A and weave in tails. Set aside for now.
Repeat round 1, one more time, for a total of two leaves. Then, continue to round 1 of your first crochet rose petal below.
Crochet Rose Petals:
With yarn B (red), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 4: 1sc into each of next 12 sts, 1hdc into each of next 3 sts, ch 1, sl st into same st as last hdc, sl st into next st, ch 1, 1hdc into same st as last sl st, 1hdc into each of next 2 sts, join (22).
Fasten off yarn B and leave a tail for sewing. Set aside for now. This will be petal #1.

Repeat rounds 1 to 4 to create a second crochet rose petal. This will be petal #2.
Retrieve petal #1 that you've set aside earlier. Then, align both petals so that the notched end, or the side with the half double crochets, is facing upwards, like seen in the image above.
Place the two petals side by side so that the end tail on the side of petal #1 is between both petals. Additionally, make sure that the front side of each petal is facing towards you.
Then, using the end tail from petal #1, sew a total of three stitches from each petal together to connect their side edges.
For petal #1, you will be sewing through the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd stitches of round 4, traveling downwards toward the bottom of the petal.
For petal #2, you will be sewing through the 12th, 11th, and 10th stitches of round 4, or the 3 stitches immediately preceding the half double crochets.
For best results, try sewing through the back loops only on petal #2, as this will create a more defined edge between your petals.
To finish, secure your sewing with a knot on the back side of your petal and weave in any excess tail.
Repeat all steps to create five more petals, attaching them in the same way as petals #1 and #2, to create a string of seven petals total.
Be sure not to cut or use the end tail that is left over on your last petal, which should be the furthest petal away from your dominant hand. You will be using this tail to sew the rose together, later.

Crochet Rose Stem:
Rotate your string of petals around so that the notched sides now face downward. Double-check that the front sides of your petals are facing you before continuing.
Your last petal, with the end tail still remaining, should now be on the same side as your dominant hand. You will begin your next round in this last petal.
The first round of the stem will be worked across the bottom of your string of petals, into the bottom 6 stitches of each of your first 3 petals only.
Join yarn A (green) by inserting your hook into the 4th stitch of round 4 of your last petal. Leaving a short tail for tying, pull up a loop of yarn A and ch 1.
Begin round 1 below in the same stitch as where you've just joined yarn A.
Rnd 1: [1sc into 4th st of next petal, sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 3 times (12).
Beginning with the furthest petal, on the opposite side from where you began round 1 of the stem, gently roll up your petals into a layered cylinder.
The wrong sides of each petal should be facing inwards toward the center of the roll, and the first and last stitches of round 1 of the stem should now be touching.
Keeping a firm grip on your rolled petals so that they don't come undone, slip stitch into the first stitch of round 1 of the stem to join the round and chain 1.
Then, carefully remove your hook and secure your working loop with a stitch marker.
Finally, using the last remaining end tail from your petals, sew straight through the entire roll of petals to secure them together.
For best results, try passing your needle through the whole roll to the opposite side, then reinsert your needle into an adjacent stitch and pass your tail through again, aiming for the bottom of your petals (inside round 1 of your stem).
You may then secure your tail with a knot to the beginning tail of round 1 of your stem, inside your piece, and trim any excess length.

Remove your stitch marker and continue to round 2.
Rnd 2: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (6).
The remainder of this crochet rose stem is worked mainly in rounds of only 4 stitches each.
While this creates a nice, slim stem for your flower, it may be challenging for some crocheters to work into.
If you have difficulty working into small rounds, you may instead replace rounds 3 to 14 with continuing rounds of 6 stitches each (1sc into each st around, join, ch 1).
Choose whichever method works best for you!
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 4: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 5: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 6: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Retrieve your crochet rose leaves that you’ve set aside earlier.
Align your first leaf so that the side with your 2-chain sequences, on the opposite side from your pointy end, is laying in front of and is parallel with your current round.
You will be working one stitch into the center end of each leaf (where your last slip stitch was worked into) and your stem simultaneously, in order to attach them together.
Optionally, if you find this method difficult, you may instead replace rounds 7 and 11 with normal rounds (1sc into each st around, join, ch 1), then sew your leaves on afterwards with a length of yarn A.

Rnd 7: 1sc into next st of stem, 1sc into 1st leaf and next st of stem together, 1sc into each of next 2 sts of stem, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 8: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 9: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 10: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 11: 1sc into each of next 3 sts of stem, 1sc into 2nd leaf and next st of stem together, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 12: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 13: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 14: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join (6).
Fasten off yarn A and leave a short tail for tying.
Crochet Pot Dirt:
With yarn C (brown), leave a tail for sewing and chain 6. Slip stitch into the first chain to form a circle and chain 1.
Rnd 1: 2sc into each ch around, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 2: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 3: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 4: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 5: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join (36).

Fasten off yarn C and leave a long (~2 ft) tail for sewing.
Alternatively, you may instead leave just a short end tail on your dirt, then start the next section of your pot with a long beginning tail—either works, as long as one tail is left long!
Crochet Terracotta Pot:

Follow the tutorial for the Terracotta Pot Cutie companion pattern before continuing to the next steps.
If desired, you may also substitute the terracotta pot with a Drip Glaze Pot Cutie—both pot patterns are compatible with all of our Flower Cuties and Plant Cuties!
The terracotta pot pattern, as seen in the photo above, is easier in difficulty than the drip glaze pot and is a great option for crocheters that are not comfortable with mid-round color changing and surface crochet techniques.
Conversely, the drip glaze pot pattern, as seen below, is more challenging but also has a wider base than the terracotta pot and makes your projects less prone to being top-heavy.
Choose whichever pattern works best for you!

Attaching Rose:
Retrieve your rose that you've set aside earlier and place the bottom of the stem over top of the center hole (round 1) of your dirt.
The example crochet rose is sewn together first, with the wire added into it last. However, you may also add your wire into your flower now, before sewing together, if desired.
Using the tail of yarn C, left over from the beginning of the dirt, sew around the entire circumference of the rose stem and dirt hole to attach them together.
Secure your sewing with a knot to the end tail of the stem. Then, trim any excess length and weave in all tails.

Finally, cut a length of wire that measures to the height of your crochet rose, from the bottom of the flower pot to the top of stem.
Then, gently thread the wire between any 2 stitches at the top of the stem or flower and shimmy it through until it reaches the bottom of your crochet flower pot and your rose is able to stand upright on its own.
Conclusion | Free Crochet Rose Amigurumi
And with that, you’re done the free crochet Rose Cutie pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out its five companion patterns in the Flower Cuties collection: the Daffodil Cutie, the Tulip Cutie, the Daisy Cutie, the Carnation Cutie, the Sunflower Cutie, the Lily of the Valley Cutie, the Pansy Cutie, and the Lily Cutie!
You can also explore the Cutie Collections page and the Pocket Pets page for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!
If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!
And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!
Follow Virkadia on Instagram to stay updated on all new and upcoming patterns, crochet content, and amigurumi adventures! Thank you for all of your support!

Crochet Rose | Free Pattern
Add a touch of color into your home with our free crochet rose amigurumi pattern—no watering necessary!
This project is perfect for DIY Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, and anniversary gifts, and floral home decor.
Materials
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 4+ colors
- Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn
- Black embroidery floss
- 10 mm black safety eyes (x2)
- Wire
- Polyester fiberfill
Tools
- Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
- Wire Cutters
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Instructions
Read below for the condensed instructions for the Rose Cutie pattern by Virkadia.
This condensed version is not recommended for first-time projects. For the detailed tutorial (with photos), please see the full-length pattern above.
Tired of ads? Check out our ad-free PDF download, available for purchase on Etsy!
And don’t forget to add your project on Ravelry!
Crochet Rose Leaves:
With yarn A (green), chain 8.
Rnd 1: beg in 3rd ch from hook, 1dc, 2tr, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc, sl st, ch 1, working into other side of ch sts, sl st, 1sc, 1hdc, 1dc, 2tr, 1dc, ch 2, sl st into same st as last dc (20).
Fasten off yarn A and weave in tails. Set aside for now.
Repeat round 1, one more time, for a total of two leaves.
Crochet Rose Petals:
With yarn B (red), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: 2sc x 6, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 3: [1sc, 2sc] x 6, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 4: 1sc x 12, 1hdc x 3, ch 1, sl st into same st as last hdc, sl st, ch 1, 1hdc into same st as last sl st, 1hdc x 2, join (22).
Fasten off yarn B and leave a tail for sewing. Set aside for now. This will be petal #1.
Repeat rounds 1 to 4 to create a second crochet rose petal. This will be petal #2.
Retrieve petal #1 that you've set aside earlier. Then, align both petals so that the notched end, or the side with the half double crochets, is facing upwards.
Place the two petals side by side so that the end tail on the side of petal #1 is between both petals. Additionally, make sure that the front side of each petal is facing towards you.
Then, using the end tail from petal #1, sew a total of three stitches from each petal together to connect their side edges.
For petal #1, you will be sewing through the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd stitches of round 4, traveling downwards toward the bottom of the petal.
For petal #2, you will be sewing through the 12th, 11th, and 10th stitches of round 4, or the 3 stitches immediately preceding the half double crochets.
For best results, try sewing through the back loops only on petal #2, as this will create a more defined edge between your petals.
To finish, secure your sewing with a knot on the back side of your petal and weave in any excess tail.
Repeat all steps to create five more petals, attaching them in the same way as petals #1 and #2, to create a string of seven petals total.
Be sure not to cut or use the end tail that is left over on your last petal, which should be the furthest petal away from your dominant hand. You will be using this tail to sew the rose together, later.
Crochet Rose Stem:
Rotate your string of petals around so that the notched sides now face downward. Double-check that the front sides of your petals are facing you before continuing.
Your last petal, with the end tail still remaining, should now be on the same side as your dominant hand. You will begin your next round in this last petal.
The first round of the stem will be worked across the bottom of your string of petals, into the bottom 6 stitches of each of your first 3 petals only.
Join yarn A (green) into the 4th stitch of round 4 of your last petal. Begin round 1 below in the same stitch as where you've just joined yarn A.
Rnd 1: [1sc into 4th st of next petal, sc2tog, 1sc, sc2tog] x 3 (12).
Beginning with the furthest petal, on the opposite side from where you began round 1 of the stem, gently roll up your petals into a layered cylinder.
The wrong sides of each petal should be facing inwards toward the center of the roll, and the first and last stitches of round 1 of the stem should now be touching.
Keeping a firm grip on your rolled petals so that they don't come undone, slip stitch into the first stitch of round 1 of the stem to join the round and chain 1.
Then, carefully remove your hook and secure your working loop with a stitch marker.
Finally, using the last remaining end tail from your petals, sew straight through the entire roll of petals to secure them together.
For best results, try passing your needle through the whole roll to the opposite side, then reinsert your needle into an adjacent stitch and pass your tail through again, aiming for the bottom of your petals (inside round 1 of your stem).
You may then secure your tail with a knot to the beginning tail of round 1 of your stem, inside your piece, and trim any excess length.
Remove your stitch marker and continue to round 2.
Rnd 2: sc2tog x 6, join, ch 1 (6).
If you have difficulty working into small rounds, you may instead replace rounds 3 to 14 with continuing rounds of 6 stitches each (1sc x 6, join, ch 1).
Rnd 3: [1sc, sc2tog] x 2, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 4: 1sc x 4, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 5: 1sc x 4, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 6: 1sc x 4, join, ch 1 (4).
Retrieve your crochet rose leaves that you’ve set aside earlier.
Align your first leaf so that the side with your 2-chain sequences, on the opposite side from your pointy end, is laying in front of and is parallel with your current round.
You will be working one stitch into the center end of each leaf (where your last slip stitch was worked into) and your stem simultaneously, in order to attach them together.
Alternatively, you may instead replace rounds 7 and 11 with normal rounds (1sc x 6, join, ch 1), then sew your leaves on afterwards with a length of yarn A.
Rnd 7: 1sc into stem only, 1sc into 1st leaf and next st of stem together, 1sc x 2 into stem only, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 8: 1sc x 4, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 9: 1sc x 4, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 10: 1sc x 4, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 11: 1sc x 3 into stem only, 1sc into 2nd leaf and next st of stem together, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 12: 1sc x 4, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 13: 1sc x 4, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 14: [1sc, 2sc] x 2, join (6).
Fasten off yarn A and leave a short tail for tying.
Crochet Pot Dirt:
With yarn C (brown), leave a tail for sewing and chain 6. Slip stitch into the first chain to form a circle and chain 1.
Rnd 1: 2sc x 6, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 2: [1sc, 2sc] x 6, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 3: [2sc, 1sc x 2] x 6, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 4: [1sc x 3, 2sc] x 6, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 5: [2sc, 1sc x 4] x 6, join (36).
Fasten off yarn C and leave a long (~2 ft) tail for sewing, or leave a short tail and begin the next part of your pot with a long beginning tail.
Choosing a Pot Design:
Follow the tutorial for either the Drip Glaze Pot Cutie or the Terracotta Pot Cutie companion pattern before continuing to the next steps.
The terracotta pot pattern is easier in difficulty and is a great option for crocheters that are not comfortable with mid-round color changing and surface crochet techniques.
Conversely, the drip glaze pot pattern is more challenging but also has a wider base than the terracotta pot and makes your projects less prone to being top-heavy.
Choose whichever pattern works best for you!
Attaching Rose:
Retrieve your rose that you've set aside earlier and place the bottom of the stem over top of the center hole (round 1) of your dirt.
The example crochet rose is sewn together first, with the wire added into it last. However, you may also add your wire into your flower now, before sewing together, if desired.
Using the tail of yarn C, left over from the beginning of the dirt, sew around the entire circumference of the rose stem and dirt hole to attach them together.
Secure your sewing with a knot to the end tail of the stem. Then, trim any excess length and weave in all tails.
Finally, cut a length of wire that measures to the height of your crochet rose, from the bottom of the flower pot to the top of stem.
Then, gently thread the wire between any 2 stitches at the top of the stem or flower and shimmy it through until it reaches the bottom of your crochet flower pot and your rose is able to stand upright on its own.
Conclusion | Free Crochet Rose Amigurumi
Explore our Patterns page for more crochet home decor projects, amigurumi patterns, and clothing designs!
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And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!
Thank you for all of your support!






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