Crochet Bat | Free Crochet Pattern

Flying from this free crochet bat amigurumi pattern are all the spooky scenes of haunted Halloween nights—gray clouds cradling a full moon that hangs heavy in the sky, dark shapes shooting ominously through the air, and the translucent wisps of silvery substance walking through a graveyard that surely is just a bit of fog… right?

With Halloween inching towards you like a ghost in the night, how better to soothe your shaking hands than with this free crochet bat amigurumi pattern!

So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Bat Pocket Pet, part 1 of 3 in the Halloween Pocket Pets collection!

Pattern Information | Free Crochet Bat Amigurumi

Supplies:

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• Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
• Medium (4) weight yarn in 2 colors:
  • Yarn A – medium purple (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Lavender)
  • Yarn B – light purple (example uses Caron One Pound: Lilac)
• 10mm black safety eyes (x2)
• Black yarn (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Black)
• White yarn (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Soft White)
• Pink yarn (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Perfect Pink)
• Polyester fiberfill
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Stitch markers

Alternate Yarn Supplies:

Color Variation 2 (as seen on the left in cover photo):

• Medium (4) weight yarn in 2 colors:
  • Yarn A – dark gray (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Charcoal)
  • Yarn B – medium gray (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Dusty Gray)

Terminology:

This free crochet bat amigurumi pattern uses English (US) terminology:

• st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
• ch = chain stitch
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
• sc3tog = single crochet 3 together (over the span of 3 stitches)
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• sk = skip

Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.

In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.

You can learn more about how to read Virkadia patterns on our Pattern Help FAQ page!

Special Stitch Instructions:

Please review our special stitch instructions on our Stitch Tutorials FAQ before beginning, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.

You can also watch our amigurumi techniques video tutorial for all of our tips and tricks for improving your project!

This free crochet bat amigurumi pattern uses the following special stitch tutorials:

• Single Crochet (YU/YO Method)
• Invisible Decrease
• Joining Rounds

This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.

Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.

Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Bat Amigurumi

Crochet Bat Ears:

With yarn A (medium purple), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: 1sc into each of next 2 sts, (1hdc, 1dc) into next st, (1dc, 1hdc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts, join, ch 1 (8).

Rnd 3: 1sc into each of next 3 sts, (1hdc, 1dc) into next st, (1dc, 1hdc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, join, ch 1 (10).

Rnd 4: 1sc into each of next 4 sts, (1hdc, 1dc) into next st, (1dc, 1hdc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 5: 1sc into each of next 5 sts, (1hdc, 1dc) into next st, (1dc, 1hdc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 5 sts, join, ch 1 (14).

Rnd 6: 1sc into each of next 6 sts, (1hdc, 1dc) into next st, (1dc, 1hdc) into next st, 1sc into each of next 6 sts, join (16).

Fasten off yarn A and leave a long tail for sewing. Set aside for now.

Repeat rounds 1 to 6, 1 more time, for a total of 2 crochet bat ears. Then, continue to round 1 of your head.

Crochet Bat Head – Rounds 1 to 13:

With yarn A (medium purple), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 3 times, [1sc into next st, 3sc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (19).

Rnd 4: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 3 times, [1sc into each of next 2 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (26).

Rnd 5: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 3 times, [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (33).

Rnd 6: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (33).

Rnds 7 to 12 (6 rnds): repeat rnd 6 (33).

Rnd 13: sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 30 sts, 2sc into next st, join, ch 1 (33).

Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the instructions below for adding the eyes, blush, mouth, and ears before continuing to round 14 of your crochet bat head.

Adding Eyes:

Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through the center of the front of your crochet bat head.

The front of the head should be on the flattest side (between your 3sc increases in rounds 3 to 5), a quarter turn before your joining seam.

The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 10 and 11 and should sit 6 stitches apart.

Adding Blush:

Rotate your piece so that the beginning rounds face upwards and your last round faces downwards.

Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a blush line using pink embroidery floss or yarn next to each eye.

Each blush line should start 1 round down (between rounds 11 and 12) and 1 stitch outwards from where each eye was inserted, and span 1 stitch length outwards (away from the center of the face).

Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 1 stitch outwards from where you’ve inserted the eye.

Pull through, leaving some tail inside for tying later. Then, insert your needle back in, 1 more stitch outwards.

If using yarn, you may skip ahead to tying both ends together on the inside of your piece.

If using embroidery floss, pass your needle back out through the same space as you’ve last exited from and pull through. Reinsert your needle, again, 1 stitch outwards in the same place as before.

Repeat these last steps 3 more times, or until you are satisfied with the size of your blush. Then, gently tie both ends together on the inside of your piece.

Take extra care as you tie your ends not to pull the threads too tight! After finishing your knot, trim any excess length.

Adding Mouth:

The mouth should be embroidered between rounds 11 and 12 and be centered between the eyes. The mouth will be 2 stitches wide.

The fangs at both sides of the mouth should extend down to end between rounds 12 and 13, and will each be 1 round tall.

With black yarn and a needle, begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 2 stitches right from where you’ve inserted the left eye.

Pull through and leave some tail inside for tying later.

Then, insert your needle back in, 2 more stitch to the right, and pull through to create a horizontal line that is 2 stitches wide in the center of the face.

Remove your needle and tie both tails together on the inside of your piece. Trim any excess length after knotting.

Next, with white yarn and a needle, begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 2 stitches right from where you’ve inserted the left eye, in the same spot you began the mouth.

Pull through and leave some tail inside for tying later.

Then, insert your needle back in, 1 stitch downwards, and pull through to create a vertical line that is 1 round tall.

Next, insert your needle from inside to outside, 1 round up and 2 stitches to the right from where you’ve just inserted, in the same spot you ended the mouth.

Then, insert your needle back in, 1 stitch downwards, and pull through to create a second vertical line.

Remove your needle and tie both tails together on the inside of your piece. Trim any excess length after knotting.

Adding Ears:

Retrieve both ears that you’ve set aside earlier. Rotate each ear so that your first round faces upwards and the open end, or last round, faces downwards.

Flatten each ear so that the end tail leftover from fastening off is at one end of the flattened ear and the double crochet stitches are at the other end.

Using the tail leftover from fastening off, you will now be attaching both ears onto the top of the head, along the open edge that is the last round of each ear.

Optionally, you may first sew along the flattened bottom edge of each ear before attaching to the head, or you may choose to sew the layers together at the same time as attaching to the head. Choose whichever method works best for you!

The shorter side of each ear, or the side with your end tail, should face towards the center of the head.

Likewise, the longer side of each ear, or the side with your double crochets, should span outwards, away from the center of the head.

Align your first ear so that the shorter side of the flattened ear sits roughly above the first 3sc you worked in round 3, with the rest of the bottom edge of the ear spanning outwards, away from the center of the piece.

For best results, try giving your ear a slight curve as you sew, to give it a more natural concave ear shape.

However, for an easier option, you may sew it in a straight line outwards, instead.

Sew along the entire length of the bottom edge of the ear, then secure with a knot on the interior of your piece. Trim any excess length.

Repeat on the other side of your crochet bat head, with the second ear starting roughly over the second 3sc you worked in round 3 and spanning outwards.

Crochet Bat Head – Rounds 14 to 16:

Continue to the next round and begin stuffing as you go.

Rnd 14: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times, [1sc into each of next 3 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (26).

Rnd 15: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 3 times, [1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (19).

Rnd 16: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into next st] 3 times, [1sc into next st, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into next st] 2 times, join (12).

Fasten off yarn A and leave a short tail for tying. Set aside for now.

Crochet Bat Wings:

With yarn B (light purple), leave a short tail for weaving in and chain 5.

For best results, try working row 1 into the back bars, not the back loops, of each chain across.

Row 1: beginning in 2nd ch from hook, 1sc into next 3 sts, 2sc into next st, ch 1, turn (5).

Row 2: 2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts, ch 1, turn (6).

Row 3: 1sc into next 5 sts, 2sc into next st, ch 1, turn (7).

Row 4: 2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 6 sts, ch 1, turn (8).

Row 5: 1sc into next 7 sts, 2sc into next st, ch 1, turn (9).

Row 6: 2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 8 sts, ch 1, turn (10).

Row 7: sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 8 sts, ch 1, turn (9).

Row 8: 1sc into each of next 7 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts, ch 1, turn (8).

Row 9: sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 6 sts, ch 1, turn (7).

Row 10: 1sc into each of next 5 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts (6).

Fasten off yarn B and weave in all tails.

Repeat rows 1 to 10, 1 more time, for a total of 2 crochet bat wings.

Rotate each wing so that your last row faces downwards and each wing is flipped to be a mirrored reflection of the other.

Using step 1 of the diagram above as reference, we will now be adding two lines across the surface of each wing.

These lines can either be embroidered with a length of yarn A and a needle, or be created with surface crochet, using slip stitches that are worked through the surface of your bat wings.

The example crochet bat wings are made using the latter technique, but you may choose whichever works best for you!

To work the surface crochet method, leave a short tail for weaving in and begin with a slip knot of yarn A (medium purple) on your hook.

Rotate your wing so that it is right-side-up and insert your hook through the front of one of your bat wings, between the two single crochets of your very first increase in row 1 of the wing.

With the working tail of yarn A on the back side of your wing, yarn over and pull up a loop of yarn A, onto to the front side of your wing and through the loop on your hook to complete your first surface crochet slip stitch.

For the rest of your stitches, keep your active loop on the front side of your wing. Your working tail, however, will remain on the back side of your wing.

For each stitch, you will be punching through the surface of your crochet bat wing, yarning over on the back side of your wing, then pulling though the surface of the wing and the loop on your hook to complete each slip stitch.

The first line will be worked in a diagonal line, downwards and outwards towards the direction of your first stitch in row 1. Each of your next slip stitches should be worked 1 more stitch downwards and outwards from the previous slip stitch.

To fasten off, chain 1 and pull tight, then cut your yarn.

The second line will begin in the same space as your first line, then be worked straight downwards, ending in the top of the very last single crochet you worked in the wing.

Fasten off in the same way, then repeat both lines on the opposite wing so that they are mirroring the first wing.

Using step 2 in the diagram above as reference, you will now be working a row across half of the sides of each crochet bat wing.

One row will begin in the other side of your chain stitches from your foundation row, go across the diagonal edge of your single crochet increases, then down the sides of your last 4 rows.

The opposite wing will be worked into the same spaces, except in the opposite direction. Be sure to work each of the following rows on the wing that makes sense for your dominant hand.

For both wings, join yarn A (medium purple) by inserting your hook into first stitch of your next row. Pull up a loop of yarn A and chain 1.

Wing 1: 1sc into other side of each of next 4 ch, 2sc into next diagonal st, 1sc into each of next 4 diagonal sts, 2sc into next diagonal st, 1sc into side of each of next 4 rows (16).

Fasten off yarn A and weave in all tails.

Wing 2: 1sc into side of each of next 4 rows, 2sc into next diagonal st, 1sc into each of next 4 diagonal sts, 2sc into next diagonal st, 1sc into other side of each of next 4 ch (16).

Fasten off yarn A and weave in all tails.

Set aside both wings for now, and continue to the crochet bat legs.

Crochet Bat Legs – Rounds 1 to 5:

With yarn A (medium purple), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (8).

Rnd 3: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (10).

Rnd 4: [1sc into each of next 4 sts, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 5: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times, join (15).

This will be leg #1. Fasten off and leave a tail (~8 to 12 inches) for sewing. Set aside for now.

With yarn A (medium purple), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (8).

Rnd 3: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (10).

Rnd 4: [1sc into each of next 4 sts, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 5: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (15).

This will be leg #2. Do not fasten off, as you will be working directly off of leg #2 to join both legs together.

Joining Legs (Round 6):

Retrieve leg #1 that you’ve set aside earlier and leave it on standby. You will be working round 6 around part of both legs to join them.

Rnd 6: 1sc into each of next 12 sts of leg #2, sk last 3 sts of leg #2, 1sc into 1st st of leg #1, 1sc into each of next 11 sts of leg #1, sk last 3 sts of leg #1, sl st into 1st st of rnd to join, ch 1 (24).

Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the instructions below for sewing the legs together before continuing to round 7.

You will now see that both leg pieces are joined together, with the exception of 3 stitches of each on the inside of the piece.

Using the 8-12 inch tail left over from leg #1, sew this inside slit closed.

For best results, try sewing a total of 5 pairs of stitches together—the 3 pairs of stitches that were not worked into during round 6, as well as each pair of stitches on either side of this length (where the 1st and 24th stitches of round 6 were worked into and the 12th and 13th stitches were worked into).

Secure your sewing with a knot to the interior of the piece and trim any excess tail. Remove your stitch marker and continue to round 7 of the crochet bat body.

Crochet Bat Body – Rounds 7 to 12:

Rnd 7: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (24).

Rnd 8: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 6 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (21).

Rnd 9: [1sc into each of next 5 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (18).

Rnd 10: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (15).

Rnd 11: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 12: 1sc into each st around, join (12).

Fasten off yarn A and leave a long (~3 ft) tail for sewing. Do not stuff yet.

Follow the instructions below for attaching the wings onto the body before stuffing.

Attaching Wings:

Retrieve both crochet bat wings that you’ve set aside earlier.

Align each wing so that the bottom 6 single crochet in yarn A are placed vertically down the sides of the body, and the lines of embroidery or surface crochet on each wing are pointing outwards, away from the body.

With a length of yarn A (medium purple), sew the bottom 6 single crochet of each wing along either side of the body.

The example crochet bat has the top stitches of each wing aligned with the top round of the body. Each wing is separated by 4 stitches across the back of that round, then sewn straight down along the same column of stitches.

Secure your sewing with a knot, then weave in all tails. Repeat on the second wing, as well.

Attaching Head:

Retrieve the head set aside earlier and align it in your desired direction on top of the body.

With the long end tail leftover from fastening off of the body, sew around the entire circumference of the head and body, stitch by stitch, to connect both pieces together.

If you have trouble getting your needle into the crevice between the head and neck, try sewing very loosely, as shown above, leaving a large gap between the head and the body for you to more easily maneuver in.

Then, once you’ve completed sewing around the full circumference, you may go back and tighten each strand of your sewing individually. Just be careful to tighten the strands in the same sequence as you’ve sewn them!

Once your head and body are connected, secure your sewing with a knot to the end tail from the head, or to a nearby stitch, trim your tail, and weave in any excess length.

Conclusion | Free Crochet Bat Amigurumi

And with that, you’re done the free crochet Bat Pocket Pet pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out its two companion patterns in the Halloween Pocket Pets collection: the Spider Pocket Pet, and the Cat Pocket Pet (releasing here on October 25th)!

You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!

If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!

And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!

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