Welcome to our comprehensive Virkadia Square tutorial, our very own original crochet square design! Perfect for any crochet patchwork project, this square was designed with bold texture and thick coverage in mind!
Granny squares are the building blocks of countless cozy blankets and eye-catching clothing and accessories. But sometimes, traditional granny squares, with their loose and hole-riddled structure, just won’t do for projects that need a lot of coverage and sturdiness!
In the past, I often struggled to find the perfect crochet square for my projects. When it came to making clothes and accessories, I wanted something solid that wasn’t constantly risking pens and loose change falling out the holes of pockets and bags.
However, I didn’t love the look of most options for solid granny squares. I also hated the hassle of trying to sew squares together that were worked back-and-forth, as they always came out wonky for me.
And so the Virkadia Square was born! Quite simply, it utilizes the lemon peel stitch, also called the griddle stitch, but is worked in the round to achieve its beautiful evenly-textured look.
So grab your favorite yarn, your trusty crochet hook, and let’s get started on this endlessly versatile crochet square!
Pattern Information | Free Crochet Square Pattern
Supplies
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- Crochet hook (use any size appropriate for your chosen yarn weight; example uses size L/11-8mm hook)
- Yarn of any weight and color (example uses medium weight Craft Smart Value: Ginger)
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers (optional)
Terminology:
This free crochet square pattern uses English (US) terminology:
- st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- dc3tog = double crochet 3 together (over the span of 3 stitches)
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.
Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Square Pattern
How to Crochet the Virkadia Square:
The Virkadia Square comes in four variations, each of which is customized for different areas of a garment or accessory. They can easily be mix-and-matched according to your specific needs!
The most common shape you would use is likely the standard Virkadia Square, which is just the normal square-shaped motif. Sweet and simple, yet still endlessly versatile!
The second shape is the tapered square variant. This alternative square is great to use along the end of sleeves or the tops of bags to create a more gentle curve towards a cuff or opening.
The third shape is the half-square variant. This rectangle-shaped is perfect for any pattern that you want to be just a smidge longer or wider, but don’t want to add another full square.
Last is the inside curve variant. These unique square alternatives were designed specifically for the goal of a perfect neckline curve in mind. These curved L-shaped patches are perfect for sweater necks or anywhere you want to achieve a dramatic curve!
The Virkadia Square – Standard (Rounds 1 to 5):
The standard size for the Virkadia Square is 5 rounds, as this is the size we use most often in our original patterns.
However, the Virkadia Square can be shortened or lengthened to any desired amount of rounds, depending on your purpose for it. For a larger motif, refer to the Extended Virkadia Square pattern instructions after rounds 1 to 5.
With your chosen yarn, make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1)
Rnd 1: [1sc into ring, 1dc into ring] 4 times, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (8).
Rnd 2: [1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (16).
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 4: [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (32).
Rnd 5: [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st] 4 times, join (40).
For our standard crochet square size, fasten off and weave in tails. For a larger motif, chain 1 and continue to the extended Virkadia Square instructions below.
Additionally, when constructing your project, decide which side of the crochet you’d like to face outwards. You may showcase the ‘right side,’ as seen above, or (as is my preference) show off the fun texture of the back or ‘wrong side,’ as seen below!
The Virkadia Square – Extended (Rounds 6+):
Rnd 6: [1dc into next st, (1sc into next st, 1dc into next st) 2 times, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, (1dc into next st, 1sc into next st) 2 times] 4 times, join, ch 1 (48).
Rnd 7: [(1sc into next st, 1dc into next st) 3 times, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, (1dc into next st, 1sc into next st) 2 times, 1dc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (56).
Rnd 8: [1dc into next st, (1sc into next st, 1dc into next st) 3 times, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, (1dc into next st, 1sc into next st) 3 times] 4 times, join, ch 1 (64).
Rnd 9: [(1sc into next st, 1dc into next st) 4 times, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, (1dc into next st, 1sc into next st) 3 times, 1dc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (72).
Rnd 10: [1dc into next st, (1sc into next st, 1dc into next st) 4 times, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, (1dc into next st, 1sc into next st) 3 times] 4 times, join, ch 1 (80).
Continue for as many rounds as desired by working 1 single crochet into each double crochet, and 1 double crochet into each single crochet for all straight edges.
For corners, work 1 single crochet, 1 double crochet, and 1 more single crochet all into each corner stitch.
After your last round, fasten off and weave in tails.
The Virkadia Square – Tapered Variant
Looking for a cinched sleeve cuff look, but don’t want all that extra fabric around your wrist? The tapered variant is the perfect solution to achieving a more gentle curve towards each sleeve cuff while avoiding that annoying bulkiness.
The tapered variant of the Virkadia Square may look intimidating, but it is actually worked just like the standard square, with two notable exceptions.
The first is that in rounds 3, 4, and 5, the last two corners are each moved over one stitch closer towards each other. The second is that in rounds 3 and 5 (but not 4), the last two corners are worked as (1dc, 1sc, 1dc) instead of (1sc, 1dc, 1sc).
When in doubt, just remember to always work single crochets into double crochets and double crochets into single crochets, except for corners.
Corners are worked as (1sc, 1dc, 1sc), except for the last two corners of rounds 3 and 5, which are (1dc, 1sc, 1dc). And lastly, the first two corners of each round are worked normally, while the last two corners should be separated by only 1 stitch in each round.
With your chosen yarn, make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1)
Rnd 1: [1sc into ring, 1dc into ring] 4 times, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (8).
Rnd 2: [1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (16).
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st] 2 times, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, [1sc into next st, (1dc, 1sc, 1dc) into next st] 2 times, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 4: [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, [1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st] 2 times, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (32).
Rnd 5: [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1dc into next st] 2 times, [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st] 3 times, [1sc into next st, (1dc, 1sc, 1dc) into next st] 2 times, [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (40).
Fasten off and weave in tails.
The Virkadia Square – Half-Square Variant
This variant is worked similarly to the standard square, except that it is not worked from a center ring. Instead, it is worked around both sides of a chain to create its elongated shape.
With your chosen yarn, chain 8.
Rnd 1: Beginning in 2nd ch from hook, *(1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc) into next st,* working into other side of ch sts, repeat from * to * 1 time, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (20).
Rnd 2: [1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, (1dc into next st, 1sc into next st) 3 times, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st] 2 times, join (28).
Fasten off and weave in tails.
The Virkadia Square – Inside Curve Variant
Similar to the half-square variant, this L-shaped patch is worked around both sides of a chain to create its elongated shape, but with an added bend in the middle.
At the end of round 2, the yarn is fastened off, then rejoined in the middle of the pattern to work an additional partial round that will add in its perfect curve.
With your chosen yarn, chain 14.
Rnd 1: Beginning in 2nd ch from hook, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc) into next st, working into other side of ch sts, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, dc3tog over next 3 sts, [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st] 2 times, (1sc, 1dc) into next st, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (32).
Rnd 2: 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 3 times, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 3 times, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, 1dc into next st, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, [1dc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, dc3tog over next 3 sts, [1sc into next st, 1dc into next st] 2 times, (1sc, 1dc, 1sc) into next st, join (40).
Fasten off and weave in tails. You should now have an L-shaped rectangle.
Locate your inside corner stitch (where you double crocheted 3 together), and count 4 stitches backwards. You will be starting in this stitch and working a partial round to create that perfect curve.
Round 3: sl st into next st, 1sc into next st, 1hdc into next st, dc3tog over next 3 sts, 1hdc into next st, 1sc into next st, sl st into next st (7).
Fasten off and weave in tails.
How to Join Squares (The Flat Slip Stitch Method):
After you’ve completed all of your crochet squares, lay them out in your desired pattern. If you’re looking for some inspiration, check out our Patchwork Cardigan and our Patchwork Sweater free crochet patterns!
Make sure to flip all of your squares to the same side. The side of each square that you want to be front-facing should be currently facing you.
We will begin with joining all the squares in vertical columns first, then go back to join each of the horizontal rows.
Joining Squares (Vertically):
Begin by picking up your first two crochet squares that you want to join together. I recommend starting with your left-most two columns of squares (or right-most for lefties). Be sure to keep them arranged in the same manner that you want them to be joined.
With the yarn that you want to use for your joining seams, create a slip knot on your hook. As you work your seams, allow your working tail to travel behind your work. Your active loop and hook will remain in front of your work.
Starting with your left square, insert your hook into the back loop only of the bottom right corner stitch. Do not pull through.
Then, into your right square, insert your hook into the back loop only of the bottom left corner stitch.
Pull up a loop through both stitches, as well as through the loop on your hook. This completes your first slip stitch join.
Continue working slip stitches through the back loops only of each pair of stitches along your squares, left then right, until you reach the next corners.
After completing the last slip stitch into the corner stitches, retrieve the next two squares in your pattern.
Using the same method as before, insert your hook into the corner stitch of the next left square, then the next right square, and pull through all loops.
Continue working up the seam in the same manner to join all squares in the vertical column of your pattern. After your last slip stitch into the corner stitches of your last two squares, fasten off and weave in tails.
Begin again at the bottom of the strip you’ve just joined and use the same method to attach the next column of squares in your pattern.
After you have joined all vertical columns of your squares, follow the directions below to begin attaching them horizontally.
Joining Squares (Horizontally):
Begin by locating the first two crochet squares that you want to join together horizontally. Rotate your work so that your horizontal rows now become vertical columns, like you’ve worked before.
With your chosen yarn for joining, create a slip knot on your hook. Remember, as you work your seams, allow your working tail to travel behind your work. Your active loop and hook will remain in front of your work.
With your work rotated, insert your hook into the back loop only of the corner stitch of the left square, then the right square, and pull up a loop up through all loops.
Continue working slip stitches through the back loops only of each pair of stitches along your squares, left then right, but stop when you reach the next pair of corner stitches.
For the next pair of corner stitches, you will be working into the front loops only, instead of the back loops.
Insert your hook into the front loop only of the corner stitch of the left square, then the right square, and pull through all loops. Do the same for the next pair of corner stitches.
After completing both corner joins through the front loops only, return to working into the back loops only of each stitch until you reach the next set of corner stitches.
Continue working along the seam in the same manner to join all squares in the horizontal row of your pattern.
On the last two corner stitches in the row, work into the back loops again as you did for the very first corner stitches of the row. Fasten off and weave in tails.
Begin again at the beginning of the strip you’ve just joined and use the same method to attach the next row of squares in your pattern. Continue until all crochet squares in the pattern are connected.
If you are crocheting a pattern for clothes or another accessory that requires cuffs or ribbing to finish it off, check out Virkadia’s original ribbing method below!
How to Add Ribbing (The Virkadia Method):
Our original and free ribbing method has three variations, depending on the amount of cinching you are aiming to achieve.
Flat edges where you want minimal to no cinching should use the 2-stitch join ribbing method. This variation is great for cardigan edges, sweater bottoms, and elevating the top edge of a patch pocket!
For rounded areas that you want to have moderate cinching, such as sleeve cuffs, the 3-stitch join ribbing method adds a beautiful but gentle curve to your finished crochet piece.
For sharper curved angles where extra cinching is needed, such as around a neckline, the 4-stitch join ribbing is ideal.
Choose the best method for your crochet square project below, or mix and match according to your needs!
Flat Edge Ribbing (2-Stitch Join Ribbing):
Insert your hook into the corner or first stitch of the edge that you want to add ribbing to. With your chosen yarn, pull up a loop. Then, yarn over both ends (your beginning tail and your normal working yarn) and pull through.
Pull the loop on your hook that is your beginning tail until the end comes out. Then, pull on the chain you’ve just made until it is tight. You will not work into this stitch again and it should not be included in your stitch count.
For the following ribbing instructions, the ‘body’ will refer to the piece of crochet that you are working your ribbed cuff onto. The first stitch worked into the body should be the same stitch where you’ve joined your yarn.
Chain 7, or as many stitches wide as your want your cuff, plus one. For the best results, work your first row into the back bars of your chain.
Row 1: 1hdc into the 2nd ch from hook and each ch across until 1 ch is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next ch and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and all 3 loops on hook, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 2: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 3: 1hdc into each sl st across until 1 st is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next sl st and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and all 3 loops on hook, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 4: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until the end of the body or until desired, ending with a repetition of row 4. Fasten off and weave in ends, or sew to first row if it is a round cuff.
Sleeve Cuff Ribbing (3-Stitch Join Ribbing):
Insert your hook into the corner or first stitch of the edge that you want to add ribbing to. With your chosen yarn, pull up a loop. Then, yarn over both ends (your beginning tail and your normal working yarn) and pull through.
Pull the loop on your hook that is your beginning tail until the end comes out. Then, pull on the chain you’ve just made until it is tight. You will not work into this stitch again and it should not be included in your stitch count.
For the following ribbing instructions, the ‘body’ will refer to the piece of crochet that you are working your ribbed cuff onto. The first stitch worked into the body should be the same stitch where you’ve joined your yarn.
Chain 7, or as many stitches wide as your want your cuff, plus one. For the best results, work your first row into the back bars of your chain.
Row 1: 1hdc into the 2nd ch from hook and each ch across until 1 ch is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next ch and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and all 3 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and loop on hook, turn (6).
Row 2: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 3: 1hdc into each sl st across until 1 st is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next sl st and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and all 3 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and loop on hook, turn (6).
Row 4: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until the end of the body or until desired, ending with a repetition of row 4. Fasten off and weave in ends, or sew to first row if it is a round cuff.
Neck Cuff Ribbing (4-Stitch Join Ribbing):
Insert your hook into the corner or first stitch of the edge that you want to add ribbing to. With your chosen yarn, pull up a loop. Then, yarn over both ends (your beginning tail and your normal working yarn) and pull through.
Pull the loop on your hook that is your beginning tail until the end comes out. Then, pull on the chain you’ve just made until it is tight. You will not work into this stitch again and it should not be included in your stitch count.
For the following ribbing instructions, the ‘body’ will refer to the piece of crochet that you are working your ribbed cuff onto. The first stitch worked into the body should be the same stitch where you’ve joined your yarn.
Chain 7, or as many stitches wide as your want your cuff, plus one. For the best results, work your first row into the back bars of your chain.
Row 1: 1hdc into the 2nd ch from hook and each ch across until 1 ch is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next ch and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and first 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and last 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and loop on hook, turn (6).
Row 2: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Row 3: 1hdc into each sl st across until 1 st is left, yarn over and insert hook into both next sl st and next st of body, yarn over and pull through both sts, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and first 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and last 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next st of body, yarn over and pull through st and loop on hook, turn (6).
Row 4: sl st into each st across, ch 1, turn (6).
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until the end of the body or until desired, ending with a repetition of row 4. Fasten off and weave in ends, or sew to first row if it is a round cuff.
Conclusion | Free Crochet Square Pattern
If you’ve enjoyed this original crochet square design, check out our Patchwork Cardigan pattern and our Patchwork Sweater pattern, which both utilize all the skills you’ve just learned!
You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for our original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!
If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our other Granny Square Patterns!
And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!
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