Prepare to wrap yourself in all the best feelings of autumn coziness with our oversized crochet patchwork cardigan pattern. This stylish and comfortable cardigan boasts big sleeves and pockets large enough to carry everything you need for a nature stroll, making it the perfect companion for crisp fall days and chilly evenings.
Inspired by the rich and earthy hues of the autumn season, this patchwork cardigan is made up of colorful Virkadia Squares and our own unique ribbing technique, both original designs by Virkadia!
The plush density of each square makes this cardigan perfect for keeping out the bitter breeze of approaching winter months, and will keep you feeling warm and cozy even when the snow starts to fall.
So grab your crochet hook, choose your favorite autumn shades, and let’s get started on this satisfying project that’s as enjoyable to make as it is to wear!
Pattern Information | Free Crochet Patchwork Cardigan
Supplies:
This list contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase using one of the links below, I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you). Thank you for supporting our small business!
- Size L-11 (8 mm) crochet hook or K-10.5 (6.5 mm) crochet hook (refer to sizing instructions for required hook size)
- Medium weight yarn in 10 colors (refer to sizing instructions for required yardages):
- Yarn A – medium brown (example uses Caron One Pound: Truffle)
- Yarn B – dark green (example uses [DISCONTINUED]—recommended replacement is Red Heart Super Saver: Hunter Green)
- Yarn C – dark brown (example uses Craft Smart Value: Espresso)
- Yarn D – medium green (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Medium Thyme)
- Yarn E – red (example uses Craft Smart Value: Clay)
- Yarn F – yellow (example uses Caron One Pound: Dijon [DISCONTINUED]—recommended replacement is Red Heart Super Saver: Cornmeal)
- Yarn G – coral (example uses Craft Smart Value: Ginger)
- Yarn H – gold (example uses Caron One Pound: Golden [DISCONTINUED]—recommended replacement is Red Heart Super Saver: Gold)
- Yarn I – black (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Black)
- Yarn J – burgundy (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Claret)
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch Markers (optional)
Terminology:
This free crochet patchwork cardigan pattern uses English (US) terminology:
- st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- dc3tog = double crochet 3 together (over the span of 3 stitches)
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.
Unless otherwise specified, each round will always begin in the same stitch as your joining slip stitch.
Crochet Patchwork Cardigan – Sizing Instructions:
This free crochet patchwork cardigan pattern comes with instructions for 4 different sizes: small/medium, large/XL, 2X/3X, and 4X/5X. Use the table below to choose the best size for you, according to your hip measurement.
The cardigan shown in pictures is made in the size large/XL, and is modeled on a body that is 5 feet and 3 inches tall.
Note: if you are customizing this patchwork cardigan pattern to be shorter (higher than your hips) you may use your chest measurement for sizing instead.
For other sizes, this pattern is easily adaptable and customizable! Sizes can be altered either by adding more or fewer squares to your pattern, or by changing your yarn weight and gauge.
Size small/medium has a hip circumference of 42 inches. Please use a size K/10.5 (6.5 mm) crochet hook and follow diagram 1 for pattern layout.
Size large/X-large has a hip circumference of 48 inches. Please use a size L/11 (8 mm) crochet hook and follow diagram 1 for pattern layout.
Size 2X/3X has a hip circumference of 56 inches. Please use a size K/10.5 (6.5 mm) crochet hook and follow diagram 2 for pattern layout.
Size 4X/5X has a hip circumference of 64 inches. Please use a size L/11 (8 mm) crochet hook and follow diagram 2 for pattern layout.
Gauges:
Please refer to the size chart above to find the appropriate hook size and gauge for your particular size.
For sizes S/M and 2X/3X, you will be using the gauge on the left. Using a size K/10.5 – 6.5 mm hook, crochet a standard Virkadia Square. Your square should measure roughly 3.5 inches by 3.5 inches.
For sizes L/XL and 4X/5X, you will be using the gauge on the right. Using a size L/11 – 8 mm hook, crochet a standard Virkadia Square. Your square should measure roughly 4 inches by 4 inches.
Please note, that while working with this gauge, you might feel like your hook is too large for your yarn but resist the urge to downsize your hook or use thicker yarn!
The loose tension is what will allowed your piece to have a better drape and keep it from feeling too stiff and unnatural to wear.
Refer to the appropriate diagram below, according to your size, for the exact number of squares of each type and color you will need, as well as required yardages.
Diagram 1 (Sizes S/M and L/XL):
Sleeves lengths, measuring from the neck ribbing to the sleeve cuff, are 22.75 inches for size small/medium, and 26 for size medium/large.
For longer sleeves, replace all the tapered squares at the end of the sleeves in the diagram with standard squares. Then, add the tapered squares seen under ‘extended sleeves’ onto the ends of their respective sleeves.
Refer to the graph above for the exact number of each type of square of each color you will need. Required yarn yardages are shown for each size in the table above, as well.
You may use any medium weight yarn for this project, and this pattern is especially great for scrap yarn or stash busting! However, exact colors and brands used in the example cardigan are listed below for those who want an exact replica.
This list contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase using one of the links below, I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you). Thank you for supporting our small business!
- Yarn A – Caron One Pound: Truffle
- Yarn B – [DISCONTINUED]—recommended replacement is Red Heart Super Saver: Hunter Green
- Yarn C – Craft Smart Value: Espresso
- Yarn D – Red Heart Super Saver: Medium Thyme
- Yarn E – Craft Smart Value: Clay
- Yarn F – Caron One Pound: Dijon [DISCONTINUED]—recommended replacement is Red Heart Super Saver: Cornmeal
- Yarn G – Craft Smart Value: Ginger
- Yarn H – Caron One Pound: Golden [DISCONTINUED]—recommended replacement is Red Heart Super Saver: Gold
- Yarn I – Red Heart Super Saver: Black
- Yarn J – Red Heart Super Saver: Claret
Diagram 2 (Sizes 2X/3X and 4X/5X)
Sleeves lengths, measuring from the neck ribbing to the sleeve cuff, are 22.75 inches for size 2X/3X, and 26 for size 4X/5X.
For longer sleeves, replace all the tapered squares at the end of the sleeves in the diagram with standard squares. Then, add the tapered squares seen under ‘extended sleeves’ onto the ends of their respective sleeves.
Refer to the graph above for the exact number of each type of square of each color you will need. Required yarn yardages are shown for each size in the table above, as well.
You may use any medium weight yarn for this project, and this pattern is especially great for scrap yarn or stash busting! However, exact colors and brands used in the example cardigan are listed below for those who want an exact replica.
This list contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase using one of the links below, I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you). Thank you for supporting our small business!
- Yarn A – Caron One Pound: Truffle
- Yarn B – [DISCONTINUED]—recommended replacement is Red Heart Super Saver: Hunter Green
- Yarn C – Craft Smart Value: Espresso
- Yarn D – Red Heart Super Saver: Medium Thyme
- Yarn E – Craft Smart Value: Clay
- Yarn F – Caron One Pound: Dijon [DISCONTINUED]—recommended replacement is Red Heart Super Saver: Cornmeal
- Yarn G – Craft Smart Value: Ginger
- Yarn H – Caron One Pound: Golden [DISCONTINUED]—recommended replacement is Red Heart Super Saver: Gold
- Yarn I – Red Heart Super Saver: Black
- Yarn J – Red Heart Super Saver: Claret
Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Patchwork Cardigan
How to Crochet the Virkadia Square:
Please note that the tutorials below will be showing you the front, or ‘right side,’ of the crochet. The example cardigan above, however, is constructed with the back, or ‘wrong side,’ of each square facing outwards.
You may choose whichever side of the Virkadia Square that better suits your aesthetic preference! Just remember, when you’re assembling your cardigan, to make sure that all squares are facing the same way as each other.
The Patchwork Cardigan is made with four different variations of the Virkadia Square. You can learn more about our original design for this square through our dedicated Virkadia Square post.
The majority of this free crochet patchwork cardigan pattern is made up of the standard square, which is the normal square shape.
The second shape you will be using is the tapered square variant. This alternative square is used along the end of each sleeve to create a more gentle curve towards the sleeve cuff. If desired, it may be replaced with standard squares if you are looking to achieve a boxier sleeve shape!
The third shape used in this pattern is the half-square variant. This rectangle-shaped patch will be used along the inside of the front panels of the cardigan.
Lastly, two squares in the cardigan will be made from the inside curve variant. These two alternative squares, found at the center top of the back panel, create a perfect curve around the neck.
Refer to the Sizing Instructions section above for the exact number of each kind and color of square you will need.
The Virkadia Square – Standard:
With your chosen yarn, make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1)
Rnd 1: [1sc into ring, 1dc into ring] 4 times, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (8).
Rnd 2: [1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (16).
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 4: [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (32).
Rnd 5: [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st] 4 times, join (40).
Fasten off and weave in tails.
The Virkadia Square – Tapered Variant:
The tapered variant of the Virkadia Square may look intimidating, but it is actually worked just like the standard square, with two notable exceptions.
The first is that in rounds 3, 4, and 5, the last two corners are each moved over one stitch closer towards each other. The second is that in rounds 3 and 5 (but not 4), the last two corners are worked as (1dc, 1sc, 1dc) instead of (1sc, 1dc, 1sc).
When in doubt, just remember to always work single crochets into double crochets and double crochets into single crochets, except for corners.
Corners are worked as (1sc, 1dc, 1sc), except for the last two corners of rounds 3 and 5, which are (1dc, 1sc, 1dc). And lastly, the first two corners of each round are worked normally, while the last two corners should be separated by only 1 stitch in each round.
With your chosen yarn, make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1)
Rnd 1: [1sc into ring, 1dc into ring] 4 times, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (8).
Rnd 2: [1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (16).
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st] 2 times, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, [1sc into next st, (1dc, 1sc, 1dc) into next st] 2 times, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 4: [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, [1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st] 2 times, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (32).
Rnd 5: [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st] 2 times, [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st] 3 times, [1sc into next st, (1dc, 1sc, 1dc) into next st] 2 times, [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (40).
Fasten off and weave in tails.
Please note that when you join these tapered squares together later (see Joining Squares section), the first and last stitches you will be joining on each tapered end are the outer-most double crochets in each (1dc, 1sc, 1dc) cluster along the shortest edge.
This will leave you with 7 stitches left on each square for adding the cuff (including the first/last two stitches you join in each seam), or 42 stitches around in total. As an option, you may mark these stitches with stitch markers to save yourself some time finding them later.
The Virkadia Square – Half-Square Variant:
This variant is worked similarly to the standard square, except that it is not worked from a center ring. Instead, it is worked around both sides of a chain to create its elongated shape.
With your chosen yarn, chain 8.
Rnd 1: Beginning in 2nd ch from hook, *(1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc) into next st,* working into other side of ch sts, repeat from * to * 1 time, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (20).
Rnd 2: [1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, (1dc into next st, 1sc into next st) 3 times, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st] 2 times, join (28).
Fasten off and weave in tails.
The Virkadia Square – Inside Curve Variant:
Similar to the half-square variant, this L-shaped patch is worked around both sides of a chain to create its elongated shape, but with an added bend in the middle.
At the end of round 2, the yarn is fastened off, then rejoined in the middle of the pattern to work an additional partial round that will add in its perfect curve.
With your chosen yarn, chain 14.
Rnd 1: Beginning in 2nd ch from hook, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc) into next st, working into other side of ch sts, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, dc3tog over next 3 sts, [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st] 2 times, (1sc, 1dc) into next st, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (32).
Rnd 2: 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 3 times, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 3 times, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, dc3tog over next 3 sts, [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st] 2 times, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, join (40).
Fasten off and weave in tails. You should now have an L-shaped rectangle.
Locate your inside corner stitch (where you double crocheted 3 together), and count 4 stitches backwards (not including the inside corner stitch). You will be starting in this stitch and working a partial round to create that perfect curve.
Round 3: sl st into next st, 1sc into next st, 1hdc into next st, dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1hdc into next st, 1sc into next st, sl st into next st (7).
Fasten off and weave in tails.
How to Join Squares (The Flat Slip Stitch Method):
After you’ve completed all of your squares, lay them out in the pattern that correlates with your size. Refer to the diagram for your individual size in the Sizing Instructions section under Pattern Information.
Make sure to flip all of your squares to the same side. The side of each square that you want to be front-facing should be currently facing you.
The example cardigan in photos uses the back sides of each patch, but you may choose whichever side fits your aesthetic preference.
With your pattern laid out flat, you will begin with joining all the squares in vertical columns first, then go back to join each of the horizontal rows.
Lastly, you will convert your flat pattern into the final rounded cardigan shape by joining up the side seams and the underarms.
Additionally, when working the flat slip stitches, make sure not to work your slip stitches too tightly!
Joining your squares with too tight of tension will cause your squares to puff out and your garment will be unable to drape effectively.
If you find that your squares are puffing out as you join them together, try loosening your tension or sizing up your hook for the duration of this joining method.
Joining Squares (Vertically):
Begin by picking up your first two squares that you want to join together. I recommend starting with your left-most two columns of squares (or right-most for lefties). Be sure to keep them arranged in the same manner that you want them to be joined.
With the yarn color that you want to use for your joining seams, create a slip knot on your hook. As you work your seams, allow your working tail to travel behind your work. Your active loop and hook will remain in front of your work.
Starting with your left square, insert your hook into the back loop only of the bottom right corner stitch. Do not pull through.
Then, into your right square, insert your hook into the back loop only of the bottom left corner stitch.
Pull up a loop through both stitches, as well as through the loop on your hook. This completes your first slip stitch join.
Continue working slip stitches through the back loops only of each pair of stitches along your squares, left then right, until you reach the next corners.
After completing the last slip stitch into the corner stitches, retrieve the next two squares in your pattern.
Using the same method as before, insert your hook into the corner stitch of the next left square, then the next right square, and pull through all loops.
Continue working up the seam in the same manner to join all squares in the vertical column of your pattern. After your last slip stitch into the corner stitches of your last two squares, fasten off and weave in tails.
Begin again at the bottom of the strip you’ve just joined and use the same method to attach the next column of squares in your pattern.
Continue until all squares in the flat pattern are connected vertically. After you have joined all vertical columns of your squares, follow the directions below to begin attaching them horizontally before joining up the side seams and underarms.
Joining Squares (Horizontally):
Begin by locating the first two squares that you want to join together horizontally. Rotate your work so that your horizontal rows now become vertical columns, like you’ve worked before.
With your chosen yarn for joining, create a slip knot on your hook. Remember, as you work your seams, allow your working tail to travel behind your work. Your active loop and hook will remain in front of your work.
With your work rotated, insert your hook into the back loop only of the corner stitch of the left square, then the right square, and pull up a loop up through all loops.
Continue working slip stitches through the back loops only of each pair of stitches along your squares, left then right, but stop when you reach the next pair of corner stitches.
For the next pair of corner stitches, you will be working into the front loops only, instead of the back loops.
Insert your hook into the front loop only of the corner stitch of the left square, then the right square, and pull through all loops. Do the same for the next pair of corner stitches.
After completing both corner joins through the front loops only, return to working into the back loops only of each stitch until you reach the next set of corner stitches.
Continue working along the seam in the same manner to join all squares in the horizontal row of your pattern.
On the last two corner stitches in the row, work into the back loops again as you did for the very first corner stitches of the row. Fasten off and weave in tails.
Begin again at the beginning of the strip you’ve just joined and use the same method to attach the next row of squares in your pattern.
It is important to note that when joining the ends of the tapered squares on the sleeves, there are no perfect corners to work into. Instead, the first (or last) stitches you should be joining on each sleeve end are the outer-most double crochets in each (1dc, 1sc, 1dc) cluster!
This will leave you with 7 stitches left on each square for adding the cuff (this includes the first/last two stitches you’ve joined in each seam, which you will still work into when adding the cuff), or 42 stitches around in total.
Continue until all squares in the flat pattern are connected. Once the flat pattern, as seen in the diagram, is finished, you may then fold your pattern in half and join together the side seams and underarms.
How to Add Ribbing (The Virkadia Method):
The patchwork cardigan uses our very own original ribbing method. The Virkadia ribbing method has three variations, depending on the amount of cinching you are aiming to achieve.
Flat edges where you want minimal to no cinching should use the 2-stitch join ribbing method. This variation will be used for the top edge of the pockets, the bottom edge of the patchwork cardigan, and the inside edges of the front panels.
For rounded areas that you want to have moderate cinching, the 3-stitch join ribbing method adds a beautiful but gentle curve to your finished crochet piece. The example piece uses this method for the sleeve cuffs, though you may also use the 2-stitch or 4-stitch method for a looser or tighter cuff, respectively.
For sharper curved angles where extra cinching is needed, the 4-stitch join ribbing is ideal. This patchwork cardigan pattern uses the 4-stitch method around the neckline, along the two inside curve squares, for the perfect rounding of the neck cuff.
Follow along for the appropriate method for each section of your project below!
Flat Edge Ribbing (2-Stitch Join Ribbing):
For the flat edge ribbing, begin with the bottom edge of the patchwork cardigan first, then the inside edges of the front panels.
When working the bottom edge ribbing, start at the bottom right corner (when looking at the cardigan from the front), or bottom left corner for lefties. The inside edge ribbing will be worked directly off of this ribbing (see instructions at the end of this section).
Insert your hook into the corner or first stitch of the edge that you want to add ribbing to. With your chosen yarn, pull up a loop. Then, yarn over both ends (your beginning tail and your normal working yarn) and pull through.
Pull the loop on your hook that is your beginning tail until the end comes out. Then, pull on the chain you’ve just made until it is tight. You will not work into this stitch again and it should not be included in your stitch count.
For the following ribbing instructions, the ‘body’ will refer to the piece of crochet that you are working your ribbed cuff onto. The first stitch worked into the body should be the same stitch where you’ve joined your yarn.
Chain 7, or as many stitches wide as your want your cuff, plus one. For the best results, work your first row into the back bars of your chain.
Row 1: 1hdc into the 2nd ch from hook and each ch across until 1 ch is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next ch and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and all 3 loops on hook, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 2: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 3: 1hdc into each sl st across until 1 st is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next sl st and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and all 3 loops on hook, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 4: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you reach the next corner of the body, ending with a repetition of row 4.
For the pocket cuffs (see How to Add Pockets section at the end), fasten off and weave in ends.
For the bottom edge ribbing, do not fasten off. Rotate your work and you will now be working the same ribbing method up the inside edge of the patchwork cardigan.
Chain 7 (or 6, if you’ve already chained once), and follow the flat edge ribbing instructions from row 1.
Continue up the interior edge of the front of the patchwork cardigan until you reach the point at which your next rib join would fall entirely within the first ‘inside curve variant’ square at the back of the neck.
Continue to the neck cuff ribbing instructions below.
Neck Cuff Ribbing (4-Stitch Join Ribbing):
Now that you’ve reached the first ‘inside curve variant’ square at the neck of the patchwork cardigan, follow the instructions below for the 4-stitch join ribbing below.
Work this method of ribbing until your next rib join would fall entirely back inside a ‘standard’ square.
Row 1: 1hdc into each sl st across until 1 st is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next sl st and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and first 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and last 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and loop on hook, turn (6).
Row 2: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the point in which your next rib join would fall entirely back inside a ‘standard’ square.
At this point, return to the 2-stitch join ribbing method until you reach the bottom left corner (when viewing the patchwork cardigan from the front, or bottom right corner for lefties).
Ending with a repetition of row 4 of the 2-stitch join, fasten off and weave in ends.
Sleeve Cuff Ribbing (3-Stitch Join Ribbing):
If you’ve followed the instructions for joining the squares horizontally correctly, you should have 7 stitches on each tapered square, or 42 stitches around in total, to work your sleeve cuffs onto. If not, don’t fret!
The example patchwork cardigan uses the 3-stitch join method around the entirety of the sleeves for a moderately cinched cuff, but this may be adjusted to your preference (or if you’ve goofed your stitch count)!
For a wider cuff, you may follow the 2-stitch join method that you used for the straight edges of the patchwork cardigan. You may also consider adding some of these ribs if your stitch counts came out short.
Alternatively, for a dramatically cinched cuff, you may use the 4-stitch join. Please note, however, that you will need to include two 3-stitch joins somewhere in the cuff to meet the correct count of 42 stitches in the body (sleeve).
Lastly, if you are looking for a unique or specific circumference of cuff, feel free to mix and match any of the ribbing methods! Simply make sure that the total stitches you are joining into in the body equals out to 42 stitches around (if your stitch counts were correct).
Begin by inserting your hook into any stitch around the end of the sleeve. With your chosen yarn, pull up a loop. Then, yarn over both ends (your beginning tail and your normal working yarn) and pull through.
Pull the loop on your hook that is your beginning tail until the end comes out. Then, pull on the chain you’ve just made until it is tight. You will not work into this stitch again and it should not be included in your stitch count.
For the following ribbing instructions, the ‘body’ will refer to the end of the sleeve that you are working your ribbed cuff onto. The first stitch worked into the body should be the same stitch where you’ve joined your yarn.
Chain 7, or as many stitches wide as your want your cuff, plus one. For the best results, work your first row into the back bars of your chain.
Row 1: 1hdc into the 2nd ch from hook and each ch across until 1 ch is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next ch and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and all 3 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and loop on hook, turn (6).
Row 2: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 3: 1hdc into each sl st across until 1 st is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next sl st and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and all 3 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and loop on hook, turn (6).
Row 4: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until the end of the sleeve, ending with a repetition of row 4. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.
Finish off sleeve by sewing the beginning and end rows together to complete the rounded cuff.
How to Add Pockets:
Adding pockets to the patchwork cardigan is simple and by now you’ve already learned all the skills you’ll need to achieve them!
First, choose which squares you would like to add a pocket onto. Our recommended pocket sizes are 2 squares wide by 2 squares tall, and are located one 1 square up and 1 square in from the bottom and inside edges of the front of the patchwork cardigan.
Once you have decided where you will be placing the pockets, you will then make duplicates of each of the full squares that you will be covering with your pocket.
Follow the instructions for Joining Squares to form your pocket panels. Then refer to the 2-Stitch Join Ribbing section to add a cuff to the top edge of each pocket panel.
When your pockets are complete, simply lay them over the matching squares on your patchwork cardigan. With a length of your chosen yarn for joining, sew around the bottom three edges of each pocket to adhere them to your cardigan. Voilà!
Conclusion | Free Crochet Patchwork Cardigan
Squares joined, cuffs added, and all loose ends weaved in? Congratulations, you’re all done!
If you’ve enjoyed this free crochet patchwork cardigan pattern, check out our Crochet Patchwork Sweater, similarly utilizing our original Virkadia Square pattern!
You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for our original and free season-themed patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!
And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!
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