Mosaic Crochet Strawberry Bag | Free Crochet Pattern

Ripened into this free mosaic crochet strawberry bag pattern are all the sugary splendors of sweet summertime—a bulging bag packed to the brim with goodies for a spontaneous picnic, the colorful bushes bursting with ripe berries sending sweet scents through the breeze, and the refreshing taste of sugary strawberries on your lips as you bask beneath the balmy sun.

While the sultry sun sinks lower in the sky each day, there’s no better way to spend the last lazy days of summer than with this free mosaic crochet strawberry bag pattern!

So grab your crochet hook and stretch out in the sun, and let’s get started on this satisfying project that’s as fun to make as it is to flaunt!

Pattern Information | Free Mosaic Crochet Strawberry Bag

Supplies:

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• Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
• Medium (4) weight yarn in 3 colors:
  • 343 yds* of yarn A – red (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Cherry Red)
  • 298 yds* of yarn B – pink (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Baby Pink)
  • 98 yds* of yarn C – green (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Paddy Green)
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Stitch markers

*Required yardages are approximate and are based on a model using a size H-8 (5mm) crochet hook, medium weight yarn, and the following gauge: 16 sc x 18 rows = 4 in x 4 in.

Terminology:

This free mosaic crochet strawberry bag pattern uses English (US) terminology:

• st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
• ch = chain stitch
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• sc3tog = single crochet 3 together (over the span of 3 stitches)
• mdc = mosaic double crochet
• sk = skip
• rep = repeat

Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.

In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.

How to Read This Pattern | Free Mosaic Crochet Strawberry Bag

This free mosaic crochet strawberry bag pattern uses a technique called mosaic crochet to achieve the crisp shapes of the strawberry design.

The mosaic crochet technique starts with a base pattern of simple rows of single crochet stitches, alternating between 2 or more colors every-other row, into the back loops only of each stitch.

The special design elements are then created by selectively replacing some single crochet stitches with mosaic double crochet stitches, abbreviated as ‘mdc,’ into the front loops only of the row beneath your current row.

By replacing some single crochets with mosaic double crochets in this way, you are able to effectively cover up the stitches in your row beneath with the color in your current row instead, which allows you to create a myriad of custom designs!

Most mosaic crochet patterns use visual charts, either in conjunction or in lieu of written instructions, to be followed along with to complete your repeating pattern.

This free mosaic crochet strawberry bag pattern will use both written instructions and a visual chart—so you may follow along with whichever works best for you!

Each row of the mosaic crochet chart has several important instructions to note, as seen above:

1. Both ends of each row will have a white box with a number inside.
   • The number inside the box denotes which number row it is.
   • The numbered boxes are NOT stitches.
2. Next to each numbered box on both ends of each row will also be a colored box with a letter inside.
   • The letter inside these boxes correspond with which yarn color is to be used for that row (i.e., an ‘A’ means to use yarn A).
   • When working in rows, these boxes DO count as your first and last stitches, and are worked into both loops, rather than the back loops only.
   • When working in the round, these boxes are NOT worked as stitches in the pattern.
3. Each box across each row will either be blank or contain a symbol.
   • A blank square with no symbol in it means to work 1 single crochet into the back loop only of your current row.
   • A square with an ‘X’ inside of it means to work 1 mosaic double crochet into the front loop only of the stitch 1 row directly beneath that stitch in your current row.
   • A square with a symbol that is NOT an ‘X,’ such as a ‘V’ or a ‘/’ shape, is a special stitch. Refer to the appropriate directions for that symbol, depending on your dominant hand.
   • The color of each box references what the pattern will look like once it is finished. The color of each box does NOT influence what stitches are to be worked in that row, and should otherwise be ignored as you are following the chart.
4. There are two black brackets, one on top of the chart and one on the bottom.
   • The bracket on the top encompasses the section of the pattern that should be repeated for right-handed crocheters.
   • Likewise, the bottom bracket encompasses the section to repeat for left-handed crocheters.
   • When working in the round, only the sequence inside the bracket will be worked. The extra stitch and lettered boxes outside of the bracket are skipped.

The entirety of this free mosaic crochet strawberry bag pattern is worked with the same side facing you. Do not turn your work at any point throughout the pattern.

When working in the round, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.

If you are right-handed, you will be reading each chart from right to left. If you are left-handed, charts will be read from left to right.

Therefore, when you encounter each special stitch (i.e., not a blank square or a square with an ‘X’), it will be worked differently depending on if you are right-handed or left-handed.

This pattern specifically uses several advanced stitches that are not common in most basic mosaic crochet patterns. Please review each special stitch carefully as you complete your pattern.

The special stitch instructions can be found dispersed throughout the Row-by-Row Sample Tutorial section of this pattern, so that you may learn each stitch as it becomes relevant to the pattern.

Please make sure you are following each of the stitch tutorials that are appropriate for your dominant hand!

The written instructions, however, are worked the same for both right-handed and left-handed crocheters—no further adjustments needed!

Although, it is also important to note that the written instructions for the mosaic crochet will not be written out to specify when you are working into your current row, versus one row down, nor will they clarify if you are working into the back loops or front loops only.

For the entirety of the mosaic crochet portion of this pattern, single crochets will always be worked into the back loops only of your current row.

Likewise, mosaic double crochets will always be worked into the front loops only, and only into the stitches one row directly beneath your current row.

There will be no exceptions to these rules, so be sure to always follow these guidelines, despite them not being explicitly written!

Take note, however, that this only applies to the mosaic crochet portions of this free mosaic crochet strawberry bag pattern.

In other words, the bag bottom and handle straps are exempt from these rules, which will be denoted later in the pattern, as well.

Row-by-Row Sample Tutorial | Free Mosaic Crochet Strawberry

Before starting the full-size free mosaic crochet strawberry bag pattern, it is strongly recommended to start here first, with the row-by-row sample tutorial.

In this sample tutorial, we will be going over each row, one-by-one, and learning each special stitch as it becomes relevant to the pattern.

Then, once you have a practiced understanding of the mosaic crochet basics, as well as the more advanced stitches, you may then take that knowledge into the full-size free mosaic crochet strawberry bag pattern.

There are, however, a few differences to note between the sample tutorial and the full-size bag pattern.

The sample tutorial will be worked in short rows to make a single strawberry design. The sample tutorial will include two extra stitches on each side (represented by the lettered boxes in the chart), plus a third extra stitch to make the design symmetrical. The sample tutorial will have no repeats.

The full size pattern, on the other hand, will be worked in the round and will include repeating a bracketed sequence in the chart. The full-size pattern will also omit the extra lettered boxes in the chart, as well as the extra stitch added for symmetry. The full-size pattern will otherwise be worked the same as the sample tutorial, once the bottom of the bag is complete.

Sample Tutorial – Rows 1 to 3:

Mosaic crochet alternates colors every-other row. For the sample tutorial, we will be joining our new color at the beginning of each row, then fastening off at the end of that row.

To join each new color, insert your hook into the first stitch of your next row and yarn over your new color. Then, pull through and chain 1.

Additionally, the first and last stitch of each row, represented by the lettered boxes in the chart, will be worked into both loops. All other single crochet will be worked into the back loops only.

With yarn A (red), chain 20.

Row 1: beginning in 2nd ch from hook, 1sc into each ch across (19).

Row 2: with yarn B, 1sc into both loops of each st across (19).

Row 3: with yarn A, 1sc into each st across (19).

Sample Tutorial – Row 4:

Row 4 introduces two new symbols to the pattern.

If you are right-handed, you will be reading each chart from right to left. If you are left-handed, charts will be read from left to right.

Therefore, when you encounter each special stitch, it will be worked differently depending on if you are right-handed or left-handed.

The special stitch instructions for these two symbols can be found below the general instructions for row 4.

Please make sure that you are following each of the stitch tutorials that is appropriate for your dominant hand!

The written instructions, however, are worked the same for both right-handed and left-handed crocheters—no further adjustments needed!

Row 4: with yarn B, 1sc into next st, 1mdc into each of next 5 sts, sk next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, sk next st, 1mdc into each of next 5 sts, 1sc into next st, join (19).

Special Symbol 1 [sk, (1mdc, 1sc)]:

The first special symbol that you will encounter in the pattern will be different depending on if you are right-handed or left-handed, as the chart is read from different directions.

Please be sure to refer to the special instructions that are specific to your hand-dominance only.

Symbol 1 – Right-handed Instructions:

Begin by skipping your next stitch. This includes both the next stitch of your current row, as well as the front loop only of the stitch directly beneath.

Next, work 1 mosaic double crochet into the front loop only of the stitch 1 row directly beneath the next stitch of your current row (after your skipped stitch).

Then, work 1 single crochet into the back loop only of the stitch directly above the stitch you’ve just worked your mosaic double crochet into (which may be slightly hidden behind your mosaic double crochet, so be careful).

Symbol 1 – Left-handed Instructions:

Begin by skipping your next stitch. This includes both the next stitch of your current row, as well as the front loop only of the stitch directly beneath.

Next, work 1 mosaic double crochet into the front loop only of the stitch 1 row directly beneath the next stitch of your current row (after your skipped stitch).

Then, work 1 single crochet into the back loop only of the stitch directly above the stitch you’ve just worked your mosaic double crochet into (which may be slightly hidden behind your mosaic double crochet, so be careful).

Special Symbol 2 [(1sc, 1mdc), sk]:

The second special symbol that you will encounter in the pattern looks the same as the first symbol, except that it is reflected to face the opposite way.

Therefore, this special stitch will be worked the same as the first symbol, but this time each step will be performed in reverse.

Again, the second symbol in the pattern will be different depending on if you are right-handed or left-handed, as the chart is read from different directions.

Please be sure to refer to the special instructions that are specific to your hand-dominance only.

Symbol 2 – Right-handed Instructions:

Begin by working 1 single crochet into the back loop only of the next stitch of your current row.

Next, work 1 mosaic double crochet into the front loop only of the stitch 1 row directly beneath the single crochet you’ve just worked.

Then, finish by skipping your next stitch. This includes both the next stitch of your current row (which may be slightly hidden behind your mosaic double crochet, so be careful), as well as the front loop only of the stitch directly beneath.

Symbol 2 – Left-handed Instructions:

Begin by working 1 single crochet into the back loop only of the next stitch of your current row.

Next, work 1 mosaic double crochet into the front loop only of the stitch 1 row directly beneath the single crochet you’ve just worked.

Then, finish by skipping your next stitch. This includes both the next stitch of your current row (which may be slightly hidden behind your mosaic double crochet, so be careful), as well as the front loop only of the stitch directly beneath.

Sample Tutorial – Row 5:

You will see that row 5 includes the same special symbols as the last row.

You may follow the image tutorial below the general instructions for Row 5 for a quick refresh on how to do these special stitches, if needed.

Row 5: with yarn A, 1sc into each of next 6 sts, sk next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, sk next st, 1sc into each of next 6 sts (19).

Special Symbols (Right-Handed)

For the first symbol, begin by skipping your next stitch. This includes both the next stitch of your current row, as well as the front loop only of the stitch directly beneath.

Next, work 1 mosaic double crochet into the front loop only of the stitch 1 row directly beneath the next stitch of your current row (after your skipped stitch).

Then, work 1 single crochet into the back loop only of the stitch directly above the stitch you’ve just worked your mosaic double crochet into (which may be slightly hidden behind your mosaic double crochet, so be careful).

For the second symbol, begin by working 1 single crochet into the back loop only of the next stitch of your current row.

Next, work 1 mosaic double crochet into the front loop only of the stitch 1 row directly beneath the single crochet you’ve just worked.

Then, finish by skipping your next stitch. This includes both the next stitch of your current row (which may be slightly hidden behind your mosaic double crochet, so be careful), as well as the front loop only of the stitch directly beneath.

Special Symbols (Left-Handed)

For the first symbol, begin by skipping your next stitch. This includes both the next stitch of your current row, as well as the front loop only of the stitch directly beneath.

Next, work 1 mosaic double crochet into the front loop only of the stitch 1 row directly beneath the next stitch of your current row (after your skipped stitch).

Then, work 1 single crochet into the back loop only of the stitch directly above the stitch you’ve just worked your mosaic double crochet into (which may be slightly hidden behind your mosaic double crochet, so be careful).

For the second symbol, begin by working 1 single crochet into the back loop only of the next stitch of your current row.

Next, work 1 mosaic double crochet into the front loop only of the stitch 1 row directly beneath the single crochet you’ve just worked.

Then, finish by skipping your next stitch. This includes both the next stitch of your current row (which may be slightly hidden behind your mosaic double crochet, so be careful), as well as the front loop only of the stitch directly beneath.

Sample Tutorial – Rows 6 to 8:

Row 6: with yarn B, 1sc into next st, 1mdc into each of next 5 sts, *1sc into next st, 1mdc into next st,* rep from * to * 2 times, 1sc into next st, 1mdc into each of next 5 sts, 1sc into next st (19).

Row 7: with yarn A, 1sc into each of next 5 sts, sk next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 5 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, sk next st, 1sc into each of next 5 sts (19).

Row 8: with yarn B, 1sc into next st, 1mdc into each of next 4 sts, *1sc into next st, 1mdc into next st,* rep from * to * 3 times, 1sc into next st, 1mdc into each of next 4 sts, 1sc into next st (19).

Sample Tutorial – Rows 9 to 12:

Row 9: with yarn A, 1sc into each of next 4 sts, sk next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 7 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, sk next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts (19).

Row 10: with yarn B, 1sc into next st, 1mdc into each of next 3 sts, *1sc into next st, 1mdc into next st,* rep from * to * 4 times, 1sc into next st, 1mdc into each of next 3 sts, 1sc into next st (19).

Row 11: with yarn A, 1sc into each of next 4 sts, 1mdc into next st, 1sc into each of next 9 sts, 1mdc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts (19).

Row 12: with yarn B, 1sc into next st, 1mdc into each of next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts, 1mdc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts, 1mdc into each of next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts, 1mdc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts, 1mdc into each of next 2 sts, 1sc into next st (19).

Sample Tutorial – Row 13:

Row 13 introduces two new symbols to the pattern.

The special stitch instructions for these two symbols can be found below the general instructions for row 13.

Please make sure that you are following each of the stitch tutorials that is appropriate for your dominant hand!

The written instructions, however, are worked the same for both right-handed and left-handed crocheters—no further adjustments needed!

Row 13: with yarn C, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, 1mdc into next st, sk next st, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, 1mdc into next st, sk next st, 1sc into next st, sk next st, 1mdc into next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, sk next st, 1mdc into next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts (19).

Special Symbol 3 [(1sc, 1mdc), 1mdc, sk]:

You will notice that the third special symbol that you encounter looks almost the same as the special symbols you’ve encountered previously, but this time with an extra diagonal line.

The symbol you are already familiar with will be worked the same as it has before, but the extra line will now add one more mosaic double crochet to the sequence.

Don’t forget to refer to the special instructions that are specific to your hand-dominance only.

Symbol 3 – Right-handed Instructions:

Begin by working 1 single crochet into the back loop only of the next stitch of your current row.

Next, work 1 mosaic double crochet into the front loop only of the stitch 1 row directly beneath the single crochet you’ve just worked.

Then, work 1 mosaic double crochet into the front loop only of the next stitch, 1 row beneath your current row, as well.

Lastly, finish by skipping the next stitch of your current row (which may be slightly hidden behind your mosaic double crochet, so be careful), as well as the front loop only of the stitch directly beneath (which may be hidden, anyway).

Symbol 3 – Left-handed Instructions:

Begin by working 1 single crochet into the back loop only of the next stitch of your current row.

Next, work 1 mosaic double crochet into the front loop only of the stitch 1 row directly beneath the single crochet you’ve just worked.

Then, work 1 mosaic double crochet into the front loop only of the next stitch, 1 row beneath your current row, as well.

Lastly, finish by skipping the next stitch of your current row (which may be slightly hidden behind your mosaic double crochet, so be careful), as well as the front loop only of the stitch directly beneath (which may be hidden, anyway).

Special Symbol 4 [sk, 1mdc, (1mdc, 1sc)]:

And lastly, the fourth special symbol that you will encounter looks the same as the third symbol, but reflected backwards.

Therefore, this new stitch sequence will be worked the same, except this time in reverse.

Don’t forget to refer to the special instructions that are specific to your hand-dominance only.

Symbol 4 – Right-handed Instructions:

Begin by skipping your next stitch. This includes both the next stitch of your current row, as well as the front loop only of the stitch directly beneath (which may be hidden, anyway).

Next, work 1 mosaic double crochet into the front loop only of the stitch 1 row directly beneath the next stitch of your current row (after your skipped stitch).

Then, work 1 mosaic double crochet into the front loop only of the next stitch, 1 row beneath your current row, as well.

Lastly, work 1 single crochet into the back loop only of the stitch directly above the stitch you’ve just worked your last mosaic double crochet into (which may be slightly hidden behind your mosaic double crochet, so be careful).

Symbol 4 – Left-handed Instructions:

Begin by skipping your next stitch. This includes both the next stitch of your current row, as well as the front loop only of the stitch directly beneath (which may be hidden, anyway).

Next, work 1 mosaic double crochet into the front loop only of the stitch 1 row directly beneath the next stitch of your current row (after your skipped stitch).

Then, work 1 mosaic double crochet into the front loop only of the next stitch, 1 row beneath your current row, as well.

Lastly, work 1 single crochet into the back loop only of the stitch directly above the stitch you’ve just worked your last mosaic double crochet into (which may be slightly hidden behind your mosaic double crochet, so be careful).

Sample Tutorial – Rows 14 to 16:

Row 14: with yarn B, 1sc into next st, 1mdc into each of next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 11 sts, 1mdc into each of next 3 sts, 1sc into next st (19).

Row 15: with yarn C, 1sc into each of next 4 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, 1mdc into next st, sk next st, 1mdc into each of next 5 sts, sk next st, 1mdc into next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts (19).

Row 16: with yarn B, 1sc into next st, 1mdc into each of next 3 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, sk next st, 1sc into each of next 7 sts, sk next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1mdc into each of next 3 sts, 1sc into next st (19).

Sample Tutorial – Rows 17 to 19:

Row 17: with yarn C, 1sc into each of next 9 sts, 1mdc into next st, 1sc into each of next 9 sts (19).

Row 18: with yarn B, 1sc into next st, 1mdc into each of next 8 sts, 1sc into next st, 1mdc into each of next 8 sts, 1sc into next st (19).

Row 19: with yarn A, 1sc into both loops of each st across (19).

Finish off your mosaic crochet strawberry sample by weaving in all ends.

And voilà! You now have all the skills that you need to tackle the full-size mosaic crochet strawberry bag (plus a cute strawberry square)!

Full-Size Pattern Instructions | Free Mosaic Crochet Strawberry Bag

Before starting the full-size free mosaic crochet strawberry bag pattern, it is strongly recommended to start with the row-by-row sample tutorial, first.

Then, once you have a practiced understanding of the mosaic crochet basics, as well as the more advanced stitches, you may then take that knowledge into the full-size free mosaic crochet strawberry bag pattern.

Mosaic Crochet Strawberry Bag Bottom:

With yarn A (red), chain 36.

Rnd 1: beginning in 2nd ch from hook, *1sc into each of next 34 sts, 2sc into next st,* working into other side of ch sts, rep from * to * 1 time, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (72).

Rnd 2: [3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 33 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (80).

Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 35 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (88).

Rnd 4: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 37 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (96).

Rnd 5: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 39 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (104).

Rnd 6: [1sc into each of next 4 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 41 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (112).

Rnd 7: [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 43 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 6 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (120).

Rnd 8: [1sc into each of next 6 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 45 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 7 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (128).

Rnd 9: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (128).

Rnd 10: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (128).

Rnd 11: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (128).

Do not fasten off. You will be starting round 1 of the mosaic crochet section of this mosaic crochet strawberry bag directly off of your bag bottom.

Mosaic Crochet Strawberry Bag – Rounds 1 to 2:

The mosaic crochet technique alternates between 2 or more colors every-other round.

If you want to avoid having to weave in tails after every round, do not fasten off when changing colors.

Instead, end each round with 2 chain stitches, then secure your working loop with a stitch marker. Keep your chain behind your work as you begin your next round.

Then, once you’ve completed the next round and it is time to switch back to your previous color, simply remove your stitch marker from the working loop, reinsert your hook, and continue as normal.

However, if you don’t like the seam that this method creates on the inside of your bag, as seen above, you may also opt to fasten off after every round.

Choose whichever method works best for you!

Rnd 1: with yarn A, 1sc into both loops of each st around, join (128).

Join yarn B (pink) by inserting your hook into the first stitch of the next round. Pull up a loop of yarn B and chain 1.

Rnd 2: with yarn B, 1sc into both loops of each st around, join (128).

Mosaic Crochet Strawberry Bag – Rounds 3 to 10:

For the remainder of the mosaic crochet portion of this pattern (rounds 3 to 50), single crochets will always be worked into the back loops only of your current round.

Likewise, mosaic double crochets will always be worked into the front loops only, one round directly beneath your current round.

There will be no exceptions to these rules, so be sure to always follow these guidelines, despite them not being explicitly written!

Additionally, unlike the sample tutorial, this mosaic crochet strawberry bag is worked in the round. Therefore, you will be completing the repeating sequence of each chart only.

Do not work any of the stitches outside of your bracketed repeating sequence, which will be specific to your dominant hand only. This includes all lettered boxes (denoting yarn color) in the chart, as well as the extra stitch added for symmetry in each row.

Furthermore, if you have any trouble with the special stitches (represented in the chart by any symbol that is not an ‘X’), be sure go back and review the special stitch instructions dispersed throughout the row-by-row sample tutorial!

Rnd 3: with yarn A, 1sc into each st around, join (128).

Rnd 4: with yarn B, [1mdc into each of next 5 sts, sk next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, sk next st, 1mdc into each of next 4 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 5: with yarn A, [1sc into each of next 5 sts, sk next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, sk next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 6: with yarn B, [1mdc into each of next 5 sts, *1sc into next st, 1mdc into next st,* rep from * to * 2 times, 1sc into next st, 1mdc into each of next 4 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 7: with yarn A, [1sc into each of next 4 sts, sk next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 5 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, sk next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 8: with yarn B, [1mdc into each of next 4 sts, *1sc into next st, 1mdc into next st,* rep from * to * 3 times, 1sc into next st, 1mdc into each of next 3 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 9: with yarn A, [1sc into each of next 3 sts, sk next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 7 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, sk next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 10: with yarn B, [1mdc into each of next 3 sts, *1sc into next st, 1mdc into next st,* rep from * to * 4 times, 1sc into next st, 1mdc into each of next 2 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Mosaic Crochet Strawberry Bag – Rounds 11 to 18:

Rnd 11: with yarn A, [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 1mdc into next st, 1sc into each of next 9 sts, 1mdc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Fasten off yarn A.

Rnd 12: with yarn B, [*1mdc into each of next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts, 1mdc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts, 1mdc into next st,* rep from * to * 1 time] 8 times, join (128).

Join yarn C (green) by inserting your hook into the first stitch of the next round. Pull up a loop of yarn C and chain 1.

Rnd 13: with yarn C, [1sc into each of next 2 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, 1mdc into next st, sk next st, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, 1mdc into next st, sk next st, 1sc into next st, sk next st, 1mdc into next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, sk next st, 1mdc into next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1sc into next st] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 14: with yarn B, [1mdc into each of next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 11 sts, 1mdc into each of next 2 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 15: with yarn C, [1sc into each of next 3 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, 1mdc into next st, sk next st, 1mdc into each of next 5 sts, sk next st, 1mdc into next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 16: with yarn B, [1mdc into each of next 3 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, sk next st, 1sc into each of next 7 sts, sk next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1mdc into each of next 2 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 17: with yarn C, [1sc into each of next 8 sts, 1mdc into next st, 1sc into each of next 7 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Fasten off yarn C.

Rnd 18: with yarn B, [1mdc into each of next 8 sts, 1sc into next st, 1mdc into each of next 7 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Mosaic Crochet Strawberry Bag – Rounds 19 to 26:

Join yarn A (red) by inserting your hook into the first stitch of the next round. Pull up a loop of yarn A and chain 1.

Rnd 19: with yarn A, 1sc into each st around, join (128).

Rnd 20: with yarn B, [1sc into each of next 2 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, sk next st, 1mdc into each of next 9 sts, sk next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1sc into next st] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 21: with yarn A, [1sc into each of next 2 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, sk next st, 1sc into each of next 9 sts, sk next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1sc into next st] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 22: with yarn B, [*1mdc into next st, 1sc into next st,* rep from * to * 1 time, 1mdc into each of next 9 sts, 1sc into next st, rep from * to * 1 time] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 23: with yarn A, [1sc into each of next 3 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, sk next st, 1sc into each of next 7 sts, sk next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 24: with yarn B, [*1sc into next st, 1mdc into next st,* rep from * to * 1 time, 1sc into next st, 1mdc into each of next 7 sts, rep from * to * 2 times] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 25: with yarn A, [1sc into each of next 4 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, sk next st, 1sc into each of next 5 sts, sk next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 26: with yarn B, [*1mdc into next st, 1sc into next st,* rep from * to * 2 times, 1mdc into each of next 5 sts, 1sc into next st, rep from * to * 2 times] 8 times, join (128).

Mosaic Crochet Strawberry Bag – Rounds 27 to 34:

Rnd 27: with yarn A, [*1sc into each of next 5 sts, 1mdc into next st,* rep from * to * 1 time, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Fasten off yarn A.

Rnd 28: with yarn B, [*1mdc into each of next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts, 1mdc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts, 1mdc into next st,* rep from * to * 1 time] 8 times, join (128).

Join yarn C (green) by inserting your hook into the first stitch of the next round. Pull up a loop of yarn C and chain 1.

Rnd 29: with yarn C, [1sc into next st, sk next st, 1mdc into next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, sk next st, 1mdc into next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, 1mdc into next st, sk next st, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, 1mdc into next st, sk next st] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 30: with yarn B, [1sc into each of next 6 sts, 1mdc into each of next 5 sts, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 31: with yarn C, [1mdc into each of next 3 sts, sk next st, 1mdc into next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 5 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, 1mdc into next st, sk next st, 1mdc into each of next 2 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 32: with yarn B, [1sc into each of next 4 sts, sk next st, (1mdc, 1sc) into next st, 1mdc into each of next 5 sts, (1sc, 1mdc) into next st, sk next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Rnd 33: with yarn C, [1mdc into next st, 1sc into each of next 15 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Fasten off yarn C.

Rnd 34: with yarn B, [1sc into next st, 1mdc into each of next 15 sts] 8 times, join (128).

Mosaic Crochet Strawberry Bag – Rounds 35 to 50:

Repeat rounds 3 to 18 to add 1 more row of strawberries to your bag, for a total of 3 rows of strawberry designs.

Then, continue to the instructions for adding handles to your mosaic crochet strawberry bag below.

Mosaic Crochet Strawberry Bag Handles:

Now that the mosaic section of the bag is complete, the remainder of this mosaic crochet strawberry bag will be worked into both loops as normal.

Rnd 35: with yarn B, 1sc into each st around, join (128).

Fasten off yarn B. The remainder of your bag will be completed with yarn A only.

Join yarn A (red) by inserting your hook into the first stitch of the next round. Pull up a loop of yarn A and chain 1.

Rnd 36: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (128).

Rnds 37 to 41 (5 rnds): rep rnd 36 (128).

Before beginning round 42, decide where you want the inside edge of each of your bag handles to begin and end on both sides of your bag.

To do this, flatten your bag so that your joining seam is at one end. Then, use four stitch markers to mark two stitches on each side of your flattened bag.

The first two stitch markers in the round will be where your first strap begins and ends. Likewise, the last two stitch markers will be where your second strap begins and ends.

The example bag has each pair of stitch markers placed 32 stitches apart, on the front and back sides of the bag.

However, the length between stitch markers, or how wide you want your handle holes to be, can be lengthened or shortened to your preference!

For best results, align your stitch markers so that the space between them is centered with the strawberry design beneath.

The example mosaic crochet strawberry bag has stitch markers placed into the 19th, 51st, 83rd, and 115th stitches.

Your unique tension may result in your stitches having more or less of a slant to them, so adjust your handle placements as needed.

The length of your handle straps can also by customized by adding more or fewer chain stitches between your stitch markers in round 42, to make your straps longer or shorter, respectively.

Rnd 42: [1sc into each st until next marked st, 1sc into marked st, remove marker and reinsert into last st, ch 90, 1sc into next marked st, remove marker and reinsert into last st] 2 times, 1sc into each st until end, join, ch 1 (246).

Rnd 43: [1sc into each st until 1 st remains before next marked stitch, sc3tog over next 3 sts, remove marker and reinsert into last st] 4 times, 1sc into each st until end, join, ch 1 (238).

Rnd 44: rep rnd 43 (230).

Rnd 45: rep rnd 43 (222).

Rnd 46: rep rnd 43 (214).

Rnd 47: rep rnd 43 (206).

Rnd 48: [1sc into each st until 1 st remains before next marked stitch, sc3tog over next 3 sts, remove marker and reinsert into last st] 4 times, 1sc into each st until end (198).

You may now join your last round and fasten off, or continue to round 49 (optional) to finish your bag off with a slightly sturdier edge.

Rnd 49: sl st into each st around (198).

Fasten off and weave in tails.

As an option, you may also use this same technique of the inside edge of your handles to give them the same sturdy look and feel.

To do this, choose any stitch around the inside of your handle strap, insert your hook, and pull up a loop of yarn A.

Then, slip stitch into each stitch around the inside edge of your strap. Fasten off, weave in your tails, and repeat on the other side of your bag.

Conclusion | Free Mosaic Crochet Strawberry Bag

And with that, you’re done the free mosaic crochet strawberry bag pattern! This pattern has been a doozy to design and a labor of love to see through to the end—so thank you so much for reading and supporting our blog!

You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!

If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!

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