Decorated into this free crochet ornament amigurumi pattern are all the festive feelings of holidays approaching—the wan winter landscape exploding into the color of a thousand decorations, the bustle of busy hands hanging lights all around, and the distant hubbub of a hectic holiday market calling out to your innermost indulgences.
While the embers of a yule log crackle from the fireplace, warm up your idle fingers with this free crochet ornament amigurumi pattern!
So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Ornament Cutie, part one of three in the Christmas Cuties collection!
Pattern Information | Free Crochet Ornament Amigurumi
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Supplies:
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- Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 2 colors:
- Yarn A – silver (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Light Gray)
- Yarn B – gold (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Gold)
- 10mm black safety eyes (x2)
- Black embroidery floss
- Pink embroidery floss (example uses DMC 963 Light Dusty Rose) or pink yarn
- Polyester fiberfill
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Alternate Yarn Supplies:
Color Variation 2 (as seen on the left in cover photo):
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 2 colors:
- Yarn A – silver (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Light Gray)
- Yarn B – red (example uses Mainstays: Red V)
Terminology:
This free crochet ornament pattern uses English (US) terminology:
- st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
- hdc = half double crochet
- BLO = back loop only
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.
Special Stitch Instructions | Free Crochet Ornament Amigurumi
Please read through all special stitch instructions carefully before beginning your project, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.
This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.
Single Crochet:
This pattern uses a variation of the traditional single crochet stitch, sometimes referred to as the YU/YO (yarn under/yarn over) method.
Instead of yarning over before pulling through, this method utilizes a yarn under technique on the first pass of each stitch, as seen below.
Begin by inserting your hook into the next stitch, then yarn under (not over) as shown above. Pull through the stitch, then yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your single crochet.
Using the above technique produces a slightly tighter and stiffer fabric than traditional single crochet stitches. This method minimizes holes between stitches, improves shaping, and decreases stitch slanting.
This pattern will still work with the traditional technique of single crochet stitches, so choose what works best for you—just be wary that your project may result in having slight visual differences than those shown in examples if using the traditional method.
Invisible Decrease:
This pattern uses a variation of the single crochet decrease stitch, often called an invisible decrease. This method produces a tighter stitch that improves shaping and blends in more seamlessly with regular stitches.
Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch, then insert into the front loop only of the second stitch in the same way.
Yarn under (not over) as shown above and pull through both front loops. Yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your invisible decrease.
Joining Rounds:
Unless otherwise stated, each round in this pattern is joined at the end with a slip stitch into the first stitch of the round, followed by one or more chain stitches.
For a cleaner seam, and to ensure that these stitches are not accidentally worked into later, tighten both the slip stitch and chain as shown below.
Hold your working loop firmly on your hook and pull up with your hook until your slip stitch is tight. Then, pull back on your working tail until your loop is back to fitting snugly around your hook.
Repeat these steps with the following one or more chain stitches before your next round, as well.
Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Ornament Amigurumi
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Crochet Ornament Cap – Rounds 1 to 4:
With yarn A (silver), leave a beginning tail for sewing and chain 12, pulling each chain tight after pulling through.
Fasten off and leave an end tail for sewing, as well. Set aside for now.
With yarn A (silver), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 9hdc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (9).
Rnd 2: 1sc into BLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (9).
Rnd 3: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (9).
Rnd 4: 1sc into each st around, join (9).
Fasten off and leave a short tail for tying.
Follow the directions for adding the loop to your crochet ornament cap before continuing to round 5 of the ornament body.
Crochet Ornament Cap – Adding Loop:
Retrieve the 12-chain length that you’ve set aside earlier. Using your needle, sew the beginning tail, from outside to inside, into one side of the top of your ornament cap, just below the front loops only that are leftover from round 1 of your cap.
Then, take your end tail and repeat this method on the opposite side of your ornament cap. Sew your end tail, from inside to outside, just below the front loops only leftover from round 1, on the opposite side from your beginning tail.
The resulting loop should be centered over the middle hole of round 1. Do your best to position the opening of the loop so that it is facing the front (on the opposite side of your joining seam).
If your loop is tilted slightly off-center from your seam, however, do not worry! The face position can be adjusted later to match up with this loop.
Tie both tails together on the interior of the cap to secure your loop, but take care not to pull any of the chain stitches into the interior of the cap as you tie your ends!
Cut any excess length after knotting your ends. Then, continue to round 5 of the crochet ornament body.
Crochet Ornament Body – Rounds 5 to 15:
Join yarn B (gold) by inserting your hook into the first stitch of the next round. Pull up a loop of yarn B and chain 1.
Tie the tails of both yarn A and yarn B together on the interior of your piece to secure your ends.
Rnd 5: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 6: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 7: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 7 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (27).
Rnd 8: [1sc into each of next 8 sts, 2sc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 9: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnds 10 to 15 (6 rnds): repeat rnd 9 (30).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the instructions for adding the eyes, mouth, and blush before continuing.
Adding Eyes:
Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through the front of your piece (on the opposite side from your joining seam) and centered with the loop you’ve sewn into the ornament cap.
The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 12 and 13 and should sit 6 stitches apart, from the center of one eye to the center of the other.
Adding Mouth:
Rotate your piece so that the beginning rounds face upwards and your last round faces downwards.
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a mouth using black embroidery floss.
The mouth should be embroidered over top of round 14 and be centered between the eyes. The mouth will be 2 stitches wide and 1 round tall.
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 2 stitches to the right from where you’ve inserted the left eye. Pull through and leave some tail for tying later.
Then, insert your needle again, 2 stitches to the right, and out again, 1 round down and 1 stitch to the left from where you’ve just inserted, and pull through.
Pass your needle up and underneath the horizontal strand you’ve just created and pull through. Then, insert your needle back into the same space as you’ve last exited from.
Pull your thread through and tug it down slightly until it forms a V-shape. Gently tie both ends together inside your piece.
Take extra care as you tie your ends not to pull the threads too tight! After finishing your knot, trim any excess length.
Adding Blush:
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a blush line using pink embroidery floss or yarn next to each eye.
Each blush line should start 1 round down (between rounds 13 and 14) and 1 stitch outwards from where each eye was inserted, and span 1 stitch length outwards (away from the center of the face).
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 1 stitch outwards from where you’ve inserted the eye.
Pull through, leaving some tail inside for tying later. Then, insert your needle back in, 1 more stitch outwards.
If using yarn, you may skip ahead to tying both ends together on the inside of your piece.
If using embroidery floss, pass your needle back out through the same space as you’ve last exited from and pull through. Reinsert your needle, again, 1 stitch outwards in the same place as before.
Repeat these last steps 3 more times, or until you are satisfied with the size of your blush. Then, gently tie both ends together on the inside of your piece.
Take extra care as you tie your ends not to pull the threads too tight! After finishing your knot, trim any excess length.
Crochet Ornament Body – Rounds 16 to 20:
Continue to the next round and begin stuffing as you go.
Rnd 16: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 8 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (27).
Rnd 17: [1sc into each of next 7 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 18: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 19: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 20: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join (6).
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing closed.
Sewing Closed:
To sew the bottom hole closed, pass the needle, from front to back, through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight. Secure your sewing with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.
Conclusion | Free Crochet Ornament Amigurumi
And with that, you’re done the free crochet Ornament Cutie pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out its two companion patterns in the Christmas Cuties collection: the Pine Tree Cutie and the Gift Box Cutie!
You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!
If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!
And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!
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