Pumped into this free crochet heart pattern are all the fond feelings of budding romances—the way your heart quickens at the sound of their voice, the sudden swell of butterflies filling your stomach, and the warmth of a blush blossoming across your cheeks.
While you wait to hear from that special someone, work out some of those giggly, giddy nerves with this free heart amigurumi pattern!
So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Heart Cutie, part one of three in the Valentine’s Cuties collection!
Pattern Information | Free Crochet Heart Amigurumi
Supplies:
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- Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 1 color:
- Yarn A – pink (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Persimmon)
- 10mm black safety eyes (x2)
- Black embroidery floss
- Pink embroidery floss (example uses DMC 963 Light Dusty Rose) or pink yarn
- Polyester fiberfill
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Alternate Yarn Supplies:
Color Variation 2 (as seen on the right in cover photo):
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 1 color:
- Yarn A – red (example uses Mainstays: Red V)
Terminology:
This free crochet heart pattern uses English (US) terminology:
- st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.
Special Stitch Instructions | Free Crochet Heart Amigurumi
Please read through all special stitch instructions carefully before beginning your project, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.
This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.
Single Crochet:
This pattern uses a variation of the traditional single crochet stitch, sometimes referred to as the YU/YO (yarn under/yarn over) method.
Instead of yarning over before pulling through, this method utilizes a yarn under technique on the first pass of each stitch, as seen below.
Begin by inserting your hook into the next stitch, then yarn under (not over) as shown above. Pull through the stitch, then yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your single crochet.
Using the above technique produces a slightly tighter and stiffer fabric than traditional single crochet stitches. This method minimizes holes between stitches, improves shaping, and decreases stitch slanting.
This pattern will still work with the traditional technique of single crochet stitches, so choose what works best for you—just be wary that your project may result in having slight visual differences than those shown in examples if using the traditional method.
Invisible Decrease:
This pattern uses a variation of the single crochet decrease stitch, often called an invisible decrease. This method produces a tighter stitch that improves shaping and blends in more seamlessly with regular stitches.
Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch, then insert into the front loop only of the second stitch in the same way.
Yarn under (not over) as shown above and pull through both front loops. Yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your invisible decrease.
Joining Rounds:
Unless otherwise stated, each round in this pattern is joined at the end with a slip stitch into the first stitch of the round, followed by one or more chain stitches.
For a cleaner seam, and to ensure that these stitches are not accidentally worked into later, tighten both the slip stitch and chain as shown below.
Hold your working loop firmly on your hook and pull up with your hook until your slip stitch is tight. Then, pull back on your working tail until your loop is back to fitting snugly around your hook.
Repeat these steps with the following one or more chain stitches before your next round, as well.
Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Heart Amigurumi
Crochet Heart – Rounds 1 to 6:
With yarn A (pink), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 4: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (21).
Rnd 5: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (21).
Rnd 6: 1sc into each st around, join (21).
Fasten off and leave an 8-12 inch tail for sewing.
Set aside for now. This will be heart piece #1.
With yarn A (pink), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 4: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (21).
Rnd 5: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (21).
Rnd 6: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (21).
This will heart piece #2. Do not fasten off, as we will continue directly off of heart piece #2 to connect both pieces together.
Crochet Heart – Connecting Pieces:
Before continuing, skip the first 3 stitches in your next round and add a stitch marker to the 4th stitch of heart piece #2.
Then, retrieve the heart piece #1 set aside earlier and align it with your current work so that the first stitch of round 6 of heart piece #1 is lined up to be right after your last stitch you’ve just worked in heart piece #2.
You will be working your first stitch of round 7 into this stitch from heart piece #1.
Rnd 7: 1sc into 1st st of heart piece #1, 1sc into each of next 17 sts, 1sc into marked (or 4th) st of heart piece #2, 1sc into each of next 17 sts, join, ch 1 (36).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker.
You will now see that both heart pieces are joined together, with the exception of 3 stitches of each on the inside of the piece.
Using the 8-12 inch tail left over from heart piece #1, sew this slit closed.
For best results, try sewing a total of 5 pairs of stitches together — the 3 pairs of stitches that were not worked into during round 7, as well as each pair of stitches on either side of this length (where the 1st and 36th stitches of round 7 were worked into and the 18th and 19th stitches were worked into).
Secure your sewing with a knot to the interior of the piece and trim any excess tail. Remove your stitch marker and continue to round 8.
Crochet Heart – Rounds 8 to 13:
Rnd 8: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 9: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 10: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 11: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 12: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 13: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 7 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (32).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow instructions for adding eyes, mouth, and blush before continuing.
Please note, however, that the tutorial images for adding the mouth vary slightly from the alternative instructions that are specifically used in the example Heart Cutie. Please read the Adding Mouth section carefully in order to choose the method that’s best for you.
Adding Eyes:
Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through the front of your piece (on the opposite side from your joining seam) and centered with your heart shape.
The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 9 and 10 and should sit 6 stitches apart.
Adding Mouth:
Please note that the tutorial images below vary slightly from the written instructions provided for the specific method used in the example crochet heart. Please read this section carefully in order to choose the right method for you.
Firstly, begin by rotating your piece so that the beginning rounds face upwards and your last round faces downwards.
The tutorial images below show how to embroider the face exactly as it appears on the two accompanying cuties in the Valentine’s Cuties set. If you want an exact replica, you may follow the images below, unchanged.
If you are following the images as is, the mouth should be embroidered over top of round 11 and be centered between the eyes. The mouth will be 2 stitches wide and 1 round tall.
The method used in the example Heart Cutie photos, however, has the mouth embroidered one round lower.
Because the center stitches of this crochet heart pattern arc slightly upwards as you continue decreasing, I’ve found that I prefer the look of the mouth to be slightly lower, as to counteract this skewing and visually match better with the rest of the set.
Therefore, if you would like your heart to match the example photos, the mouth should be embroidered over top of round 12, not 11, and be centered between the eyes. The mouth will still be 2 stitches wide and 1 round tall and otherwise be embroidered the same.
Choose whichever method you prefer and, using the example piece below as reference, embroider a mouth using black embroidery floss.
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down (or 2 rounds down, if matching the example Heart Cutie) and 2 stitches to the right from where you’ve inserted the left eye. Pull through and leave some tail for tying later.
Then, insert your needle again, 2 stitches to the right, and out again, 1 round down and 1 stitch to the left from where you’ve just inserted, and pull through.
Pass your needle up and underneath the horizontal strand you’ve just created and pull through. Then, insert your needle back into the same space as you’ve last exited from.
Pull your thread through and tug it down slightly until it forms a V-shape. Gently tie both ends together inside your piece, but take extra care not to pull the threads too tight!
Adding Blush:
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a blush line using pink embroidery floss next to each eye.
Each blush line should start 1 round down (between rounds 13 and 14) and 1 stitch outwards from where each eye was inserted, and span 1 stitch length outwards (away from the center of the face).
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 1 stitch outwards from where you’ve inserted the eye, and pull through.
Then, insert your needle back in, 1 more stitch outwards, and back out through the same space as you’ve last exited from. Pull through and repeat this 4 more times.
On the next pass, insert your needle as normal but do not exit. Instead, pull through and remove your needle, then gently tie both ends together on the inside of your piece, taking extra care not to pull the threads too tight!
Crochet Heart – Rounds 14 to 20:
Continue to the next round and begin stuffing as you go.
Rnd 14: [1sc into each of next 6 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (28).
Rnd 15: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 16: [1sc into each of next 4 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (20).
Rnd 17: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (16).
Rnd 18: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 19: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (8).
Rnd 20: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 4 times, join (4).
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing closed.
Sewing Closed:
To sew the bottom hole closed, pass the needle (front to back) through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight. Secure the tail with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.
Conclusion | Free Crochet Heart Amigurumi
And with that, you’re done the free crochet Heart Cutie pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out its two companion patterns, the Chocolate Bar Cutie and the Chocolate Covered Strawberry Cutie!
You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!
If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!
And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!
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