Grown into this free crochet squash amigurumi pattern are all the homey happenings of harvest time gatherings—the busy chatter of too many hands in the kitchen, the rhythmic chopping of fresh vegetables being prepared for a stew, and the thick incense of spices wafting through the air as you warm your fingers over the oven’s cracked door.
While the hearty harvest soups simmer on the stove, how better to pass the time than with this free crochet squash amigurumi pattern!
So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Squash Cutie, part three of three in the Thanksgiving Cuties collection!
Pattern Information | Free Crochet Squash Amigurumi
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Supplies:
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- Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 3 colors:
- Yarn A – brown (example uses Craft Smart Value: Espresso)
- Yarn B – light yellow (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Pale Yellow)
- Yarn C – gold (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Gold)
- 10mm black safety eyes (x2)
- Black embroidery floss
- Pink embroidery floss (example uses DMC 963 Light Dusty Rose) or pink yarn
- Polyester fiberfill
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Alternate Yarn Supplies:
Color Variation 2 (as seen on the right in cover photo):
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 3 colors:
- Yarn A – brown (example uses Craft Smart Value: Espresso)
- Yarn B – light yellow (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Pale Yellow)
- Yarn C – green (example uses Big Twist Value: Light Green)
Terminology:
This free crochet squash pattern uses English (US) terminology:
- st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
- BLO = back loop only
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.
Special Stitch Instructions | Free Crochet Squash Amigurumi
Please read through all special stitch instructions carefully before beginning your project, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.
This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.
Single Crochet:
This pattern uses a variation of the traditional single crochet stitch, sometimes referred to as the YU/YO (yarn under/yarn over) method.
Instead of yarning over before pulling through, this method utilizes a yarn under technique on the first pass of each stitch, as seen below.
Begin by inserting your hook into the next stitch, then yarn under (not over) as shown above. Pull through the stitch, then yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your single crochet.
Using the above technique produces a slightly tighter and stiffer fabric than traditional single crochet stitches. This method minimizes holes between stitches, improves shaping, and decreases stitch slanting.
This pattern will still work with the traditional technique of single crochet stitches, so choose what works best for you—just be wary that your project may result in having slight visual differences than those shown in examples if using the traditional method.
Invisible Decrease:
This pattern uses a variation of the single crochet decrease stitch, often called an invisible decrease. This method produces a tighter stitch that improves shaping and blends in more seamlessly with regular stitches.
Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch, then insert into the front loop only of the second stitch in the same way.
Yarn under (not over) as shown above and pull through both front loops. Yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your invisible decrease.
Joining Rounds:
Unless otherwise stated, each round in this pattern is joined at the end with a slip stitch into the first stitch of the round, followed by one or more chain stitches.
For a cleaner seam, and to ensure that these stitches are not accidentally worked into later, tighten both the slip stitch and chain as shown below.
Hold your working loop firmly on your hook and pull up with your hook until your slip stitch is tight. Then, pull back on your working tail until your loop is back to fitting snugly around your hook.
Repeat these steps with the following one or more chain stitches before your next round, as well.
Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Changing Colors:
This free crochet squash pattern uses a mid-round color changing technique, as seen below, to create its distinctive vertical stripes.
This color changing method begins in the stitch immediately before the stitch that you want to be a different color. Begin this stitch as normal by inserting into the next stitch, yarning under, and pulling through.
Before the last pull through, however, drop your current color and instead grab the new color you want to change to. Yarn over this new color and pull through both of the loops remaining on your hook.
This free crochet squash pattern specifically will be changing colors for only 1 stitch at a time. Repeat these steps again on the next stitch, but this time switching back to your first color.
After dropping a color, do not cut it off. Instead, allow your yarn to ‘float’ in the back, or interior, of your work until you are ready to pick it up again. However, be careful not to let these floating strands be pulled tight when you pick them back up!
Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Squash Amigurumi
Crochet Squash – Rounds 1 to 22:
With yarn A (brown), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: 1sc into BLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 3: 1sc into each st around, join (6).
Fasten off and leave a short tail for tying.
Join yarn B (light yellow) by inserting your hook into the first stitch of the next round. Pull up a loop of yarn B, and chain 1.
Tie the tails of both yarn A and yarn B together on the interior of your piece to secure your ends. Retrieve yarn C, as well, and leave it on standby.
Rnd 4: 2sc into each st around, change to yarn C, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 5: [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, 2sc into next st and change to yarn C] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 6: [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, 1sc into next st, 2sc into next st and change to yarn C] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 7: [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, 1sc into each of next 2 sts, 2sc into next st and change to yarn C] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 8: [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, 1sc into each of next 4 sts and change to yarn C] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnds 9 to 22 (14 rnds): Repeat rnd 8 (30).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the instructions for adding the eyes, mouth, and blush before continuing.
Adding Eyes:
Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through the front of your piece (on the opposite side from your joining seam).
The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 17 and 18 and should sit 6 stitches apart, from the center of one eye to the center of the other.
For best results, align your eyes so that each eye is overlapping with one of your vertical stripes.
Adding Mouth:
Rotate your piece so that the beginning rounds face upwards and your last round faces downwards.
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a mouth using black embroidery floss.
The mouth should be embroidered over top of round 19 and be centered between the eyes. The mouth will be 2 stitches wide and 1 round tall.
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 2 stitches to the right from where you’ve inserted the left eye. Pull through and leave some tail for tying later.
Then, insert your needle again, 2 stitches to the right, and out again, 1 round down and 1 stitch to the left from where you’ve just inserted, and pull through.
Pass your needle up and underneath the horizontal strand you’ve just created and pull through. Then, insert your needle back into the same space as you’ve last exited from.
Pull your thread through and tug it down slightly until it forms a V-shape. Gently tie both ends together inside your piece.
Take extra care as you tie your ends not to pull the threads too tight! After finishing your knot, trim any excess length.
Adding Blush:
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a blush line using pink embroidery floss or yarn next to each eye.
Each blush line should start 1 round down (between rounds 18 and 19) and 1 stitch outwards from where each eye was inserted, and span 1 stitch length outwards (away from the center of the face).
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 1 stitch outwards from where you’ve inserted the eye.
Pull through, leaving some tail inside for tying later. Then, insert your needle back in, 1 more stitch outwards.
If using yarn, you may skip ahead to tying both ends together on the inside of your piece.
If using embroidery floss, pass your needle back out through the same space as you’ve last exited from and pull through. Reinsert your needle, again, 1 stitch outwards in the same place as before.
Repeat these last steps 3 more times, or until you are satisfied with the size of your blush. Then, gently tie both ends together on the inside of your piece.
Take extra care as you tie your ends not to pull the threads too tight! After finishing your knot, trim any excess length.
Crochet Squash – Rounds 23 to 26:
Continue to the next round and begin stuffing as you go.
Rnd 23: [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts and change to yarn C] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 24: [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into next st and change to yarn C] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 25: [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, sc2tog over next 2 sts and change to yarn C] 6 times, join, ch 1 (12).
Cut off yarn B and secure your tail with a knot on the interior of your piece. Then, cut any excess length. You will finish the remainder of the pattern with yarn C only.
Rnd 26: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join (6).
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing closed.
Sewing Closed:
To sew the bottom hole closed, pass the needle, from front to back, through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight. Secure your sewing with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.
Conclusion | Free Crochet Squash Amigurumi
And with that, you’re done the free crochet Squash Cutie pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out its two companion patterns in the Thanksgiving Cuties collection: the Corn Cutie and the Turkey Leg Cutie!
You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!
If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!
And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!
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