Oinking from this free crochet pig pattern are all the countryside comforts of a bustling barnyard—rows of newborn crops peaking out from freshly turned soil, curious little piglets splashing in the muddy remnants of a spring shower, and the golden sun settling behind a whirling windmill.
While you wait for the cattle to feed and the crops to grow, how better to pass the time than with this free pig amigurumi pattern!
So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Pig Pocket Pet, part three of three in the Farm Pocket Pets collection!
Pattern Information | Free Crochet Pig Amigurumi
Supplies:
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- Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 2 colors:
- Yarn A – light pink (example uses Big Twist Value: Light Rose)
- Yarn B – dark pink (example uses Big Twist Value: Cosmetic Pink)
- 10mm black safety eyes (x2)
- Black embroidery floss
- Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Perfect Pink)
- Polyester fiberfill
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Alternate Yarn Supplies:
Color Variation 2 (as seen on the left in cover photo):
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 2 colors:
- Yarn A – gray (example uses Mainstays Basic Yarn: Medium Gray Heather)
- Yarn B – light pink (example uses Big Twist Value: Light Rose)
Terminology:
This free crochet pig pattern uses English (US) terminology:
- st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
- sc3tog = single crochet 3 together (over the span of 3 stitches)
- sk = skip
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.
Special Stitch Instructions | Free Crochet Pig Amigurumi
Please read through all special stitch instructions carefully before beginning your project, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.
This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.
Single Crochet:
This pattern uses a variation of the traditional single crochet stitch, sometimes referred to as the YU/YO (yarn under/yarn over) method.
Instead of yarning over before pulling through, this method utilizes a yarn under technique on the first pass of each stitch, as seen below.
Begin by inserting your hook into the next stitch, then yarn under (not over) as shown above. Pull through the stitch, then yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your single crochet.
Using the above technique produces a slightly tighter and stiffer fabric than traditional single crochet stitches. This method minimizes holes between stitches, improves shaping, and decreases stitch slanting.
This pattern will still work with the traditional technique of single crochet stitches, so choose what works best for you—just be wary that your project may result in having slight visual differences than those shown in examples if using the traditional method.
Invisible Decrease:
This pattern uses a variation of the single crochet decrease stitch, often called an invisible decrease. This method produces a tighter stitch that improves shaping and blends in more seamlessly with regular stitches.
Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch, then insert into the front loop only of the second stitch in the same way.
Yarn under (not over) as shown above and pull through both front loops. Yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your invisible decrease.
Joining Rounds:
Unless otherwise stated, each round in this pattern is joined at the end with a slip stitch into the first stitch of the round, followed by one or more chain stitches.
For a cleaner seam, and to ensure that these stitches are not accidentally worked into later, tighten both the slip stitch and chain as shown below.
Hold your working loop firmly on your hook and pull up with your hook until your slip stitch is tight. Then, pull back on your working tail until your loop is back to fitting snugly around your hook.
Repeat these steps with the following one or more chain stitches before your next round, as well.
Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Pig Amigurumi
Crochet Pig Ears:
With yarn A (light pink), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: [1sc into next st, 3sc into next st] 2 times, 2sc into each of next 2 sts, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 3: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join (18).
Fasten off yarn A and leave a tail for sewing. This is your first ear.
With yarn A (light pink), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: 2sc into each of next 2 sts, [3sc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 3: [2sc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, [1sc into next st, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 2 times, join (18).
Fasten off yarn A and leave a tail for sewing. This is your second ear.
Crochet Pig Snout:
With yarn B (dark pink), chain 3.
Rnd 1: beginning in 2nd ch from hook, *1sc into next st, 2sc into next st,* working into other side of ch sts, rep from * to * 1 time, do not join (6).
Rnd 2: sl st into each st around (6).
Fasten off yarn B and leave an end tail for sewing.
Optional: follow the instructions below to finish off your crochet cow snout with a clean, uniform edge.
With your tapestry needle, take your end tail and pass it beneath both loops of your first slip stitch from round 2.
Then, insert your needle through the middle of the last slip stitch you’ve created (between your front and back loops) and pull your tail through to the back of your piece. Pull your tail snugly, but not too tight!
Remove your needle and set aside for now. Do not cut your tail, as you will be using it later to sew the snout onto the face.
Crochet Pig Head – Rounds 1 to 13:
With yarn A (light pink), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 3 times, [1sc into next st, 3sc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (19).
Rnd 4: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 3 times, [1sc into each of next 2 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (26).
Rnd 5: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 3 times, [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (33).
Rnd 6: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (33).
Rnd 7: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (33).
Rnd 8: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (33).
Rnd 9: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (33).
Rnd 10: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (33).
Rnd 11: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (33).
Rnd 12: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (33).
Rnd 13: sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 30 sts, 2sc into next st, join, ch 1 (33).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the instructions below for adding the spots, eyes, blush, ears, horns, and snout before continuing to round 14.
Adding Eyes:
Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through the center of the front of your head.
The front of the head should be on the flattest side (between your 3sc increases in rounds 3 to 5), a quarter turn before your joining seam.
The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 10 and 11 and should sit 6 stitches apart.
Adding Blush:
Rotate your piece so that the beginning rounds face upwards and your last round faces downwards.
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a blush line using pink embroidery floss or yarn next to each eye.
Each blush line should start 1 round down (between rounds 11 and 12) and 1 stitch outwards from where each eye was inserted, and span 1 stitch length outwards (away from the center of the face).
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 1 stitch outwards from where you’ve inserted the eye.
Pull through, leaving some tail inside for tying later. Then, insert your needle back in, 1 more stitch outwards.
If using medium weight yarn, you may skip ahead to tying both ends together on the inside of your piece.
If using embroidery floss, pass your needle back out through the same space as you’ve last exited from. Pull through and repeat both steps 4 more times.
On the next pass, insert your needle as normal but do not exit. Instead, pull through and remove your needle, then gently tie both ends together on the inside of your piece, taking extra care not to pull the threads too tight!
Attaching Ears:
Retrieve both ears that you’ve set aside earlier.
On each ear, fold the triangular corner closest to the end tail over—about the length of 1 stitch—toward the rounded corner on the other side of the end tail.
Then, using the end tail leftover from fastening off, you will now be sewing the small fold into place and attaching each ear onto the top of the head.
The folded sides of the ears should face forward with the face.
Align your first ear on the side of the crochet pig head so that the folded end of the ear is facing towards the center of the head and the rounded corner is spanning outwards.
Each ear should start over round 5—about 2 stitches toward the back of the head from where the 3sc corners in round 5 are located—and continue spanning about 1 or 2 more rounds straight outwards.
Sew along the bottom edge of the ear, and secure with a knot on the interior of your piece. Trim any excess length.
Repeat on the other side of the head, with the second ear mirroring the first.
Attaching Snout:
Retrieve and position the snout so that it is horizontal and centered between the eyes, with the top edge laying one round lower than where you’ve inserted the eyes.
Using the end tail leftover from fastening off, sew the snout onto the face, taking care not to sew over the top loops of your current round.
Secure with a knot on the inside of the head and trim any excess length.
Then, with a length of black embroidery floss, embroider two small nostril slits onto the snout, as shown above.
Without pulling too tight, tie the beginning and end tails of your floss together on the inside of the head to secure your embroidery, then cut any excess length.
Crochet Pig Head – Rounds 14 to 16:
Continue to the next round and begin stuffing as you go.
Rnd 14: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times, [1sc into each of next 3 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (26).
Rnd 15: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 3 times, [1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (19).
Rnd 16: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into next st] 3 times, [1sc into next st, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into next st] 2 times, join (12).
Fasten off yarn A and leave a short tail for tying. Set aside for now.
Crochet Pig Arms – Rounds 1 to 8:
With yarn B (dark pink), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: 1sc into each st around, join (6).
Fasten off yarn B and leave a short tail for tying.
Join yarn A (light pink) by inserting your hook into the last stitch of round 2 and pulling up a loop of yarn A.
Tie the tails of both yarn A and yarn B together on the interior of your piece to secure your ends.
Rnd 3: sl st into each st around, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 4: 1sc into BLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 5: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 6: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 7: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 8: 1sc into each st around, join (6).
Fasten off and set aside for now.
Repeat rounds 1 to 8 to create a second arm, then continue to the legs below.
Crochet Pig Legs – Rounds 1 to 6:
With yarn B (dark pink), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (8).
Fasten off yarn B and leave a short tail for tying.
Join yarn A (light pink) by inserting your hook into the last stitch of round 2 and pulling up a loop of yarn A.
Tie the tails of both yarn A and yarn B together on the interior of your piece to secure your ends.
Rnd 3: sl st into each st around, join, ch 1 (8).
Rnd 4: working in BLO of each st around, [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (10).
Rnd 5: [1sc into each of next 4 sts, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 6: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times, join (15).
This will be leg #1. Fasten off and leave a tail (~8 to 12 inches) for sewing. Set aside for now.
Repeat rounds 1 to 6 to create leg #2 before continuing to the instructions for joining legs.
With yarn B (dark pink), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (8).
Fasten off yarn B and leave a short tail for tying.
Join yarn A (light pink) by inserting your hook into the last stitch of round 2 and pulling up a loop of yarn A.
Tie the tails of both yarn A and yarn B together on the interior of your piece to secure your ends.
Rnd 3: sl st into each st around, join, ch 1 (8).
Rnd 4: working in BLO of each st around, [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (10).
Rnd 5: [1sc into each of next 4 sts, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 6: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (15).
This will be leg #2. Do not fasten off, as you will be working directly off of leg #2 to join both legs together.
Joining Legs (Round 7):
Retrieve leg #1 that you’ve set aside earlier and leave it on standby. You will be working round 7 around part of both legs to join them.
Rnd 7: 1sc into each of next 12 sts of leg #2, sk last 3 sts of leg #2, 1sc into 1st st of leg #1, 1sc into each of next 11 sts of leg #1, sk last 3 sts of leg #1, sl st into 1st st of rnd to join, ch 1 (24).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the instructions below for sewing the legs together before continuing to round 8.
You will now see that both leg pieces are joined together, with the exception of 3 stitches of each on the inside of the piece.
Using the 8-12 inch tail left over from leg #1, sew this inside slit closed.
For best results, try sewing a total of 5 pairs of stitches together — the 3 pairs of stitches that were not worked into during round 7, as well as each pair of stitches on either side of this length (where the 1st and 24th stitches of round 7 were worked into and the 12th and 13th stitches were worked into).
Secure your sewing with a knot to the interior of the piece and trim any excess tail. Remove your stitch marker and continue to round 8. Do not stuff, yet.
Crochet Pig Body – Rounds 8 to 13:
Rnd 8: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 9: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 6 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (21).
Rnd 10: [1sc into each of next 5 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 11: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (15).
Rnd 12: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (12).
Retrieve both arms set aside earlier and flatten the top round of each arm so that the stitches form two parallel lines of 3 stitches each.
During round 13, you will be working through both layers of the arm and the current round of the body all at once to connect the arms onto the body.
Alternatively, if you have trouble with this method, you may instead work a normal round of single crochet stitches (1sc into each st around, join).
If finished this way, the arms may then be sewn onto the body individually, using a length of yarn A, between rounds 12 and 13 on either side of the body.
Choose whichever method works best for you!
Rnd 13: 1sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts of both arm and body together, 1sc into each of next 4 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts of both arm and body together, 1sc into next st, join (12).
Fasten off yarn A and leave a long (~3 ft) tail for sewing.
Lastly, follow the instructions below for attaching the cow tail before adding stuffing to your body.
Crochet Pig Tail – Rounds 1 to 3:
With yarn A (light pink), leave a beginning tail for tying and chain 5.
Rnd 1: beginning in 2nd ch from hook, 3sc into each st across (12).
Fasten off and leave an end tail for tying, as well.
Center the tail over the back of the pig body, roughly over round 8 (don’t forget to count your round of slip stitches on the legs).
Then, take the end tail of the pig tail and thread it through to the inside of the body. Through an adjacent stitch (not the same stitch!), thread your beginning tail to the inside as well.
Lastly, knot the beginning and end tails of the pig tail together, on the inside of the body, and cut any excess length.
Finish the crochet pig body by stuffing until full, then follow the instructions below for sewing the body and head together.
Sewing Together:
Retrieve the head and align it in your desired direction on top of the body.
With the long end tail leftover from fastening off of the body, sew around the entire circumference of the head and body, stitch by stitch, to connect both pieces together.
If you have trouble getting your needle into the crevice between the head and neck, try sewing very loosely, as shown above, leaving a large gap between the head and the body for you to more easily maneuver in.
Then, once you’ve completed sewing around the full circumference, you may go back and tighten each strand of your sewing individually. Just be careful to tighten the strands in the same sequence as you’ve sewn them!
Once your head and body are connected, secure your sewing with a knot to the end tail from the head, or to a nearby stitch, trim your tail, and weave in any excess length.
Conclusion | Free Crochet Pig Amigurumi
And with that, you’re done the free crochet Pig Pocket Pet pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out its two companion patterns, the Chicken Pocket Pet and the Cow Pocket Pet!
You can also explore the Pocket Pets page and the Cutie Collections page for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!
If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!
And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!
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