Crochet Ghost | Free Crochet Pattern

Brewed into this free crochet ghost amigurumi pattern are all the spooky scenes of Halloween lore—a morning mist creeping across a graveyard, distant howling under a full and bright moon, and that shiver up your spine like someone, somewhere, is watching you…

With Halloween just around the dark and spooky corner, there’s no better way to celebrate than with this free crochet ghost amigurumi pattern!

So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Ghost Cutie, part 1 of 6 in the Halloween Cuties collection!

Pattern Information | Free Crochet Ghost Amigurumi

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Supplies:

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• Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
• Medium (4) weight yarn in 1 color:
  • Yarn A – white (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Soft White)
• 10mm black safety eyes (x2)
• Black embroidery floss
• Pink embroidery floss (example uses DMC 963 Light Dusty Rose) or pink yarn
• Polyester fiberfill
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Stitch markers

Alternate Yarn Supplies:

Color Variation 2 (as seen in the photo below):

All supplies remain the same, except for the following replacements:

• Super Bulky (6) weight yarn in 1 color:
  • Yarn A – white (example uses Premier Parfait Chunky: White)
• 14mm black safety eyes (x2)
• Pink yarn (example uses Premier Parfait Chunky: Pink Lemonade)
• Black embroidery floss (doubled)

Terminology:

This free crochet ghost pattern uses English (US) terminology:

• st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
• ch = chain stitch
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
• hdc = half double crochet

Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.

In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.

Special Stitch Instructions | Free Crochet Ghost Amigurumi

Please read through all special stitch instructions carefully before beginning your project, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.

This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.

Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.

Single Crochet:

This pattern uses a variation of the traditional single crochet stitch, sometimes referred to as the YU/YO (yarn under/yarn over) method.

Instead of yarning over before pulling through, this method utilizes a yarn under technique on the first pass of each stitch, as seen below.

Begin by inserting your hook into the next stitch, then yarn under (not over) as shown above. Pull through the stitch, then yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your single crochet.

Using the above technique produces a slightly tighter and stiffer fabric than traditional single crochet stitches. This method minimizes holes between stitches, improves shaping, and decreases stitch slanting.

This pattern will still work with the traditional technique of single crochet stitches, so choose what works best for you—just be wary that your project may result in having slight visual differences than those shown in examples if using the traditional method.

Invisible Decrease:

This pattern uses a variation of the single crochet decrease stitch, often called an invisible decrease. This method produces a tighter stitch that improves shaping and blends in more seamlessly with regular stitches.

Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch, then insert into the front loop only of the second stitch in the same way. Yarn under (not over) as shown above and pull through both front loops. Yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your invisible decrease.

Joining Rounds:

Unless otherwise stated, each round in this pattern is joined at the end with a slip stitch into the first stitch of the round, followed by one or more chain stitches.

For a cleaner seam, and to ensure that these stitches are not accidentally worked into later, tighten both the slip stitch and chain as shown below.

Hold your working loop firmly on your hook and pull up with your hook until your slip stitch is tight. Then, pull back on your working tail until your loop is back to fitting snugly around your hook. Repeat these steps with the following one or more chain stitches before your next round.

Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.

Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Ghost Amigurumi

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Crochet Ghost – Rounds 1 to 13:

With yarn A (white), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form a ring, ch 1).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).

Rnd 4: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).

Rnd 5: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 6: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 7-11 (5 rnds): repeat rnd 6 (30).

Rnd 12: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 2 (30).

At the end of the next round, you will be joining into the 3rd loop of your 1st half double crochet to join the round. The 3rd loop is located just behind the back loop, on the back side of your stitch.

If you have trouble with this method, you may instead work into the back loops only. If done this way, round 18 will later be worked into the front loops only, instead of both loops.

Rnd 13: 1hdc into each st around, sl st into 3rd loop of 1st hdc to join, ch 1 (30).

Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the instructions for adding the eyes, mouth, and blush before continuing.

Adding Eyes:

Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through the front of your piece (on the opposite side from your joining seam).

The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 8 and 9 and should sit 6 stitches apart.

Adding Mouth:

Rotate your piece so that the beginning rounds face upwards and your last round faces downwards.

Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a mouth using black embroidery floss.

The mouth should be embroidered over top of round 10 and be centered between the eyes. The mouth will be 2 stitches wide and 1 round tall.

Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 2 stitches to the right from where you’ve inserted the left eye. Pull through and leave some tail for tying later.

Then, insert your needle again, 2 stitches to the right, and out again, 1 round down and 1 stitch to the left from where you’ve just inserted, and pull through.

Pass your needle up and underneath the horizontal strand you’ve just created and pull through. Then, insert your needle back into the same space as you’ve last exited from.

Pull your thread through and tug it down slightly until it forms a V-shape. Gently tie both ends together inside your piece, but take extra care not to pull the threads too tight!

Adding Blush:

Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a blush line using pink embroidery floss or yarn next to each eye.

Each blush line should start 1 round down (between rounds 9 and 10) and 1 stitch outwards from where each eye was inserted, and span 1 stitch length outwards (away from the center of the face).

Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 1 stitch outwards from where you’ve inserted the eye.

Pull through, leaving some tail inside for tying later. Then, insert your needle back in, 1 more stitch outwards.

If using yarn, you may skip ahead to tying both ends together on the inside of your piece.

If using embroidery floss, pass your needle back out through the same space as you’ve last exited from and pull through. Reinsert your needle, again, 1 stitch outwards in the same place as before.

Repeat these last steps 3 more times, or until you are satisfied with the size of your blush. Then, gently tie both ends together on the inside of your piece, taking extra care not to pull the threads too tight!

Crochet Ghost – Rounds 14 to 17:

Continue to the next round and begin stuffing as you go.

You will be working round 14 into the same loop of each stitch as where you’ve joined your last round. Again, the 3rd loop is located just behind the back loop, on the back side of your half double crochet stitch.

Rnd 14: in 3rd loop only of each st around, [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).

Rnd 15: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).

Rnd 16: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 17: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join (6).

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing closed.

Sewing Closed:

To sew the bottom hole closed, pass the needle, from front to back, through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight. Secure your sewing with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.

Crochet Ghost – Rounds 18 and 19:

You will now be working the last two rounds off of the front and back loops that you left remaining back in round 13.

If you chose to work round 14 into the back loops only, instead of the third loops, you will instead be working round 18 into the front loops only.

Join yarn A (white) by inserting your hook into any pair of front and back loops leftover from round 13. Pull up a loop of yarn A and chain 1.

Rnd 18: 2sc into each st around, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (60).

Rnd 19: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 30 times, join (90).

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Conclusion | Free Crochet Ghost Amigurumi

And with that, you’re done the free Ghost Cutie crochet pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out all of its companion patterns in the Halloween Cuties collection: the Candy Corn Cutie, the Candy Cutie, the Candy Apple Cutie, the Potion Cauldron Cutie, and the Witch Hat Cutie!

You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!

If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!

And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!

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