Prepare to bundle yourself up in all the best feelings of the Valentine’s Day season with our oversized crochet heart sweater pattern. This stylish and comfortable sweater boasts big sleeves and a dramatic radial pattern, making it the perfect outfit to make a statement on your next romantic evening out!
Inspired by the bright colors and classic heart shape of vibrant Valentine’s Day decorations, this free crochet heart sweater is sure to catch the eye of whomever you’ve been wishing would look your way.
The comfortable thickness of this crochet heart sweater is perfect for keeping out the bitter breeze of the remaining winter months, and will keep you feeling warm and cozy, no matter if you’re cuddling up with that special someone, or showing some self-love while you snuggle up with a big box of chocolate, all for yourself!
So grab your crochet hook and some Valentine’s candy for sugary sustenance, and let’s get started on this satisfying project that’s as enjoyable to make as it is to wear!
Pattern Information | Free Crochet Heart Sweater
Supplies:
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- Size L-11 (8 mm) crochet hook*
- Medium weight yarn in 2 colors (refer to sizing instructions for required yardages)*
- Yarn A – pink (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Shocking Pink)
- Yarn B – burgundy (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Mulberry)
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
*Please read sizing instructions carefully, as hook size and required yardages may need to be adjusted for some sizes.
Terminology:
This free crochet heart sweater pattern uses English (US) terminology:
- st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- dc2tog = double crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches)
- dc3tog = double crochet 3 together (over the span of 3 stitches)
- dc5tog = double crochet 5 together (over the span of 5 stitches)
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1dc, 2dc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
In other words, 1dc = one double crochet, whereas 2dc = two double crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.
Sizing Instructions:
Using a size L/11 (8 mm) crochet hook, this free crochet heart sweater pattern has a minimum circumference of 48 inches around the chest (size Large/X-Large), and is adjustable to any desired size above this measurement.
The crochet heart sweater shown in pictures is made in size Large/X-Large, and is modeled on a body that is 5 feet and 3 inches tall.
For sizes smaller than 48 inches around, you will need to adjust your hook size to something smaller. The pattern will otherwise be worked the same and does not need to be adjusted further.
Gauge and Yardages:
All sizes and required yardages are calculated from a model using an L/11 (8 mm) size hook and the recommended gauge. Actual sizes and yardages may vary according to unique materials used and your own individual crochet tension.
Gauge pattern: 11 dc x 7 rows = 4 x 4 inches
Size L/XL has a chest circumference of 48 inches and requires 273 yards of yarn A (pink) and 773 yards of yarn B (burgundy).
Size 2X/3X has a chest circumference of 57 inches and requires 273 yards of yarn A (pink) and 972 yards of yarn B (burgundy).
Size 4X/5X has a chest circumference of 66 inches and requires 273 yards of yarn A (pink) and 1,171 yards of yarn B (burgundy).
Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Heart Sweater
The first 10 rounds of this free crochet heart sweater are worked in the round. However, after each round is joined at the end, the work is then turned, so that you are also working back and forth.
Each round will begin with a turning chain that does not count as a stitch. At the end of each round, you will be joining the round by slip stitching into the first double crochet in the round and ignoring your turning chain.
The next round will begin in the last stitch of the previous round, and end in the same stitch that you’ve previously slip stitched into to join the round beneath.
Be sure to always work new rounds or rows with the ‘wrong side’ of the previous round facing you. Do not forget to turn your work!
Center Body – Rounds 1 to 4:
With yarn A (pink), ch 17.
Rnd 1: beginning in 3rd ch from hook, 1dc into each of next 7 sts, 5dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 6 sts, 4dc into next st, working into other side of ch sts, 1dc into each of next 5 sts, dc5tog over next 5 sts, 1dc into each of next 4 sts, 4dc into next st, sl st into top of 1st dc to join, turn (36).
Rnd 2: ch 2, 2dc into each of next 4 sts, 1dc into each of next 2 sts, dc5tog over next 5 sts, 1dc into each of next 2 sts, 2dc into each of next 5 sts, 1dc into each of next 8 sts, 5dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 8 sts, 2dc into next st, join, turn (46).
Fasten off yarn A and weave in tail.
Join yarn B (burgundy) with a slip stitch into the last stitch of round 2 and chain 2.
Alternatively, you may also replace this slip stitch and turning chain with a standing double crochet (counts as the first double crochet in the pattern).
Rnd 3: 1dc into next st, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 10 sts, 5dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 10 sts, [2dc into next st, 1dc into next st] 5 times, dc5tog over next 5 sts, [1dc into next st, 2dc into next st] 4 times, join, turn (56).
Rnd 4: ch 2, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 2 sts] 3 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into next st, dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1dc into next st, 2dc into next st, [1dc into each of next 2 sts, 2dc into next st] 4 times, 1dc into each of next 12 sts, 5dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 12 sts, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 2 sts, join, turn (68).
Fasten off yarn B and weave in tail.
Center Body – Rounds 5 to 10:
Join yarn A (pink) using the same method as before.
Rnd 5: 1dc into each of next 3 sts, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 14 sts, 5dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 14 sts, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 3 sts] 4 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into next st, dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1dc into next st, 2dc into next st, [1dc into each of next 3 sts, 2dc into next st] 3 times, join, turn (80).
Rnd 6: ch 2, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 4 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 15 sts, 2dc into next st, [1dc into each of next 4 sts, 2dc into next st] 2 times, 1dc into each of next 21 sts, 5dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 21 sts, join, turn (90).
Fasten off yarn A and weave in tail. Join yarn B using the same method as before.
Rnd 7: 1dc into each of next 23 sts, 5dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 23 sts, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 5 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 17 sts, 2dc into next st, [1dc into each of next 5 sts, 2dc into next st] 2 times, join, turn (100).
Rnd 8: ch 2, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 6 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 19 sts, 2dc into next st, [1dc into each of next 6 sts, 2dc into next st] 2 times, 1dc into each of next 25 sts, 5dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 25 sts, join, turn (110).
Fasten off yarn B and weave in tail. Join yarn A using the same method as before.
Rnd 9: 1dc into each of next 27 sts, 5dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 27 sts, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 7 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 21 sts, 2dc into next st, [1dc into each of next 7 sts, 2dc into next st] 2 times, join, turn (120).
Rnd 10: ch 2, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 8 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 23 sts, 2dc into next st, [1dc into each of next 8 sts, 2dc into next st] 2 times, 1dc into each of next 29 sts, 5dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 29 sts, join, turn (130).
Fasten off yarn A and weave in tail.
Crochet Heart Sweater – Continuing Sides:
Instead of full rounds, you will now be working partial rows that are mirrored on either side of the crochet heart sweater.
Begin by adding stitch markers to the top and bottom of the sweater to prepare for row 11.
Add one stitch marker to the middle, or 3rd, double crochet in the 5 double crochet (worked into the same stitch) sequence at the bottom of the heart sweater.
Then, add another stitch marker into the middle, or 12th, double crochet in the 23 double crochet sequence making up the flat edge at the top of the heart sweater.
Count 6 stitches outward on either side from this middle stitch on the top of the heart sweater and add 2 more stitch markers into these stitches. You may then remove the middle stitch marker.
You should now have 1 stitch marker at the bottom tip of the heart sweater, and 2 stitch markers, separated by 11 stitches between them, across the top of the sweater.
These 3 stitch markers denote the first and last stitches that should be worked into during each side of row 11. Do not remove the stitch markers until later, when adding the ribbing.
For simplicity, the following pattern instructions are given for completing one full side first, before starting the other side.
However, you may also alternate between sides and add on to the heart sweater evenly, if you prefer. Choose whichever method is best for you!
Again, just be sure to always work new rows with the ‘wrong side’ of the previous round facing you. Do not forget to turn your work!
Additionally, because the following instructions are worked on opposite sides for left-handed and right-handed crocheters, the following patterns for each side will be referred to as the ‘dominant side,’ and the ‘non-dominant side,’ rather than simply ‘left side,’ or ‘right side.’
The term ‘dominant’ will refer to whichever hand is your dominant hand. In other words, with the wrong side of round 10 facing you, the pattern for the dominant side will be on the left side of the sweater for lefties, and on the right side for righties.
Rows 11 to 17 (Dominant Side):
With the wrong side of round 10 facing you, begin your first stitch in row 11 in the marked stitch at the bottom of the sweater, and end your last stitch in the first marked stitch (rightmost for righties, leftmost for lefties) at the top of the sweater.
Do not remove the stitch markers yet, as you will be using them for reference later, when adding ribbing.
As always, be sure to begin your new rows with the ‘wrong side’ of the previous round facing you. Do not forget to turn your work between rows!
Join yarn B (burgundy) with a slip stitch into the marked stitch at the bottom of the sweater and chain 2. Begin the first stitch in the row in the same marked stitch.
Row 11-D: dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 29 sts, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 9 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 5 sts, dc2tog over next 2 sts, turn (60).
Row 12-D: ch 2, dc2tog over next 2 sts, 1dc into each of next 5 sts, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 10 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 27 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts, turn (60).
Fasten off yarn B and weave in tails.
Join yarn A (pink) with a slip stitch into the last stitch of row 12 and chain 2. Begin the first stitch in the row in the same stitch as the slip stitch.
Row 13-D: dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 25 sts, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 11 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 5 sts, dc2tog over next 2 sts, turn (60).
Row 14-D: ch 2, dc2tog over next 2 sts, 1dc into each of next 5 sts, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 12 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 23 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts, turn (60).
Fasten off yarn A and weave in tails.
Join yarn B (burgundy) with a slip stitch into the last stitch of row 14 and chain 2. Begin the first stitch in the row in the same stitch as the slip stitch.
Row 15-D: dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 21 sts, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 13 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 7 sts, turn (61).
Row 16-D: ch 2, 1dc into each of next 8 sts, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 14 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 19 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts, turn (62).
Fasten off yarn B and weave in tails.
Join yarn A (pink) with a slip stitch into the last stitch of row 16 and chain 2. Begin the first stitch in the row in the same stitch as the slip stitch.
Row 17-D: dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 17 sts, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 15 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 9 sts (63).
Fasten off yarn A and weave in tails. Follow the instructions below for filling in rows 11 to 17 on the other side before continuing.
Rows 11 to 17 (Non-Dominant Side):
With the wrong side of round 10 facing you, begin your first stitch in row 11 in the second marked stitch (leftmost for righties, rightmost for lefties) at the top of the sweater, and end your last stitch in the marked stitch at the bottom of the sweater.
Do not remove the stitch markers yet, as you will be using them for reference later, when adding ribbing.
As always, be sure to begin your new rows with the ‘wrong side’ of the previous round facing you. Do not forget to turn your work between rows!
Join yarn B (burgundy) with a slip stitch into the marked stitch at the top of the sweater and chain 2. Begin the first stitch in the row in the same marked stitch.
Row 11-ND: dc2tog over next 2 sts, 1dc into each of next 5 sts, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 9 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 29 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts, turn (60).
Row 12-ND: ch 2, dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 27 sts, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 10 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 5 sts, dc2tog over next 2 sts, turn (60).
Fasten off yarn B and weave in tails.
Join yarn A (pink) with a slip stitch into the last stitch of row 12 and chain 2. Begin the first stitch in the row in the same stitch as the slip stitch.
Row 13-ND: dc2tog over next 2 sts, 1dc into each of next 5 sts, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 11 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 25 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts, turn (60).
Row 14-ND: ch 2, dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 23 sts, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 12 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 5 sts, dc2tog over next 2 sts, turn (60).
Fasten off yarn A and weave in tails.
Join yarn B (burgundy) with a slip stitch into the last stitch of row 14 and chain 2. Work the first stitch in the row in the same stitch as the slip stitch.
Row 15-ND: 1dc into each of next 7 sts, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 13 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 21 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts, turn (61).
Row 16-ND: ch 2, dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 19 sts, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 14 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 8 sts, turn (62).
Fasten off yarn B and weave in tails.
Join yarn A (pink) with a slip stitch into the last stitch of row 16 and chain 2. Work the first stitch in the row in the same stitch as the slip stitch.
Row 17-ND: 1dc into each of next 9 sts, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 15 sts] 2 times, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 17 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts (63).
Fasten off yarn A and weave in tails. Set aside for now.
Repeat all steps from round 1 to row 17 to make a second crochet heart sweater panel before continuing.
Crochet Heart Sweater – Joining Panels:
Once you’ve completed two identical crochet heart sweater panels, you will now be joining them at the shoulders into one long strip.
Begin by adding stitch markers onto the shoulders of each panel. Add one stitch marker to both innermost stitches on each side at the top of the neckline (the first stitch of row 11-ND and the last stitch of row 11-D).
Then, count 9 stitches outward and add a second stitch marker to each side, for a total of 10 stitches from stitch marker to stitch marker on each shoulder.
Layer both panels together so that the ‘right side’ of the stitches of your last rows are facing outwards, and so that both pairs of shoulders and all marked stitches are aligned together.
With yarn A (pink), make a slip knot. Working through both layers simultaneously, slip stitch from stitch marker to stitch marker across each shoulder to connect both panels.
After connecting the shoulders, you may then remove the innermost four stitch markers, along the neckline (at the shoulders only, do not remove the the markers from round 10 at the bottom of the neckline).
However, do not remove the outermost four stitch markers, along the outside of the shoulders. You will still be working into these stitches later.
From this point on, the side currently facing you is now the interior of the sweater. You will still continue to flip your work back and forth, so take care to note that the side in which your slip stitch seams are visible should be on the inside of your final sweater.
Now, flip your work and rotate it so that you may work along one of the long and wavy edges of the sweater, and continue to row 18.
Crochet Heart Sweater – Row 18:
Choose whichever side of the sweater you want to work on first. You will be working row 18 along the entirety of the long, wavy edge of the side of the sweater, where both panels are now joined together.
As always, double check that the ‘wrong side’ of the row beneath, where you’ll be working into, is facing you.
Join yarn A (pink) with a slip stitch into the rightmost (or leftmost, for lefties) corner stitch of the long edge of the sweater and chain 2. Begin the first stitch in the row in the same stitch as the slip stitch.
Row 18: dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 15 sts, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 16 sts, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 17 sts, dc2tog over next 2 marked sts, 1dc into each of next 17 sts, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 16 sts, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 15 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts, turn (107).
Fasten off yarn A and weave in tails. Remove the stitch markers from the center of your row.
Crochet Heart Sweater – Straightening Out Sides:
The next 4-6 rows will be worked in 3 separate sections. Make sure the wrong side of the last row is facing you, and notice the 3 dips in the pattern along the long edge you’ve just worked.
Count 18 stitches inward from the right corner and place a stitch marker into this stitch (for a total of 18 stitches from stitch marker to corner stitch). Do the same on the left side.
In the center cutout, count 19 stitches outwards on either side from the center stitch (the dc2tog of row 18) and place 2 more stitch markers into these stitches (for a total of 39 stitches from stitch marker to stitch marker).
Do not remove the stitch markers after working into them, as you will be working into them again in row 25.
Follow all 3 separate sections below to fill in each of these 3 cutouts (left, center, and right) until you create a straight edge along the entire length.
Again, don’t forget to always start with the ‘wrong side’ of the last row (that you’ll be working your new row into) facing towards you!
Left and Right Cutouts – Rows 19 to 22 (LR):
For righties, you will begin with the right cutout. For lefties, you will begin with the left cutout.
Join yarn B (burgundy) with a slip stitch into the rightmost (or leftmost, for lefties) corner stitch of the cutout and chain 2. Begin the first stitch in the row in the same stitch as the slip stitch.
Your last stitch in row 19 should end in the stitch you have marked previously. Do not remove the stitch marker after row 19, as you will be working into this stitch again in row 25.
Row 19-LR: dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 12 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts, turn (14).
Row 20-LR: dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 8 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts, turn (10).
Row 21-LR: dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 4 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts, turn (6).
Row 22-LR: [dc3tog over next 3 sts] 2 times (2).
Fasten off yarn B and weave in tails.
Now, repeat rows 19 to 22 on the opposite side of your sweater, this time with row 19 beginning in your marked stitch and ending in the bottom corner stitch of the cutout.
Lastly, follow the instructions for filling in the center cutout below before continuing to row 25.
Center Cutout – Rows 19 to 24 (C):
With the ‘wrong side’ of the last row (that you’ll be working your new row into) facing towards you, begin row 19 of your center cutout in the marked stitch closest to your dominant hand.
Righties will begin in the rightmost marked stitch and lefties will begin in the leftmost stitch. The last stitch of row 19 should end in the other marked stitch.
Do not remove either of the stitch markers after row 19, as you will be working into these stitches again in row 25.
Join yarn B (burgundy) with a slip stitch into the appropriate marked stitch and chain 2. Begin the first stitch in the row in the same stitch as the slip stitch.
Row 19-C: [dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 15 sts] 2 times, dc3tog over next 3 sts, turn (33).
Row 20-C: [dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 12 sts] 2 times, dc3tog over next 3 sts, turn (27).
Row 21-C: [dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 9 sts] 2 times, dc3tog over next 3 sts, turn (21).
Row 22-C: [dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 6 sts] 2 times, dc3tog over next 3 sts, turn (15).
Row 23-C: [dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 3 sts] 2 times, dc3tog over next 3 sts, turn (9).
Row 24-C: [dc3tog over next 3 sts] 3 times (3).
Fasten off yarn B and weave in tails.
Repeat all rows from 18 to 24 on the opposite side of your sweater before continuing.
Crochet Heart Sweater – Extending Sides:
After both sides of your sweater have been completed and shaped into straight edges, it is now time to extend the sides into your final desired size.
Choose which side you would like to start on. You will now be adding on a straight row of double crochet along the entire length of your new straight edge.
As you’ll notice, there is not a perfect sequence of stitches to work into across the side of the sweater, so take extra care to work into the sweater in the following manner.
Before you begin, make sure that the wrong side of row 18 (the last pink row) is facing you. These remaining stitches of row 18 will be worked into as normal, including the marked stitches at the corners of the cutouts. Do not skip these 4 marked stitches!
The 2 stitches on either end of the sweater, from row 22 of the left and right cutouts, as well as the 3 stitches in the center, from row 24 of the center cutout, will also be worked into as normal.
For the rest of the length of the sweater, you will be working 2 double crochet into each row, around the outermost double crochet. If the side of a row is exposed, it should be worked into even if you are also working into the top of that stitch.
When done correctly, your final count for row 25 will be 83 stitches. If you get a different count and are not bothered by the error, just be sure that you work the same amount of stitches into the opposite side of your sweater to prevent a lopsided finish.
Join yarn B (burgundy) with a slip stitch into the rightmost stitch (leftmost for lefties) of row 22 of the right (or left) cutout and chain 2. Work the first stitch in the row in the same stitch as the slip stitch.
Row 25: 1dc into each of next 2 sts, 2dc into side of each of next 4 rows, 1dc into marked st, 1dc into each of next 16 sts, 1dc into marked st, 2dc into side of each of next 6 rows, 1dc into each of next 3 sts, 2dc into each of next 6 rows, 1dc into marked st, 1dc into each of next 16 sts, 1dc into marked st, 2dc into side of each of next 4 rows, 1dc into each of next 2 sts, turn (83).
For size Large/X-Large (as seen in the example photo), fasten off yarn B and weave in tails. Repeat row 25 on the opposite side of the sweater, then skip to the side seams and sleeves instructions.
For larger sizes, continue below.
Row 26: ch 2, 1dc into each st across, turn (83).
Row 27: ch 2, 1dc into each st across, turn (83).
Repeat row 26 and 27, ending on a repetition of row 27, as many times as you’d like until you reach your desired size.
To check your size at any point, simply measure from the center of the sweater to the edge of your last row, then multiply by 4 for the total circumference of the body of the sweater.
If you are following our recommended gauge and size chart from the sizing instructions, you may fasten off after row 29 for size 2X/3X (57 inches), or row 33 for size 4X/5X (66 inches).
Repeat all rows for extending sides on the opposite edge of the sweater, then continue to the instructions for side seams and sleeves.
You may also remove all stitch markers from the sides of the sweater. Do not remove the stitch markers around the neckline.
Crochet Heart Sweater – Side Seams and Sleeves:
After both sides of your crochet heart sweater have been extended to your desired size, it is time to join the side seams and begin the sleeves.
Begin by counting up each side of the sweater from the bottom corners and adding a stitch marker into the 16th stitch.
Then, fold the sweater in half, matching both bottom edges together, so that the interior of the sweater is facing outwards. Remember, the interior side is the side from which you slip stitched across the shoulder seams!
Choose which side of the crochet heart sweater you would like to seam and add a sleeve to first. Make sure both bottom corners are matched together and the marked stitches are aligned.
With yarn B (burgundy), make a slip knot. Working through both layers simultaneously, slip stitch through each pair of stitches, from the corner stitches to the stitch markers (ending in the marked stitches, for a total of 16 stitches), up the side of the sweater to connect both layers.
Chain 2. Do not remove your stitch markers. Add another stitch marker into your working loop and turn your sweater right-side-out, so that your seam is on the inside.
Double check that your working yarn hasn’t become stuck feeding through the new armhole. If needed, pass your skein through the armhole so that it can be worked with freely.
Remove the stitch marker from your working loop and return your hook. As always, the wrong side of the last row should be facing you as you continue onto round 1 of the sleeve.
Sleeves – Rounds 1 to 25:
You will now be working the rounds of the sleeve around the new armhole you’ve just created.
Please note, for the following rounds of the sleeve, your turning chains will now count as your first double crochets of the round (including the chain 2 you’ve just created).
Therefore, the first stitch of each round should be worked into the stitch after the one you’ve just slip stitched into to join the previous round.
Rnd 1: 1dc into next marked st, 1dc into each of next 51 sts, 1dc into next marked st, sl st into top of ch 2 to join, turn (54).
You may now remove the stitch markers beneath your last round.
Rnd 2: ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), 1dc into each of next 53 sts, join, turn (54).
Rnd 3: ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), 1dc into each of next 53 sts, join, turn (54).
Rnd 4 to 23: repeat rnds 2 and 3, 10 more times, for a total of 23 rnds (54).
Before continuing, check now to make sure that your sleeve is approximately 3 inches (if working with the recommended gauge) short of where you would like them to end.
If they are not, you may adjust the length of your sleeve by add or subtracting rounds. Just be sure that your last round remains a repetition of round 3 (the right side of the stitches are facing outwards).
Rnd 24: ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), 1dc into each of next 6 sts, dc2tog over next 2 sts, [1dc into each of next 7 sts, dc2tog over next 2 sts] 5 times, join, turn (48).
Rnd 25: ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), 1dc into each of next 5 sts, dc2tog over next 2 sts, [1dc into each of next 6 sts, dc2tog over next 2 sts] 5 times, join, do not turn (42).
Do not fasten off. You will be working the cuffs right off of round 25 of the sleeve. Read the ribbing instructions below to learn how to add on your cuff.
Once you complete your sleeve, repeat all steps for the side seam and sleeve on the opposite side of your sweater.
Finally, finish off your sweater with the neck cuff and the bottom ribbing, as outlined below!
How to Add Ribbing (The Virkadia Method):
This free crochet heart sweater uses our very own original ribbing method. The Virkadia ribbing method has three variations, depending on the amount of cinching you are aiming to achieve.
Instructions for our unique method of adding ribbing can be found in the next sections below, but we will first review the recommended ribbing for each section of the heart sweater. You may follow along for an exact match to the example sweater, or customize your ribbing to your own unique fit!
The example crochet heart sweater shown in pictures utilizes the 3-stitch join method for both sleeve cuffs. Working directly off of the end of your sleeve, work an unmodified 3-stitch join ribbing all the way around, for a total of 14 ribs (28 rows) on your cuff.
Alternatively, you can also customize your sleeve cuff to be boxier or tighter by replacing some ribs with the 2-stitch or 4-stitch join ribbing, respectively. Just be sure that the total count of stitches worked into the body at the end equals out to 42.
Once both sleeves and sleeve cuffs are completed, you may move on to the neck cuff and the bottom ribbing in whichever order suits you!
For the neck cuff shown in pictures, start in the center back of the neck and begin with a 3-stitch join rib, then a 2-stitch join rib. You will alternate between the 3-stitch and 2-stitch join methods around the entire neckline. Do not work into the marked stitches.
Once again, you will be working into the top of some stitches, as well as the sides of some rows. As you did in row 25, when extending the sides of the sweater, you should continue to treat each edge of a row as 2 stitches.
Keep alternating around the entire circumference of the neck, skipping the 4 marked stitches, ending with a 3-stitch join rib, for a total of 31 ribs around.
Optionally, if you are concerned about getting confused, you can work one round of single crochets around the entire neckline, then work your ribbing into the single crochets instead.
For this method, begin in the center back of the neck and work 1 single crochet into each normal stitch, 2 single crochet into the side of each row (around the first/last double crochet) and skip all 4 marked stitches, for a total of 78 stitches. After joining, chain and work your ribbing as normal, connecting your ribs into the round of single crochets you’ve just made, instead.
For the bottom ribbing shown in pictures, start in the center back of the bottom edge of the heart sweater and work an unmodified 2-stitch join rib around the entire bottom circumference of the sweater. Do not work into marked stitches.
Once again, you will be working into the top of some stitches, as well as the sides of some rows. As you did in row 25, when extending the sides of the heart sweater, you should continue to treat each edge of a row as 2 stitches.
As with the neck cuff, if you are concerned about getting confused, you can work one round of single crochets around the entire bottom edge, then work your ribbing into the single crochets instead.
If you are following the exact instructions given for the recommended sizes in the size chart, you should end with 52 ribs (104 rows) for L/XL, 68 ribs (136 rows) for 2X/3X, or 84 ribs (168 rows) for 4X/5X.
While this pattern does not call for the 4-stitch join ribbing, it still remains an option for anyone looking for a more dramatic cinch in any of the cuffs. Therefore, instructions for this method are still included below as an available alternative.
2-Stitch Join Ribbing:
Flat edges where you want minimal to no cinching should use the 2-stitch join ribbing method. The unmodified 2-stitch join method is recommended around the bottom edge of the crochet heart sweater.
Insert your hook into the first stitch of the edge that you want to add ribbing to. With your chosen yarn, pull up a loop. Then, yarn over both ends (your beginning tail and your normal working yarn) and pull through.
Pull the loop on your hook that is your beginning tail until the end comes out. Then, pull on the chain you’ve just made until it is tight. You will not work into this stitch again and it should not be included in your stitch count.
For the following ribbing instructions, the ‘body’ will refer to the piece of crochet that you are working your rib cuff onto. The first stitch worked into the body should be the same stitch where you’ve joined your yarn.
Chain 7, or as many stitches wide as your want your cuff, plus one. For the best results, work your first row into the back bars of your chain.
Row 1: 1hdc into the 2nd ch from hook and each ch across until 1 ch is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next ch and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and all 3 loops on hook, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 2: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 3: 1hdc into each sl st across until 1 st is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next sl st and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and all 3 loops on hook, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 4: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Repeat rows 3 and 4 around the circumference of your edge until you end up back to the first row, ending with a repetition of row 4.
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Sew the last row and first row together and secure with a knot on the interior of your work. Trim your tail and sew in any remaining length.
3-Stitch Join Ribbing:
For rounded areas that you want to have moderate cinching, the 3-stitch join ribbing method adds a beautiful but gentle curve to your finished crochet piece. The unmodified 3-stitch join method is recommended for the sleeve cuffs of the crochet heart sweater.
If you are working directly off of the last round of the sleeve, skip to the instructions after the next image.
Insert your hook into the first stitch of the edge that you want to add ribbing to. With your chosen yarn, pull up a loop. Then, yarn over both ends (your beginning tail and your normal working yarn) and pull through.
Pull the loop on your hook that is your beginning tail until the end comes out. Then, pull on the chain you’ve just made until it is tight. You will not work into this stitch again and it should not be included in your stitch count.
For the following ribbing instructions, the ‘body’ will refer to the end of the sleeve that you are working your rib cuff onto. The first stitch worked into the body should be the same stitch where you’ve joined your yarn.
Chain 7, or as many stitches wide as your want your cuff, plus one. For the best results, work your first row into the back bars of your chain.
Row 1: 1hdc into the 2nd ch from hook and each ch across until 1 ch is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next ch and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and all 3 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and loop on hook, turn (6).
Row 2: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 3: 1hdc into each sl st across until 1 st is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next sl st and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and all 3 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and loop on hook, turn (6).
Row 4: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Repeat rows 3 and 4 around the circumference of your edge until you end up back to the first row, ending with a repetition of row 4.
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Sew the last row and first row together and secure with a knot on the interior of your work. Trim your tail and sew in any remaining length.
4-Stitch Join Ribbing:
For sharper curved angles where extra cinching is needed, the 4-stitch join ribbing is ideal. While this pattern does not call for the 4-stitch join ribbing, it still remains an option for anyone looking for a more dramatic cinch in any of the cuffs.
Insert your hook into the first stitch of the edge that you want to add ribbing to. With your chosen yarn, pull up a loop. Then, yarn over both ends (your beginning tail and your normal working yarn) and pull through.
Pull the loop on your hook that is your beginning tail until the end comes out. Then, pull on the chain you’ve just made until it is tight. You will not work into this stitch again and it should not be included in your stitch count.
For the following ribbing instructions, the ‘body’ will refer to the piece of crochet that you are working your rib cuff onto. The first stitch worked into the body should be the same stitch where you’ve joined your yarn.
Chain 7, or as many stitches wide as your want your cuff, plus one. For the best results, work your first row into the back bars of your chain.
Row 1: 1hdc into the 2nd ch from hook and each ch across until 1 ch is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next ch and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and first 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and last 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and loop on hook, turn (6).
Row 2: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 3: 1hdc into each sl st across until 1 st is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next sl st and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and first 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and last 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and loop on hook, turn (6).
Row 4: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Repeat rows 3 and 4 around the circumference of your edge until you end up back to the first row, ending with a repetition of row 4.
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Sew the last row and first row together and secure with a knot on the interior of your work. Trim your tail and sew in any remaining length.
Conclusion | Free Crochet Heart Sweater
Seams joined, cuffs added, and all loose ends weaved in? Congratulations, you’re all done!
If you’ve enjoyed this free crochet heart sweater pattern, check out our other original clothing patterns, the Crochet Patchwork Cardigan, and the Crochet Patchwork Sweater!
You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for our original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!
If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!
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