Farmed into this free crochet corn amigurumi pattern are all the autumnal awes of harvest time gatherings—the comforting hum of a hayride’s engine, the gentle bumping as you travel down the dirt roads of fragrant farmland, and the soft chorus of cornstalks swaying gently in the cool breeze.
While the hearty harvest soups simmer on the stove, how better to pass the time than with this free crochet corn amigurumi pattern!
So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Corn Cutie, part one of three in the Thanksgiving Cuties collection!
Pattern Information | Free Crochet Corn Amigurumi
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Supplies:
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- Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 2 colors:
- Yarn A – yellow (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Pale Yellow)
- Yarn B – green (example uses Big Twist Value: Light Green)
- 10mm black safety eyes (x2)
- Black embroidery floss
- Pink embroidery floss (example uses DMC 963 Light Dusty Rose) or pink yarn
- Polyester fiberfill
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Alternate Yarn Supplies:
Color Variation 2 (as seen on the right in cover photo):
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 3 colors:
- Yarn A – switch between 2 different colors
- yellow (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Pale Yellow)
- white (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Soft White)
- Yarn B – green (example uses Big Twist Value: Light Green)
- Yarn A – switch between 2 different colors
This color variation uses the same palette as color variation 1 (as seen in the tutorial), except that two yarns are used for yarn A.
To achieve the look of the crochet corn seen on the right, simply color change from yellow to white before any chosen popcorn stitch in the pattern, then change back at the end of that stitch.
You may plan ahead or choose your white popcorn stitches at random as you go. Add as many or as few white kernels as you desire!
Terminology:
This free crochet corn pattern uses English (US) terminology:
- st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- pc = (small) popcorn stitch*
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.
*Be sure to read through the special instructions for the popcorn stitch before beginning, as it may be unique for this crochet corn pattern.
Special Stitch Instructions | Free Crochet Corn Amigurumi
Please read through all special stitch instructions carefully before beginning your project, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.
This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.
Single Crochet:
This pattern uses a variation of the traditional single crochet stitch, sometimes referred to as the YU/YO (yarn under/yarn over) method.
Instead of yarning over before pulling through, this method utilizes a yarn under technique on the first pass of each stitch, as seen below.
Begin by inserting your hook into the next stitch, then yarn under (not over) as shown above. Pull through the stitch, then yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your single crochet.
Using the above technique produces a slightly tighter and stiffer fabric than traditional single crochet stitches. This method minimizes holes between stitches, improves shaping, and decreases stitch slanting.
This pattern will still work with the traditional technique of single crochet stitches, so choose what works best for you—just be wary that your project may result in having slight visual differences than those shown in examples if using the traditional method.
Invisible Decrease:
This pattern uses a variation of the single crochet decrease stitch, often called an invisible decrease. This method produces a tighter stitch that improves shaping and blends in more seamlessly with regular stitches.
Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch, then insert into the front loop only of the second stitch in the same way.
Yarn under (not over) as shown above and pull through both front loops. Yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your invisible decrease.
Joining Rounds:
Unless otherwise stated, each round in this pattern is joined at the end with a slip stitch into the first stitch of the round, followed by one or more chain stitches.
For a cleaner seam, and to ensure that these stitches are not accidentally worked into later, tighten both the slip stitch and chain as shown below.
Hold your working loop firmly on your hook and pull up with your hook until your slip stitch is tight. Then, pull back on your working tail until your loop is back to fitting snugly around your hook.
Repeat these steps with the following one or more chain stitches before your next round, as well.
Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Small Popcorn Stitch:
This free crochet corn pattern uses a variation of the popcorn stitch that utilizes only 3 double crochet stitches, instead of the more common 5 double crochet, as seen below.
Begin by working 3 double crochet into the next stitch. Then, pull up your working loop (large enough that your last stitch will not be accidentally pulled undone) and remove your hook.
Next, insert your hook, from front to back, through the top of the first double crochet you’ve made in the 3 double crochet sequence. Now, pull your working loop from the third double crochet through the top of the first double crochet.
Lastly, pull your working tail so that your working loop fits back snugly around your hook and continue to your next stitch.
Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Corn Amigurumi
Crochet Corn Cob – Rounds 1 to 19:
With yarn A (yellow), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (9).
Rnd 4: [(1sc, 1pc) into next st, 1sc into next st, 1pc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 5: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (15).
Rnd 6: [(1sc, 1pc) into next st, 1sc into next st, 1pc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1pc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 7: [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (21).
Rnd 8: [(1sc, 1pc) into next st, 1sc into next st, 1pc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1pc into next st, 1sc into next st, 1pc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 9: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 10: [1sc into next st, 1pc into next st] 12 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 11: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 12: [1sc into next st, 1pc into next st] 12 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 13: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 14: [1sc into next st, 1pc into next st] 4 times, 1sc into each of next 8 sts, [1sc into next st, 1pc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 15: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 16: [1sc into next st, 1pc into next st] 5 times, 1sc into each of next 4 sts, [1sc into next st, 1pc into next st] 5 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 17: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 18: [1sc into next st, 1pc into next st] 12 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 19: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (24).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the instructions for adding the eyes, mouth, and blush before continuing.
Adding Eyes:
Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through the front of your piece (on the opposite side from your joining seam, in the gap where you omitted the popcorn stitches).
The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 14 and 15 and should sit 6 stitches apart, from the center of one eye to the center of the other.
Adding Mouth:
Rotate your piece so that the beginning rounds face upwards and your last round faces downwards.
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a mouth using black embroidery floss.
The mouth should be embroidered over top of round 16 and be centered between the eyes. The mouth will be 2 stitches wide and 1 round tall.
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 2 stitches to the right from where you’ve inserted the left eye. Pull through and leave some tail for tying later.
Then, insert your needle again, 2 stitches to the right, and out again, 1 round down and 1 stitch to the left from where you’ve just inserted, and pull through.
Pass your needle up and underneath the horizontal strand you’ve just created and pull through. Then, insert your needle back into the same space as you’ve last exited from.
Pull your thread through and tug it down slightly until it forms a V-shape. Gently tie both ends together inside your piece.
Take extra care as you tie your ends not to pull the threads too tight! After finishing your knot, trim any excess length.
Adding Blush:
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a blush line using pink embroidery floss or yarn next to each eye.
Each blush line should start 1 round down (between rounds 15 and 16) and 1 stitch outwards from where each eye was inserted, and span 1 stitch length outwards (away from the center of the face).
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 1 stitch outwards from where you’ve inserted the eye.
Pull through, leaving some tail inside for tying later. Then, insert your needle back in, 1 more stitch outwards.
If using yarn, you may skip ahead to tying both ends together on the inside of your piece.
If using embroidery floss, pass your needle back out through the same space as you’ve last exited from and pull through. Reinsert your needle, again, 1 stitch outwards in the same place as before.
Repeat these last steps 3 more times, or until you are satisfied with the size of your blush. Then, gently tie both ends together on the inside of your piece.
Take extra care as you tie your ends not to pull the threads too tight! After finishing your knot, trim any excess length.
Crochet Corn Cob – Rounds 20 to 22:
Continue to the next round and begin stuffing as you go.
Rnd 20: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 21: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 22: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join (6).
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing closed.
Sewing Closed:
To sew the bottom hole closed, pass the needle, from front to back, through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight. Secure your sewing with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.
Crochet Corn Husk – Rounds 1 to 15:
With yarn B (green), leave a short tail for tying later, ch 4, sl st into 1st ch to form a ring, ch 24, sl st into 4th ch from hook to form a 2nd ring.
You should now have a length of 20 chain stitches in the middle with a 4-chain ring on each end.
Each new row will start in the stitch after the last ring that was created or worked into, and end with creating or working into the ring on the opposite side of the row.
Do not count rings in stitch counts. Do not count or work into slip stitches that have been worked into the rings.
Optional: for cleaner edges, try working all of the following husk rows into the back bars (not the back loops) of the chain stitches, whenever applicable.
Row 1: 1sc into each of next 3 sts, 1hdc into each of next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 12 sts, 1hdc in next st, 1sc into next st, sl st into ring, ch 1, turn (20).
Row 2: 1sc into next st, 1hdc into next st, 1dc into each of next 12 sts, 1hdc into each of next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, sl st into ring, ch 1, turn (20).
Row 3: 1sc into each of next 3 sts, 1hdc into each of next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 12 sts, 1hdc in next st, 1sc into next st, sl st into ring, ch 1, turn (20).
Row 4: sl st into each of next 12 sts, ch 12, sl st into 4th ch from hook to form a ring (20).
Row 5: 1sc into each of next 3 sts, 1hdc into each of next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 12 sts, 1hdc in next st, 1sc into next st, sl st into ring, ch 1, turn (20).
Row 6: 1sc into next st, 1hdc into next st, 1dc into each of next 12 sts, 1hdc into each of next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, sl st into ring, ch 1, turn (20).
Row 7: 1sc into each of next 3 sts, 1hdc into each of next 3 sts, 1dc into each of next 12 sts, 1hdc in next st, 1sc into next st, sl st into ring, ch 1, turn (20).
Repeat rows 4 to 7 a total of 2 more times, for an end total of 15 rows and 4 leaves. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing the husk onto the crochet corn cob.
Crochet Corn – Assembly:
To sew the husk to the cob, position your husk around your corn cob so that the leaf tips point upward and the cob’s face is visible through the gap between the first and fourth leaves.
To make sewing easier, you may fold the leaves downward and then fold them back up around the cob after you are finished sewing.
With the end tail leftover from the husk, sew through the bottom center of the cob and out again through an adjacent stitch.
To finish, tighten and secure your tail with a knot to the beginning tail from your husk, trim the tails, and sew in any remaining length.
Conclusion | Free Crochet Corn Amigurumi
And with that, you’re done the free crochet Corn Cutie pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out its two companion patterns in the Thanksgiving Cuties collection: the Turkey Leg Cutie and the Squash Cutie!
You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!
If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!
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