Crochet Gift Box | Free Crochet Pattern

Wrapped into this free crochet gift box amigurumi pattern are all the warming wonders of holidays approaching—the festive fuss to find that perfect present for the one you love most, the tip-toeing thrill of emptying out your secret gift hiding place and rushing to wrap them all before someone catches you, and the warmth you feel inside knowing how loved you are… or is that just all the hot cocoa?

While the embers of a yule log crackle from the fireplace, warm up your idle fingers with this free crochet gift box amigurumi pattern!

So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Gift Box Cutie, part three of three in the Christmas Cuties collection!

Pattern Information | Free Crochet Gift Box Amigurumi

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Supplies:

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• Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
• Medium (4) weight yarn in 2 colors:
  • Yarn A – red (example uses Mainstays: Red V)
  • Yarn B – white (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Aran)
• 10mm black safety eyes (x2)
• Black embroidery floss
• Pink embroidery floss (example uses DMC 963 Light Dusty Rose) or pink yarn
• Polyester fiberfill
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Stitch markers

Alternate Yarn Supplies:

Color Variation 2 (as seen on the right in cover photo):

• Medium (4) weight yarn in 2 colors:
  • Yarn A – gold (example uses Big Twist Value: Varsity Gold)
  • Yarn B – light yellow (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Pale Yellow)

Terminology:

This free crochet gift box pattern uses English (US) terminology:

• st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
• ch = chain stitch
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
• sc3tog = single crochet 3 together (over the span of 3 stitches)
• FLO = front loop only
• BLO = back loop only

Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.

In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.

Special Stitch Instructions | Free Crochet Gift Box Amigurumi

Please read through all special stitch instructions carefully before beginning your project, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern!

This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.

Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.

Single Crochet:

This pattern uses a variation of the traditional single crochet stitch, sometimes referred to as the YU/YO (yarn under/yarn over) method.

Instead of yarning over before pulling through, this method utilizes a yarn under technique on the first pass of each stitch, as seen below.

Begin by inserting your hook into the next stitch, then yarn under (not over) as shown above. Pull through the stitch, then yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your single crochet.

Using the above technique produces a slightly tighter and stiffer fabric than traditional single crochet stitches. This method minimizes holes between stitches, improves shaping, and decreases stitch slanting.

This pattern will still work with the traditional technique of single crochet stitches, so choose what works best for you—just be wary that your project may result in having slight visual differences than those shown in examples if using the traditional method.

Invisible Decrease:

This pattern uses a variation of the single crochet decrease stitch, often called an invisible decrease. This method produces a tighter stitch that improves shaping and blends in more seamlessly with regular stitches.

Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch, then insert into the front loop only of the second stitch in the same way.

Yarn under (not over) as shown above and pull through both front loops. Yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your invisible decrease.

Joining Rounds:

Unless otherwise stated, each round in this pattern is joined at the end with a slip stitch into the first stitch of the round, followed by one or more chain stitches.

For a cleaner seam, and to ensure that these stitches are not accidentally worked into later, tighten both the slip stitch and chain as shown below.

Hold your working loop firmly on your hook and pull up with your hook until your slip stitch is tight. Then, pull back on your working tail until your loop is back to fitting snugly around your hook.

Repeat these steps with the following one or more chain stitches before your next round, as well.

Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.

Changing Colors:

This free crochet gift box pattern uses a mid-round color changing technique, as seen below, to create its distinctive ribbon stripes.

This color changing method begins in the stitch immediately before the stitch that you want to be a different color. Begin this stitch as normal by inserting into the next stitch, yarning under, and pulling through.

Before the last pull through, however, drop your current color and instead grab the new color you want to change to. Yarn over this new color and pull through both of the loops remaining on your hook.

After dropping a color, allow your yarn to ‘float’ in the back, or interior, of your work until you are ready to pick it up again. However, be careful not to let these floating strands be pulled tight when you pick them back up!

You will want each floating strand to be loose enough to accommodate your stuffing later. Your gift box will expand as you stuff it, so make sure your floating strands will allow for this extra stretching.

Additionally, for yarn A (red), you will want to avoid your yarn stretching across the interior of your piece, as this will make stuffing your piece difficult. To solve this issue, you will want to anchor your yarn A at each corner during each round.

To anchor your floating yarn A at each corner, simply hold the floating strand along the top of your current round and work over top of yarn A as you complete each corner stitch of your box.

Repeat this on each of the four corners of your crochet gift box, and during each round. Keep your floating yarn to the back as you work over it, and allow it to drop again afterwards until your next color change.

Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Gift Box Amigurumi

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Crochet Gift Box Bow:

With yarn A (red), leave a beginning tail for sewing and chain 26. Slip stitch into the first chain to form a circle, then chain 1.

Rnd 1: 1sc into each ch around, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (26).

Rnd 2: 1sc into each st around, join (26).

Fasten off and leave an end tail for sewing, as well.

Set aside for now and continue to round 1 of the crochet gift box.

Crochet Gift Box – Rounds 1 to 6:

With yarn A (red), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, 1sc into same st and change to yarn A, 2sc into next st and change to yarn B, 1sc into next st and change to yarn A, 1sc into same st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 3: [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, 3sc into next st and change to yarn A, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (20).

Rnd 4: [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, 1sc into next st, 3sc into next st, 1sc into next st and change to yarn A, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (28).

Rnd 5: [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, 1sc into each of next 2 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts and change to yarn A, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 6: [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts and change to yarn A, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (44).

Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the instructions for adding the crochet gift box bow before continuing.

Crochet Gift Box – Adding Bow:

Retrieve your bow that you’ve set aside earlier.

Flatten the circle bow into a two-layer strip and make sure that your joining seam is in the center and on the bottom.

Then, align your flattened bow on top of your gift box so that the joining seam is centered over round 1 of your crochet gift box.

The opening of your bow should be facing the front (on the opposite side from your joining seam).

With your beginning tail, sew up through the top layer of the flattened circle. Then, staying in the center of your bow, pass your needle back down through a nearby space, through both layers of your bow and also through the center, or round 1, of the gift box top.

Remove the needle from your beginning tail and repeat the same steps using the end tail of your bow, as well.

Once both tails are threaded to the inside of your gift box, knot both tails together on the interior of your piece and trim any excess length. Then, continue to round 7 of the crochet gift box.

Crochet Gift Box – Rounds 7 to 16:

Rnd 7: in BLO of each st around, [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, 1sc into each of next 9 sts and change to yarn A, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (44).

Rnd 8: [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, 1sc into each of next 9 sts and change to yarn A, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (44).

Rnd 9: in BLO of each st around, [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts and change to yarn A, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 10: in FLO of each st around, [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, 1sc into each of next 7 sts and change to yarn A, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 11: [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, 1sc into each of next 7 sts and change to yarn A, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnds 12 to 16 (5 rnds): repeat rnd 11 (36).

Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the instructions for adding the eyes, mouth, and blush before continuing.

Adding Eyes:

Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through the front of your piece (on the opposite side from your joining seam).

The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 12 and 13 and should sit 6 stitches apart, from the center of one eye to the center of the other.

For best results, align your eyes so that the ribbon is centered between the eyes, with each eye inserted 2 stitches outwards from the edge of your ribbon.

Adding Mouth:

Rotate your piece so that the beginning rounds face upwards and your last round faces downwards.

Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a mouth using black embroidery floss.

The mouth should be embroidered over top of round 14 and be centered between the eyes, over top of your ribbon. The mouth will be 2 stitches wide and 1 round tall.

Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 2 stitches to the right from where you’ve inserted the left eye. Pull through and leave some tail for tying later.

Then, insert your needle again, 2 stitches to the right, and out again, 1 round down and 1 stitch to the left from where you’ve just inserted, and pull through.

Pass your needle up and underneath the horizontal strand you’ve just created and pull through. Then, insert your needle back into the same space as you’ve last exited from.

Pull your thread through and tug it down slightly until it forms a V-shape. Gently tie both ends together inside your piece.

Take extra care as you tie your ends not to pull the threads too tight! After finishing your knot, trim any excess length.

Adding Blush:

Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a blush line using pink embroidery floss or yarn next to each eye.

Each blush line should start 1 round down (between rounds 13 and 14) and 1 stitch outwards from where each eye was inserted, and span 1 stitch length outwards (away from the center of the face).

Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 1 stitch outwards from where you’ve inserted the eye.

Pull through, leaving some tail inside for tying later. Then, insert your needle back in, 1 more stitch outwards.

If using yarn, you may skip ahead to tying both ends together on the inside of your piece.

If using embroidery floss, pass your needle back out through the same space as you’ve last exited from and pull through. Reinsert your needle, again, 1 stitch outwards in the same place as before.

Repeat these last steps 3 more times, or until you are satisfied with the size of your blush. Then, gently tie both ends together on the inside of your piece.

Take extra care as you tie your ends not to pull the threads too tight! After finishing your knot, trim any excess length.

Crochet Gift Box – Rounds 17 to 20:

Continue to the next round and begin stuffing as you go.

Rnd 17: [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, 1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts and change to yarn A, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (28).

Rnd 18: [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, 1sc into next st, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into next st and change to yarn A, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (20).

Rnd 19: [1sc into next st and change to yarn B, sc3tog over next 3 sts and change to yarn A, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (12).

Cut off yarn B and secure your tail with a knot on the interior of your piece. Then, cut any excess length. You will finish the remainder of the pattern with yarn A only.

Rnd 20: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join (6).

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing closed.

Sewing Closed:

To sew the bottom hole closed, pass the needle, from front to back, through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight. Secure your sewing with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.

Conclusion | Free Crochet Gift Box Amigurumi

And with that, you’re done the free crochet Gift Box Cutie pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out its two companion patterns in the Christmas Cuties collection: the Ornament Cutie and the Pine Tree Cutie!

You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!

If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!

And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!

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