Crochet Witch Hat | Free Crochet Pattern

Cackling from this free crochet witch hat amigurumi pattern are all the spooky scenes of haunted Halloween nights—the darkness of night falling down over the hills like a sinisterly cast spell, raspy murmuring of ancient words as long fingers turn the delicately aged paper of an old book, and the creaks and groans of a settling house… or is it something more?

With Halloween inching towards you like a ghost in the night, how better to soothe your shaking hands than with this free crochet witch hat amigurumi pattern!

So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Witch Hat Cutie, part 6 of 6 in the Halloween Cuties collection!

Pattern Information | Free Crochet Witch Hat Amigurumi

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Supplies:

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• Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
• Medium (4) weight yarn in 3 colors:
  • Yarn A – purple (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Lavender)
  • Yarn B – orange (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Pumpkin)
  • Yarn C – dark gray (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Charcoal)
• 10mm black safety eyes (x2)
• Black embroidery floss
• Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Perfect Pink)
• Polyester fiberfill
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Stitch markers

Alternate Yarn Supplies:

Color Variation 2 (as seen on the left in cover photo):

• Medium (4) weight yarn in 3 colors:
  • Yarn A – green (example uses Big Twist Value: Slime)
  • Yarn B – purple (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Lavender)
  • Yarn C – dark gray (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Charcoal)

Terminology:

This free crochet witch hat amigurumi pattern uses English (US) terminology:

• st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
• ch = chain stitch
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
• BLO = back loop only

Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.

In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.

You can learn more about how to read Virkadia patterns on our Pattern Help FAQ page!

Special Stitch Instructions:

Please review our special stitch instructions on our Stitch Tutorials FAQ before beginning, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.

You can also watch our amigurumi techniques video tutorial for all of our tips and tricks for improving your project!

This free crochet witch hat amigurumi pattern uses the following special stitch tutorials:

• Single Crochet (YU/YO Method)
• Invisible Decrease
• Joining Rounds

This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.

Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.

Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Witch Hat Amigurumi

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Crochet Witch Hat – Rounds 1 to 24:

With yarn A (purple), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: 1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st, join, ch 1 (7).

Rnd 3: 2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 6 sts, join, ch 1 (8).

Rnd 4: 1sc into each of next 7 sts, 2sc into next st, join, ch 1 (9).

Rnd 5: 2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 8 sts, join, ch 1 (10).

Rnd 6: [1sc into each of next 4 sts, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 7: [2sc into next st, 1sc into next st] 3 times, 1sc into each of next 6 sts, join, ch 1 (15).

Rnd 8: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, 2sc into next st] 3 times, 1sc into each of next 6 sts, join, ch 1 (18).

Rnd 9: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times, 1sc into each of next 6 sts, join, ch 1 (21).

Rnd 10: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (21).

Rnd 11: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times, [2sc into next st, 1sc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (21).

Rnd 12: 1sc into each of next 12 sts, [1sc into each of next 2 sts, 2sc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (24).

Rnd 13: 1sc into each of next 12 sts, [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (27).

Rnd 14: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (27).

Rnd 15: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times, [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (27).

Rnd 16: [1sc into each of next 4 sts, 2sc into next st] 3 times, 1sc into each of next 12 sts, join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 17: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 3 times, 1sc into each of next 12 sts, join, ch 1 (33).

Rnd 18: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (33).

Rnd 19: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 3 times, [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (33).

Rnd 20: 1sc into each of next 18 sts, [1sc into each of next 4 sts, 2sc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 21: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 22: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 23: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 24: [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join (42).

Fasten off yarn A and leave a short tail for tying.

Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the instructions for adding the eyes, mouth, and blush before continuing.

Adding Eyes:

Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through the front of your piece (on the opposite side from your joining seam).

The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 20 and 21 and should sit 6 stitches apart, from the center of one eye to the center of the other.

Adding Mouth:

Rotate your piece so that the beginning rounds face upwards and your last round faces downwards.

Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a mouth using black embroidery floss.

The mouth should be embroidered over top of round 22 and be centered between the eyes. The mouth will be 2 stitches wide and 1 round tall.

Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 2 stitches to the right from where you’ve inserted the left eye. Pull through and leave some tail for tying later.

Then, insert your needle again, 2 stitches to the right, and out again, 1 round down and 1 stitch to the left from where you’ve just inserted, and pull through.

Pass your needle up and underneath the horizontal strand you’ve just created and pull through. Then, insert your needle back into the same space as you’ve last exited from.

Pull your thread through and tug it down slightly until it forms a V-shape. Gently tie both ends together inside your piece.

Take extra care as you tie your ends not to pull the threads too tight! After finishing your knot, trim any excess length.

Adding Blush:

Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a blush line using pink embroidery floss or yarn next to each eye.

Each blush line should start 1 round down (between rounds 21 and 22) and 1 stitch outwards from where each eye was inserted, and span 1 stitch length outwards (away from the center of the face).

Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 1 stitch outwards from where you’ve inserted the eye.

Pull through, leaving some tail inside for tying later. Then, insert your needle back in, 1 more stitch outwards.

If using yarn, you may skip ahead to tying both ends together on the inside of your piece.

If using embroidery floss, pass your needle back out through the same space as you’ve last exited from and pull through. Reinsert your needle, again, 1 stitch outwards in the same place as before.

Repeat these last steps 3 more times, or until you are satisfied with the size of your blush. Then, gently tie both ends together on the inside of your piece.

Take extra care as you tie your ends not to pull the threads too tight! After finishing your knot, trim any excess length.

Crochet Witch Hat – Rounds 25 to 33:

Join yarn B (orange) by inserting your hook into the last stitch of round 24 of your crochet witch hat and pulling up a loop of yarn B.

Tie the tails of both yarn A and yarn B together on the interior of your piece to secure your ends. Trim any excess length.

Rnd 25: sl st into each st around, join, ch 1 (42).

For best results, take extra care to not work your slip stitches too tightly! If you find that your slip stitches are cinching your crochet witch hat, try loosening your tension or sizing up your hook for that round.

However, if you find the following slip stitch method too difficult, you may also opt to omit them entirely. Instead, you may skip to round 26.

If you omit the round of slip stitches, join your new yarn color in the next round by inserting your hook into the first stitch of the round.

Pull up a loop of your new color and chain 1. Then, work the single crochets of your next round into both loops as you normally would.

Choose whichever method works best for you!

Rnd 26: 1sc into BLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (42).

Optional: for a cleaner color change, try working the stitches in round 26 through both the back loop of each slip stitch AND the front loop of round 24 directly behind, as seen above.

Rnd 27: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (42).

Rnd 28: 1sc into each st around, join (42).

Fasten off yarn B and leave a short tail for tying.

Join yarn A (purple) by inserting your hook into the last stitch of round 28 of your crochet witch hat and pulling up a loop of yarn A.

Tie the tails of both yarn A and yarn B together on the interior of your piece to secure your ends. Trim any excess length.

Rnd 29: sl st into each st around, join, ch 1 (42).

Take care when working round 30 to work into the previous round of slip stitches only. Do not work into tops of the stitches from round 28 behind your slip stitches.

Alternatively, if you find this method difficult, you may skip the round of slip stitches and simply work round 30 into the front loops only of round 28, instead.

Choose whichever method works best for you!

Rnd 30: [1sc into each of next 6 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (48).

Rnd 31: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 7 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (54).

Rnd 32: [1sc into each of next 8 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (60).

Rnd 33: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 9 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (66).

Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the instructions for adding the buckle before continuing.

However, you may also opt to omit the buckle embellishment and keep the simple ribbon design as is. If so, skip ahead to round 34 of your crochet witch hat.

Adding Buckle:

To add a buckle embellishment to your crochet witch hat, we will be adding a rectangle of slip stitches over top of the front surface of the hat, just below the face.

Begin by inserting your hook through the front of your crochet witch hat, between rounds 28 and 29, in the crease between the belt of the hat and the brim, and vertically aligned with the center of the mouth.

With yarn C (dark gray) on the inside of your hat, leave a short tail for tying and pull up a loop of yarn C, through to the outside of your hat.

Your active loop should now be on the outside of your crochet witch hat. Your working tail, however, will remain on the inside of your hat.

For each stitch, you will be punching through the surface of your crochet witch hat, yarning over on the inside of your hat, then pulling though the surface of the hat and the loop on your hook to complete each slip stitch.

Using this method, slip stitch 3 times outwards towards either side, remaining between rounds 28 and 29, or in the crease between the belt and the brim.

Next, rotate your hat and work 3 more slip stitches straight upwards, towards the face.

Then, rotate again and work 6 slip stitches across the top edge of the belt, between rounds 24 and 25.

Rotate, and work 3 slip stitches downwards, back towards the brim of the hat.

Lastly, rotate once more and work 3 slip stitches back towards where you first began, closing the rectangle and completing your buckle.

Leaving a tail for sewing, cut your working yarn. Pull your end tail up and out of the front of your hat.

With a needle, thread your end tail under both loops of the very first slip stitch you worked in the buckle.

Then, insert your needle into the center of the last slip stitch you worked and pull your end tail through to the inside of your crochet witch hat.

Tie the beginning and end tails together on the inside of your piece to secure your embellishment, then cut any excess length.

Remove your stitch marker and continue to round 34 of your crochet witch hat.

Crochet Witch Hat – Rounds 34 to 44:

Begin stuffing as you go and continue to add stuffing as you close the bottom of your crochet witch hat. However, do not stuff the brim (rounds 29 to 38) of your hat!

Rnd 34: 1sc into BLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (66).

Rnd 35: in BLO of each st around, [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 9 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (60).

Rnd 36: [1sc into each of next 8 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (54).

Rnd 37: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 7 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (48).

Rnd 38: [1sc into each of next 6 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (42).

During round 39 of your crochet witch hat, try working each stitch into both your current round and the top of round 28 (the bottom of the belt/ribbon) on the inside of the hat, as seen below.

Alternatively, you may also take a length of yarn A (purple) and sew the back loops only of your current round and round 28 together, around the inside circumference of your hat. Then, work round 39 into the front loops only of your current round.

Choose whichever method works best for you!

Both techniques will seal off the brim of your crochet witch hat, so that no stuffing can squeeze in. This way, the brim of the hat will remain a thin and flat shape.

Take note, however, that if you omitted the slip stitches in round 29, only the back loops of round 28 will be left to work or sew into, but will otherwise be treated the same.

Rnd 39: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 40: [1sc into each of next 4 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 41: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).

Rnd 42: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).

Rnd 43: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 44: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (6).

Fasten off yarn A and leave a tail for sewing closed.

Sewing Closed:

To sew the bottom hole closed, pass the needle, from front to back, through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight. Secure your sewing with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.

Conclusion | Free Crochet Witch Hat Amigurumi

And with that, you’re done the free crochet Witch Hat Cutie pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out all of its companion patterns in the Halloween Cuties collection: the Ghost Cutie, the Candy Corn Cutie, the Candy Cutie, the Candy Apple Cutie, and the Potion Cauldron Cutie!

You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!

If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!

And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!

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