Blooming from this free crochet daffodil amigurumi pattern are all the sunny scenes of sweet springtime—the smell of rain riding in on a traveling wind, freshly turned soil thawing to allow the passage of new sprouts, and flocks of homesick birds returning from their winter vacations.
While you bask in the fresh floral breeze of sunny springtime, there’s no better way to celebrate the rebirth of the earth than with this free crochet daffodil amigurumi pattern!

So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Daffodil Cutie, part 1 of 9 in the Flower Cuties collection!
Pattern Information | Free Crochet Daffodil Amigurumi
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This free crochet daffodil amigurumi pattern has a difficulty rating of intermediate.
The finished dimensions are 7.5 inches (height) by 3.25 inches (width) by 3.25 inches (depth).*
You may also make your pieces larger or smaller by increasing or decreasing your yarn weight and/or hook size, respectively.
*Finished dimensions are calculated from a model using medium weight yarn, a size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook, the YU/YO method and the following gauge: 18 sc x 21 rows = 4 inches.
Supplies:
- Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 5 colors:
- Yarn A – yellow (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Pale Yellow)
- Yarn B – white (Red Heart Super Saver: Soft White)
- Yarn C – green (Big Twist Value: Forest Green)
- Yarn D – brown (Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
- Yarn E – orange (Caron One Pound: Faded Brick)
- Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn (Red Heart Super Saver: Baby Pink)
- Black embroidery floss
- 10 mm black safety eyes (x2)
- Wire (14 Gauge Black Aluminum Wire by hildie & jo)
- Wire Cutters
- Polyester fiberfill
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Alternate Yarn Supplies:
Color Variation 2 (as seen on the left in cover photo):
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 5 colors:
- Yarn A – yellow (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Saffron)
- Yarn B – light yellow (Red Heart Super Saver: Pale Yellow)
- Yarn C – green (Big Twist Value: Light Green)
- Yarn D – brown (Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
- Yarn E – rust (Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Ginger)
- Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn (Red Heart Super Saver: Perfect Pink)

Terminology:
This free crochet daffodil amigurumi pattern uses English (US) terminology:
- st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- FLO = front loop only
- BLO = back loop only
- beg = beginning
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
You can learn more about how to read Virkadia patterns on our Pattern Help FAQ page!
Special Stitch Instructions:
Please review our special stitch instructions on our Stitch Tutorials FAQ before beginning, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.
You can also watch our amigurumi techniques video tutorial for all of our tips and tricks for improving your project!
This free crochet daffodil amigurumi pattern uses the following special stitch tutorials:
- Single Crochet (YU/YO Method)
- Invisible Decrease
- Joining Rounds
This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.
Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Daffodil Amigurumi
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Crochet Daffodil Center:
With yarn A (yellow), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).
Rnd 1: 9hdc into ring, sl st into 1st to join, ch 1 (9).
Rnd 2: 1sc into BLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (9).
Rnd 3: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (9).
For the next round, you will be working six modified picot stitches around the circumference of the daffodil center.
Instead of the more common 3 chains, these picot stitches will consist of only 2 chains, in order to create a smaller embellishment.
Additionally, instead of connecting into your first chain to form the picot, you will instead work a slip stitch, from top to bottom, into the front loop only of the last single crochet you’ve worked.
Rnd 4: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, ch 2, sl st into FLO of last sc, 2sc into next st, ch 2, sl st into FLO of last sc] 3 times, join (12 + 6 picots).

Fasten off yarn A and weave in tails. Set aside for now.
Crochet Daffodil Petals:
With yarn B (white), chain 6.
Rnd 1: 3dc into 3rd ch from hook, 1dc into next st, 1hdc into next st, 2sc into next st, working into other side of ch sts, 1sc into next st, 1hdc into next st, 1dc into next st, 3dc into next st, sl st into 1st dc to join (13).
Fasten off yarn B and weave in tails. Set aside for now.
Repeat round 1, five more times, for a total of six petals.

Crochet Daffodil Leaves:
With yarn C (green), chain 13.
Rnd 1: sl st into 2nd ch from hook, sl st into each of next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, 1hdc into each of next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 3 sts, ch 3, sl st into same st as last dc, ch 3, working into other side of ch sts, 1dc into each of next 3 sts, 1hdc into each of next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, sl st into each of next 3 sts, sl st into 1st st to join (31).
Fasten off yarn C and weave in tails. Set aside for now.
Repeat round 1, one more time, for a total of two leaves.

Crochet Daffodil Stem:
The majority of this crochet daffodil stem is worked in rounds of only 4 stitches each.
While this creates a nice, slim stem for your flower, it may be challenging for some crocheters to work into.
If you have difficulty working into small rounds, you may instead replace rounds 4 to 13 with continuing rounds of 6 stitches each (1sc into each st around, join, ch 1).
Choose whichever method works best for you!
With yarn C (green), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).
Rnd 1: 9hdc into ring, sl st into 1st to join, ch 1 (9).
Rnd 2: 1sc into BLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (9).
Rnd 3: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 4: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 5: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 6 to 12 (7 rnds): repeat rnd 5 (4).
Rnd 13: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (6).

Retrieve both of your crochet daffodil leaves that you've set aside earlier.
We will now be working our stitches through both the chain stitches of each leaf and the current round of the stem simultaneously, in order to attach them together.
Align your first leaf, right side facing outwards, so that both of the 3-chain sequences (on the opposite side from your pointy end) are laying in front of and are parallel with your current round.
Take care to work round 14 into the actual chain stitches at the end of the leaf only. Do not work into the slip stitch between the 3-chain sequences, nor the open spaces beneath the chains.
Optionally, if you have difficulty attaching the leaves in this way (especially the second leaf, which is trickier), you may instead sew them onto the stem afterwards with a length of yarn C.
If you choose to sew the leaves onto the stem instead, simply replace rounds 14 and 15 with normal rounds (1sc into each st around, join, ch 1).
Choose whichever method works best for you!
Rnd 14: 1sc into 1st ch of leaf and 1st st of stem together, 1sc into each of next 5 sts of both leaf and stem together, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 15: 1sc into 4th ch of leaf and 1st st of stem together, 1sc into each of next 2 sts of both leaf and stem together, 1sc into 1st ch of leaf and 4th st of stem together, 1sc into each of next 2 sts of both leaf and stem together, join (6).
Fasten off yarn C and leave a short tail for tying.
If you've skipped attaching the leaves during rounds 14 and 15, you may sew them on now. Then, continue to the instructions for sewing your crochet daffodil together below.
Sewing Together:
Retrieve all pieces of your flower and keep them on standby. We will now be attaching everything into one flower, beginning with sewing three of the petals onto the daffodil center.
With the opening of the daffodil center facing upwards, start by locating your front loops only, left over from round 1, on the bottom of the daffodil center.
Take your first petal and rotate it so that the right side of your petal is facing upwards, towards the opening of the daffodil center.
Then, locate the center 2 double crochet, or the first and last stitches of round 1, at the rounder end of the petal.
With a length of yarn B (white), leave a short beginning tail and sew through one of these 2 double crochet at the end of the petal, then through one of the front loops only at the bottom of the daffodil center.
Repeat this step with the next double crochet at the end of the petal and the next front loop only on the daffodil center, as well.
To complete the sequence, sew through the next front loop on your daffodil center only, without a petal.
Then, repeat the entire sequence two more times with the next two petals, so that there are three petals total, evenly spaced around the bottom of your daffodil center.
Tie your beginning and end tails together to secure your sewing, cut any excess length, and weave in all tails.
Using the same method, sew your remaining three petals onto the front loops only, left over from round 1, on the top of your stem.
Like before, make sure that the right side of your petals are facing upwards, away from the bottom of the stem, as you attach them.

Lastly, lay the daffodil center on top of the stem and rotate both pieces until the bottom three petals are visible between the gaps of the top three petals.
With the same strand or a new length of yarn B (white), sew both pieces together around the entire circumference of the inner edge of the petals.
Secure your sewing with a knot to the beginning tail, cut any excess length, then weave in all tails.
Set aside for now and continue to the pot dirt below.
Crochet Pot Dirt:
With yarn D (brown), leave a tail for sewing and chain 6. Slip stitch into the first chain to form a circle and chain 1.
Rnd 1: 2sc into each ch around, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 2: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 3: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 4: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 5: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join (36).

Fasten off yarn D and leave a long (~2 ft) tail for sewing.
Alternatively, you may instead leave just a short end tail on your dirt, then start the next section of your pot with a long beginning tail—either works, as long as one tail is left long!
Crochet Terracotta Pot:

Follow the tutorial for the Terracotta Pot Cutie companion pattern before continuing to the next steps.
If desired, you may also substitute the terracotta pot with a Drip Glaze Pot Cutie—both pot patterns are compatible with all of our Flower Cuties and Plant Cuties!
The terracotta pot pattern, as seen in the photo above, is easier in difficulty than the drip glaze pot and is a great option for crocheters that are not comfortable with mid-round color changing and surface crochet techniques.
Conversely, the drip glaze pot pattern, as seen below, is more challenging but also has a wider base than the terracotta pot and makes your projects less prone to being top-heavy.
Choose whichever pattern works best for you!

Attaching Daffodil:
Retrieve your daffodil that you've set aside earlier and place the bottom of the stem over top of the center hole (round 1) of your dirt.
The example crochet daffodil is sewn together first, with the wire added into it last. However, you may also add your wire into your flower now, before sewing together, if desired.
Using the tail of yarn D, left over from the beginning of the dirt, sew around the entire circumference of the daffodil stem and dirt hole to attach them together.
Secure your sewing with a knot to the end tail of the stem. Then, trim any excess length and weave in all tails.

Finally, cut a length of wire that measures to the height of your crochet daffodil, from the bottom of the flower pot to the top of stem.
Then, gently thread the wire between any 2 stitches at the top of the stem and shimmy it through until it reaches the bottom of your crochet flower pot and your daffodil is able to stand upright on its own.
Conclusion | Free Crochet Daffodil Amigurumi
And with that, you’re done the free crochet Daffodil Cutie pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out its five companion patterns in the Flower Cuties collection: the Tulip Cutie, the Daisy Cutie, the Carnation Cutie, the Sunflower Cutie, the Rose Cutie, the Lily of the Valley Cutie, the Pansy Cutie, and the Lily Cutie!
You can also explore the Cutie Collections page and the Pocket Pets page for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!
If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!
And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!
Follow Virkadia on Instagram to stay updated on all new and upcoming patterns, crochet content, and amigurumi adventures! Thank you for all of your support!

Crochet Daffodil | Free Pattern
Add a touch of spring color into your home with our free crochet daffodil amigurumi pattern—no watering necessary!
This project is perfect for DIY Easter and Mother’s Day gifts, spring flower crafts, and floral home decor.
Materials
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 5+ colors
- Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn
- Black embroidery floss
- 10 mm black safety eyes (x2)
- Wire
- Polyester fiberfill
Tools
- Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
- Wire Cutters
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Instructions
Read below for the condensed instructions for the Daffodil Cutie pattern by Virkadia.
This condensed version is not recommended for first-time projects. For the detailed tutorial (with photos), please see the full-length pattern above.
Tired of ads? Check out our ad-free PDF download, available for purchase on Etsy!
And don’t forget to add your project on Ravelry!
Crochet Daffodil Center:
With yarn A (yellow), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).
Rnd 1: 9hdc into ring, join, ch 1 (9).
Rnd 2: in BLO, 1sc x 9, join, ch 1 (9).
Rnd 3: 1sc x 9, join, ch 1 (9).
For the next round, you will be working six modified picot stitches around the circumference of the daffodil center.
These picot stitches will consist of only 2 chains and will be formed into shape by working a slip stitch, from top to bottom, into the front loop only of the last single crochet you’ve worked.
Rnd 4: [1sc x 2, ch 2, sl st into FLO of last sc, 2sc, ch 2, sl st into FLO of last sc] x 3, join (12 + 6 picots).
Fasten off yarn A and weave in tails. Set aside for now.
Crochet Daffodil Petals:
With yarn B (white), chain 6.
Rnd 1: beg in 3rd ch from hook, 3dc, 1dc, 1hdc, 2sc, working into other side of ch sts, 1sc, 1hdc, 1dc, 3dc, sl st into 1st dc to join (13).
Fasten off yarn B and weave in tails. Set aside for now.
Repeat round 1, five more times, for a total of six petals.
Crochet Daffodil Leaves:
With yarn C (green), chain 13.
Rnd 1: beg in 2nd ch from hook, sl st x 3, 1sc x 3, 1hdc x 3, 1dc x 3, ch 3, sl st into same st as last dc, ch 3, working into other side of ch sts, 1dc x 3, 1hdc x 3, 1sc x 3, sl st x 3, join (31).
Fasten off yarn C and weave in tails. Set aside for now.
Repeat round 1, one more time, for a total of two leaves.
Crochet Daffodil Stem:
With yarn C (green), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).
Rnd 1: 9hdc into ring, join, ch 1 (9).
Rnd 2: in BLO, 1sc x 9, join, ch 1 (9).
Rnd 3: [sc2tog, 1sc] x 3, join, ch 1 (6).
If you have difficulty working into small rounds, you may replace rounds 4 to 13 with continuing rounds of 6 stitches each (1sc x 6, join, ch 1), instead.
Rnd 4: [1sc, sc2tog] x 2, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnds 5 to 12 (8 rnds): 1sc x 4, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 13: [1sc, 2sc] x 2, join, ch 1 (6).
During rounds 14 and 15, we will be working our stitches through both the chain stitches of each leaf and the current round of the stem simultaneously, in order to attach them together.
Align your first leaf, right side facing outwards, so that both of the 3-chain sequences (on the opposite side from your pointy end) are laying in front of and are parallel with your current round.
Be sure to work into the actual chain stitches at the end of the leaf only. Do not work into the slip stitch between the 3-chain sequences, nor the open spaces beneath the chains.
Optionally, you may instead replace rounds 14 and 15 with normal rounds (1sc x 6, join, ch 1), then sew the leaves onto the stem afterwards with a length of yarn C.
Rnd 14: 1sc into 1st ch of leaf and 1st st of stem together, 1sc x 5 into both leaf and stem together, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 15: 1sc into 4th ch of leaf and 1st st of stem together, 1sc x 2 into both leaf and stem together, 1sc into 1st ch of leaf and 4th st of stem together, 1sc x 2 into both leaf and stem together, join (6).
Fasten off yarn C and leave a short tail for tying.
If you've skipped attaching the leaves during rounds 14 and 15, you may sew them on now.
Sewing Together:
We will now be attaching all pieces into one flower, beginning with sewing three of the petals onto the daffodil center.
With the opening of the daffodil center facing upwards, start by locating your front loops only, left over from round 1, on the bottom of the daffodil center.
Take your first petal, right side facing upwards, and locate the center 2 double crochet, or the first and last stitches of round 1, at the rounder end of the petal.
With a length of yarn B (white), leave a short beginning tail and sew through one of these 2 double crochet at the end of the petal, then through one of the front loops only at the bottom of the daffodil center.
Repeat this step with the next double crochet at the end of the petal and the next front loop only on the daffodil center, as well.
To complete the sequence, sew through the next front loop on your daffodil center only, without a petal.
Then, repeat the entire sequence two more times with the next two petals, so that there are three petals total, evenly spaced around the bottom of your daffodil center.
Tie your beginning and end tails together to secure your sewing, cut any excess length, and weave in all tails.
Using the same method, sew your remaining three petals, right sides upwards, onto the front loops only, left over from round 1, on the top of your stem.
Lastly, lay the daffodil center on top of the stem and rotate both pieces until the bottom three petals are visible between the gaps of the top three petals.
With the same strand or a new length of yarn B (white), sew both pieces together around the entire circumference of the inner edge of the petals.
Secure your sewing with a knot to the beginning tail, cut any excess length, then weave in all tails.
Crochet Pot Dirt:
With yarn D (brown), leave a tail for sewing and chain 6. Slip stitch into the first chain to form a circle and chain 1.
Rnd 1: 2sc x 12, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 2: [1sc, 2sc] x 6, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 3: [2sc, 1sc x 2] x 6, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 4: [1sc x 3, 2sc] x 6, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 5: [2sc, 1sc x 4] x 6, join (36).
Fasten off yarn D and leave a long (~2 ft) tail for sewing, or leave a short tail and begin the next part of your pot with a long beginning tail.
Choosing a Pot Design:
Follow the tutorial for either the Drip Glaze Pot Cutie or the Terracotta Pot Cutie companion pattern before continuing to the next steps.
The terracotta pot pattern is easier in difficulty and is a great option for crocheters that are not comfortable with mid-round color changing and surface crochet techniques.
Conversely, the drip glaze pot pattern is more challenging but also has a wider base than the terracotta pot and makes your projects less prone to being top-heavy.
Choose whichever pattern works best for you!
Attaching Daffodil:
Retrieve your daffodil that you've set aside earlier and place the bottom of the stem over top of the center hole (round 1) of your dirt.
The example crochet daffodil is sewn together first, with the wire added into it last. However, you may also add your wire into your flower now, before sewing together, if desired.
Using the tail of yarn D, left over from the beginning of the dirt, sew around the entire circumference of the daffodil stem and dirt hole to attach them together.
Secure your sewing with a knot to the end tail of the stem. Then, trim any excess length and weave in all tails.
Finally, cut a length of wire that measures to the height of your crochet daffodil, from the bottom of the flower pot to the top of stem.
Then, gently thread the wire between any 2 stitches at the top of the stem and shimmy it through until it reaches the bottom of your crochet flower pot and your daffodil is able to stand upright on its own.
Conclusion:
Explore our Patterns page for more crochet home decor projects, amigurumi patterns, and clothing designs!
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Thank you for all of your support!






Mary says
I love your daffodil pattern and your other patterns. Thank you for sharing it. I do have one question about the instructions, shouldn't line 6 read back loop only for the "dirt" instead of FLO ? I hate to continue if i'm right and have to rip it out. Thank you so much for your beautiful creations. Sincerely
Virkadia says
Thank you so much for your kind words! ❤️
Yes, round 6 (or the first round of the “pot”) should be worked into the front loops only of round 5 (the “dirt”). After finishing round 6, your pot should start rising up above your dirt, and will later flare out (rnd 8) and then fold back downwards (rnds 9-10).
If working in the front loops only isn’t giving you the correct shape, double-check that you are keeping the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.
If you’ve worked your piece so far with the wrong side facing outwards, don’t worry! You can tweak the pattern to continue working with the wrong side out by simply reversing all of the front loop and back loop only instructions (i.e., change all FLO to BLO and vice versa).
Hope this helps!
Mary says
@Virkadia, Thank you so much for explaining that to me. It was made very different from others I have made. It came out very nice. Looking forward to making more of your beautiful creations. Sincerely