Get ready to layer yourself in all the best feelings of winter coziness with our oversized crochet patchwork sweater pattern. This stylish and comfortable sweater boasts big sleeves and a trendy cropped length, making it the perfect outfit to make a statement at your next holiday party!
Inspired by the rich and wintery hues of the holiday season, this crochet patchwork sweater is made up of colorful Virkadia Squares and our own unique ribbing technique, both original designs by Virkadia!
The plush density of each square makes this patchwork sweater perfect for keeping out the bitter breeze of the cold winter months, and will keep you feeling warm and cozy even when the windows are filled with frost.
So grab your crochet hook and your biggest mug of hot cocoa, and let’s get started on this satisfying project that’s as enjoyable to make as it is to wear!
Pattern Information | Free Crochet Patchwork Sweater
Supplies:
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- Size L-11 (8 mm) crochet hook or K-10.5 (6.5 mm) crochet hook (refer to sizing instructions for required hook size)
- Medium weight yarn in 8 colors (refer to sizing instructions for required yardages):
- Yarn A – coral (example uses Craft Smart Value: Ginger)
- Yarn B – red (example uses Craft Smart Value: Clay)
- Yarn C – burgundy (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Claret)
- Yarn D – medium brown (example uses Caron One Pound: Truffle)
- Yarn E – dark green (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Hunter Green)
- Yarn F – medium green (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Medium Thyme)
- Yarn G – black (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Black)
- Yarn H – dark brown (example uses Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers (optional)
Terminology:
This free crochet patchwork sweater pattern uses English (US) terminology:
- st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- dc3tog = double crochet 3 together (over the span of 3 stitches)
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.
Unless otherwise specified, each round will always begin in the same stitch as your joining slip stitch.
Crochet Patchwork Sweater – Sizing Instructions:
This free crochet patchwork sweater pattern comes with instructions for 4 different sizes: small/medium, large/XL, 2X/3X, and 4X/5X. Use the table below to choose the best size for you, according to your chest measurement.
The patchwork sweater shown in pictures is made in the size large/XL, and is modeled on a body that is 5 feet and 3 inches tall.
Note: if you are customizing this patchwork sweater pattern to be longer (lower than your hips) you may use your hip measurement for sizing instead.
For other sizes, this pattern is easily adaptable and customizable! Sizes can be altered either by adding more or fewer squares to your pattern, or by changing your yarn weight and gauge.
Size small/medium has a chest circumference of 42 inches. Please use a size K/10.5 (6.5 mm) crochet hook and follow diagram 1 for pattern layout.
Size large/X-large has a chest circumference of 48 inches. Please use a size L/11 (8 mm) crochet hook and follow diagram 1 for pattern layout.
Size 2X/3X has a chest circumference of 56 inches. Please use a size K/10.5 (6.5 mm) crochet hook and follow diagram 2 for pattern layout.
Size 4X/5X has a chest circumference of 64 inches. Please use a size L/11 (8 mm) crochet hook and follow diagram 2 for pattern layout.
Crochet Patchwork Sweater – Gauges:
Please refer to the size chart above to find the appropriate hook size and gauge for your particular size.
For sizes S/M and 2X/3X, you will be using the gauge on the left. Using a size K/10.5 – 6.5 mm hook, crochet a standard Virkadia Square. Your square should measure roughly 3.5 inches by 3.5 inches.
For sizes L/XL and 4X/5X, you will be using the gauge on the right. Using a size L/11 – 8 mm hook, crochet a standard Virkadia Square. Your square should measure roughly 4 inches by 4 inches.
Please note, that while working with this gauge, you might feel like your hook is too large for your yarn but resist the urge to downsize your hook or use thicker yarn!
The loose tension is what will allowed your piece to have a better drape and keep it from feeling too stiff and unnatural to wear.
Refer to the appropriate diagram below, according to your size, for the exact number of squares of each type and color you will need, as well as required yardages.
Diagram 1 (Sizes S/M and L/XL):
Sleeves lengths, measuring from the neck ribbing to the sleeve cuff, are 22.75 inches for size small/medium, and 26 for size medium/large.
For longer sleeves, replace all the tapered squares at the end of the sleeves in the diagram with standard squares. Then, add the tapered squares seen under ‘extended sleeves’ onto the ends of their respective sleeves.
Likewise, for a longer body, add the extended body (back and front) squares to the bottom rows of squares on each side of the patchwork sweater.
Refer to the graph above for the exact number of each type of square of each color you will need. Required yarn yardages are shown for each size in the table above, as well.
You may use any medium weight yarn for this project, and this pattern is especially great for scrap yarn or stash busting! However, exact colors and brands used in the example patchwork sweater are listed below for those who want an exact replica.
This list contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase using one of the links below, I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you). Thank you for supporting our small business!
- Yarn A – Craft Smart Value: Ginger)
- Yarn B – Craft Smart Value: Clay)
- Yarn C – Red Heart Super Saver: Claret)
- Yarn D – Caron One Pound: Truffle)
- Yarn E – Red Heart Super Saver: Hunter Green)
- Yarn F – Red Heart Super Saver: Medium Thyme)
- Yarn G – Red Heart Super Saver: Black)
- Yarn H – Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
Diagram 2 (Sizes 2X/3X and 4X/5X):
Sleeves lengths, measuring from the neck ribbing to the sleeve cuff, are 22.75 inches for size 2X/3X, and 26 for size 4X/5X.
For longer sleeves, replace all the tapered squares at the end of the sleeves in the diagram with standard squares. Then, add the tapered squares seen under ‘extended sleeves’ onto the ends of their respective sleeves.
Likewise, for a longer body, add the extended body (back and front) squares to the bottom rows of squares on each side of the patchwork sweater.
Refer to the graph above for the exact number of each type of square of each color you will need. Required yarn yardages are shown for each size in the table above, as well.
You may use any medium weight yarn for this project, and this pattern is especially great for scrap yarn or stash busting! However, exact colors and brands used in the example patchwork sweater are listed below for those who want an exact replica.
This list contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase using one of the links below, I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you). Thank you for supporting our small business!
- Yarn A – Craft Smart Value: Ginger)
- Yarn B – Craft Smart Value: Clay)
- Yarn C – Red Heart Super Saver: Claret)
- Yarn D – Caron One Pound: Truffle)
- Yarn E – Red Heart Super Saver: Hunter Green)
- Yarn F – Red Heart Super Saver: Medium Thyme)
- Yarn G – Red Heart Super Saver: Black)
- Yarn H – Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Patchwork Sweater
How to Crochet the Virkadia Square:
Please note that the tutorials below will be showing you the front, or ‘right side,’ of the crochet. The example patchwork sweater above, however, is constructed with the back, or ‘wrong side,’ of each square facing outwards.
You may choose whichever side of the Virkadia Square that better suits your aesthetic preference! Just remember, when you’re assembling your patchwork sweater, to make sure that all squares are facing the same way as each other.
The Patchwork Sweater is made with four different variations of the Virkadia Square. You can learn more about our original design for this square through our dedicated Virkadia Square post.
The majority of this free crochet patchwork sweater pattern is made up of the standard square, which is the normal square shape.
The second shape you will be using is the tapered square variant. This alternative square is used along the end of each sleeve to create a more gentle curve towards the sleeve cuff. If desired, it may be replaced with standard squares if you are looking to achieve a boxier sleeve shape!
The third shape used in this pattern is the half-square variant. Four of these rectangle-shaped patches will be used along the straight edges of the neck cuff.
Lastly, four squares in the sweater will be made from the inside curve variant and will be used in conjunction with the four half-square patches to create a perfect curve around the neck.
Refer to the Sizing Instructions section above for the exact number of each kind and color of square you will need.
The Virkadia Square – Standard:
With your chosen yarn, make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1)
Rnd 1: [1sc into ring, 1dc into ring] 4 times, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (8).
Rnd 2: [1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (16).
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 4: [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (32).
Rnd 5: [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st] 4 times, join (40).
Fasten off and weave in tails.
The Virkadia Square – Tapered Variant:
The tapered variant of the Virkadia Square may look intimidating, but it is actually worked just like the standard square, with two notable exceptions.
The first is that in rounds 3, 4, and 5, the last two corners are each moved over one stitch closer towards each other. The second is that in rounds 3 and 5 (but not 4), the last two corners are worked as (1dc, 1sc, 1dc) instead of (1sc, 1dc, 1sc).
When in doubt, just remember to always work single crochets into double crochets and double crochets into single crochets, except for corners.
Corners are worked as (1sc, 1dc, 1sc), except for the last two corners of rounds 3 and 5, which are (1dc, 1sc, 1dc). And lastly, the first two corners of each round are worked normally, while the last two corners should be separated by only 1 stitch in each round.
With your chosen yarn, make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1)
Rnd 1: [1sc into ring, 1dc into ring] 4 times, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (8).
Rnd 2: [1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (16).
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st] 2 times, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, [1sc into next st, (1dc, 1sc, 1dc) into next st] 2 times, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 4: [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, [1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st] 2 times, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (32).
Rnd 5: [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st] 2 times, [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st] 3 times, [1sc into next st, (1dc, 1sc, 1dc) into next st] 2 times, [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (40).
Fasten off and weave in tails.
Please note that when you join these tapered squares together later (see Joining Squares section), the first and last stitches you will be joining on each tapered end are the outer-most double crochets in each (1dc, 1sc, 1dc) cluster along the shortest edge.
This will leave you with 7 stitches left on each square for adding the cuff (including the first/last two stitches you join in each seam), or 42 stitches around in total. As an option, you may mark these stitches with stitch markers to save yourself some time finding them later.
The Virkadia Square – Half-Square Variant:
This variant is worked similarly to the standard square, except that it is not worked from a center ring. Instead, it is worked around both sides of a chain to create its elongated shape.
With your chosen yarn, chain 8.
Rnd 1: Beginning in 2nd ch from hook, *(1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc) into next st,* working into other side of ch sts, repeat from * to * 1 time, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (20).
Rnd 2: [1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, (1dc into next st, 1sc into next st) 3 times, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st] 2 times, join (28).
Fasten off and weave in tails.
The Virkadia Square – Inside Curve Variant:
Similar to the half-square variant, this L-shaped patch is worked around both sides of a chain to create its elongated shape, but with an added bend in the middle.
At the end of round 2, the yarn is fastened off, then rejoined in the middle of the pattern to work an additional partial round that will add in its perfect curve.
With your chosen yarn, chain 14.
Rnd 1: Beginning in 2nd ch from hook, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc) into next st, working into other side of ch sts, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, dc3tog over next 3 sts, [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st] 2 times, (1sc, 1dc) into next st, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (32).
Rnd 2: 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 3 times, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 3 times, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, dc3tog over next 3 sts, [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st] 2 times, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, join (40).
Fasten off and weave in tails. You should now have an L-shaped rectangle.
Locate your inside corner stitch (where you double crocheted 3 together), and count 4 stitches backwards (not including the inside corner stitch). You will be starting in this stitch and working a partial round to create that perfect curve.
Round 3: sl st into next st, 1sc into next st, 1hdc into next st, dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1hdc into next st, 1sc into next st, sl st into next st (7).
Fasten off and weave in tails.
How to Join Squares (The Flat Slip Stitch Method):
After you’ve completed all of your squares, lay them out in the pattern that correlates with your size. Refer to the diagram for your individual size in the Sizing Instructions section under Pattern Information.
Make sure to flip all of your squares to the same side. The side of each square that you want to be front-facing should be currently facing you.
The example sweater in photos uses the back sides of each patch, but you may choose whichever side fits your aesthetic preference.
Use the diagrams below for our recommended order of assembly. While keeping the entire pattern laid out flat, you will begin with joining all the squares in vertical columns first, then go back to join each of the horizontal rows.
Lastly, you will convert the flat pattern into the final round sweater shape by joining up the sides and underarms. Take care when joining the corners of the underarm as to not leave any gaps. Use your seaming yarn to sew up any lingering holes, if necessary.
Additionally, when working the flat slip stitches, make sure not to work your slip stitches too tightly!
Joining your squares with too tight of tension will cause your squares to puff out and your garment will be unable to drape effectively.
If you find that your squares are puffing out as you join them together, try loosening your tension or sizing up your hook for the duration of this joining method.
Joining Squares (Vertically):
Begin by picking up your first two squares that you want to join together. Refer to the recommended order of assembly above, if desired. Be sure to keep them arranged in the same manner that you want them to be joined.
With the yarn color that you want to use for your joining seams, create a slip knot on your hook. As you work your seams, allow your working tail to travel behind your work. Your active loop and hook will remain in front of your work.
Starting with your left square, insert your hook into the back loop only of the bottom right corner stitch. Do not pull through.
Then, into your right square, insert your hook into the back loop only of the bottom left corner stitch.
Pull up a loop through both stitches, as well as through the loop on your hook. This completes your first slip stitch join.
Continue working slip stitches through the back loops only of each pair of stitches along your squares, left then right, until you reach the next corners.
After completing the last slip stitch into the corner stitches, retrieve the next two squares in your pattern.
Using the same method as before, insert your hook into the corner stitch of the next left square, then the next right square, and pull through all loops.
Continue working up the seam in the same manner to join all squares in the vertical column of your pattern. After your last slip stitch into the corner stitches of your last two squares, fasten off and weave in tails.
Begin again at the bottom of the strip you’ve just joined and use the same method to attach the next column of squares in your pattern.
Continue until all squares in the pattern are connected vertically. Then, follow the directions below to begin attaching them horizontally.
Joining Squares (Horizontally):
Begin by locating the first two squares that you want to join together horizontally. Rotate your work so that your horizontal rows now become vertical columns, like you’ve worked before.
With your chosen yarn for joining, create a slip knot on your hook. Remember, as you work your seams, allow your working tail to travel behind your work. Your active loop and hook will remain in front of your work.
With your work rotated, insert your hook into the back loop only of the corner stitch of the left square, then the right square, and pull up a loop up through all loops.
Continue working slip stitches through the back loops only of each pair of stitches along your squares, left then right, but stop when you reach the next pair of corner stitches.
For the next pair of corner stitches, you will be working into the front loops only, instead of the back loops.
Insert your hook into the front loop only of the corner stitch of the left square, then the right square, and pull through all loops. Do the same for the next pair of corner stitches.
After completing both corner joins through the front loops only, return to working into the back loops only of each stitch until you reach the next set of corner stitches.
Continue working along the seam in the same manner to join all squares in the horizontal row of your pattern.
On the last two corner stitches in the row, work into the back loops again as you did for the very first corner stitches of the row. Fasten off and weave in tails.
Begin again at the beginning of the strip you’ve just joined and use the same method to attach the next row of squares in your pattern.
It is important to note that when joining the ends of the tapered squares on the sleeves, there are no perfect corners to work into. Instead, the first (or last) stitches you should be joining on each sleeve end are the outer-most double crochets in each (1dc, 1sc, 1dc) cluster!
This will leave you with 7 stitches left on each square for adding the cuff (this includes the first/last two stitches you’ve joined in each seam, which you will still work into when adding the cuff), or 42 stitches around in total.
Once all squares are joined into a flat pattern, you may then join them into the final rounded pattern by joining up the side seams and underarms.
How to Add Ribbing (The Virkadia Method):
This crochet patchwork sweater uses our very own original ribbing method. The Virkadia ribbing method has three variations, depending on the amount of cinching you are aiming to achieve.
Instructions for our unique method of adding ribbing can be found in the next sections below, but we will first review the recommended ribbing for each section of the sweater. You may follow along for an exact match to the example sweater, or customize your ribbing to your own unique fit!
The example crochet patchwork sweater shown in pictures utilizes the 3-stitch join method for both sleeve cuffs, and alternates between the 2-stitch and 3-stitch join methods for both the neck cuff and bottom ribbing.
For the neck cuff shown in pictures, start in the center back of the neck and begin with a 3-stitch join rib, then a 2-stitch join rib. Keep alternating around the entire circumference of the neck, ending with a 3-stitch join rib, for a total of 35 ribs around for all sizes.
For the bottom ribbing shown in pictures, start in the center back of the bottom edge of the sweater. You will again be alternating between a 2-stitch and a 3-stitch join around the entire circumference of the sweater.
For sizes S/M and L/XL, begin with a 2-stitch join rib, then a 3-stitch join rib. Keep alternating around the entire circumference of the waist. You will be ending with a 2-stitch join rib, for a total of 53 ribs around.
For sizes 2X/3X AND 4X/5X, you will also begin with a 2-stitch join rib, then a 3-stitch join rib. Continue to alternate around the entire circumference of the waist until you have 6 stitches remaining on the body. Then, with the remaining 6 stitches, work 3 consecutive 2-stitch join ribs, for a total of 71 ribs around.
Lastly, for the sleeve cuffs, work an unmodified 3-stitch join ribbing method around each sleeve circumference.
While this pattern does not call for the 4-stitch join ribbing, it still remains an option for anyone looking for a more dramatic cinch in any of the cuffs. Therefore, instructions for this method are still included below as an available alternative.
2-Stitch Join Ribbing:
Flat edges where you want minimal to no cinching should use the 2-stitch join ribbing method. You may use the unmodified 2-stitch join method around the bottom edge of the sweater if you do not want a cinched waist.
Insert your hook into the corner or first stitch of the edge that you want to add ribbing to. With your chosen yarn, pull up a loop. Then, yarn over both ends (your beginning tail and your normal working yarn) and pull through.
Pull the loop on your hook that is your beginning tail until the end comes out. Then, pull on the chain you’ve just made until it is tight. You will not work into this stitch again and it should not be included in your stitch count.
For the following ribbing instructions, the ‘body’ will refer to the piece of crochet that you are working your ribbed cuff onto. The first stitch worked into the body should be the same stitch where you’ve joined your yarn.
Chain 7, or as many stitches wide as your want your cuff, plus one. For the best results, work your first row into the back bars of your chain.
Row 1: 1hdc into the 2nd ch from hook and each ch across until 1 ch is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next ch and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and all 3 loops on hook, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 2: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 3: 1hdc into each sl st across until 1 st is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next sl st and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and all 3 loops on hook, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 4: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Repeat rows 3 and 4 around the circumference of your edge until you end up back to the first row, ending with a repetition of row 4.
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Sew the last row and first row together and secure with a knot on the interior of your work. Trim your tail and sew in any remaining length.
3-Stitch Join Ribbing:
For rounded areas that you want to have moderate cinching, the 3-stitch join ribbing method adds a beautiful but gentle curve to your finished crochet piece and is great for sleeve cuffs.
Begin by inserting your hook into any stitch around the end of the sleeve. With your chosen yarn, pull up a loop. Then, yarn over both ends (your beginning tail and your normal working yarn) and pull through.
Pull the loop on your hook that is your beginning tail until the end comes out. Then, pull on the chain you’ve just made until it is tight. You will not work into this stitch again and it should not be included in your stitch count.
For the following ribbing instructions, the ‘body’ will refer to the piece of crochet that you are working your ribbed cuff onto. The first stitch worked into the body should be the same stitch where you’ve joined your yarn.
Chain 7, or as many stitches wide as your want your cuff, plus one. For the best results, work your first row into the back bars of your chain.
Row 1: 1hdc into the 2nd ch from hook and each ch across until 1 ch is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next ch and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and all 3 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and loop on hook, turn (6).
Row 2: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 3: 1hdc into each sl st across until 1 st is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next sl st and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and all 3 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and loop on hook, turn (6).
Row 4: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Repeat rows 3 and 4 around the circumference of your edge until you end up back to the first row, ending with a repetition of row 4.
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Sew the last row and first row together and secure with a knot on the interior of your work. Trim your tail and sew in any remaining length.
4-Stitch Join Ribbing:
For sharper curved angles where extra cinching is needed, the 4-stitch join ribbing is ideal. While this pattern does not call for the 4-stitch join ribbing by default, it still remains an option for anyone looking for a more dramatic cinch in any of the cuffs.
Insert your hook into the corner or first stitch of the edge that you want to add ribbing to. With your chosen yarn, pull up a loop. Then, yarn over both ends (your beginning tail and your normal working yarn) and pull through.
Pull the loop on your hook that is your beginning tail until the end comes out. Then, pull on the chain you’ve just made until it is tight. You will not work into this stitch again and it should not be included in your stitch count.
For the following ribbing instructions, the ‘body’ will refer to the piece of crochet that you are working your ribbed cuff onto. The first stitch worked into the body should be the same stitch where you’ve joined your yarn.
Chain 7, or as many stitches wide as your want your cuff, plus one. For the best results, work your first row into the back bars of your chain.
Row 1: 1hdc into the 2nd ch from hook and each ch across until 1 ch is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next ch and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and first 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and last 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and loop on hook, turn (6).
Row 2: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 3: 1hdc into each sl st across until 1 st is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next sl st and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and first 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and last 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and loop on hook, turn (6).
Row 4: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Repeat rows 3 and 4 around the circumference of your edge until you end up back to the first row, ending with a repetition of row 4.
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Sew the last row and first row together and secure with a knot on the interior of your work. Trim your tail and sew in any remaining length.
Conclusion | Free Crochet Patchwork Sweater
Squares joined, cuffs added, and all loose ends weaved in? Congratulations, you’re all done!
If you’ve enjoyed this free crochet patchwork sweater pattern, check out our Crochet Patchwork Cardigan, similarly utilizing our original Virkadia Square pattern!
You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for our original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!
If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!
And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!
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