Crochet Grim Reaper | Free Pattern

Stalking from this free crochet grim reaper amigurumi pattern are all the spooky scenes of Halloween tales—the dark wings of a flock of ravens passing overhead, the screeching blur of a black cat as it crosses your path, and a small chuckle as you tell yourself it’s all just silly superstition… right?

With Halloween inching towards you like a specter in the night, how better to soothe your shaking hands than with this free crochet grim reaper amigurumi pattern!

So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Grim Reaper Pocket Pet, part 5 of 5 in the Halloween Pocket Pets collection!

Pattern Information | Free Crochet Grim Reaper Amigurumi

This free crochet grim reaper amigurumi pattern has a difficulty rating of advanced.

The finished dimensions are 5.25 inches (height) by 3.75 inches (width) by 4 inches (depth).*

You may also make your pieces larger or smaller by increasing or decreasing your yarn weight and/or hook size, respectively.

*Finished dimensions are calculated from a model using medium weight yarn, a size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook, the YU/YO method and the following gauge: 18 sc x 21 rows = 4 inches.

And don’t forget to add your project on Ravelry!

Supplies:

• Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
• Medium (4) weight yarn in 4 colors:
  • Yarn A – white (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Soft White)
  • Yarn B – black (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Black)
  • Yarn C – dark gray (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Charcoal)
  • Yarn D – silver (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Light Gray)
• 10 mm black safety eyes (x2)
• Black embroidery floss
• Black yarn (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Black)
• Polyester fiberfill
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Stitch markers
• Black pipe cleaner
• Wire cutters

Terminology:

This free crochet grim reaper amigurumi pattern uses English (US) terminology:

• st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
• ch = chain stitch
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
• sc3tog = single crochet 3 together (over the span of 3 stitches)
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• FLO = front loop only
• BLO = back loop only
• sk = skip

Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.

In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.

You can learn more about how to read Virkadia patterns on our Pattern Help FAQ page!

Special Stitch Instructions

Please review our special stitch instructions on our Stitch Tutorials FAQ before beginning, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.

You can also watch our amigurumi techniques video tutorial for all of our tips and tricks for improving your project!

This free crochet grim reaper amigurumi pattern uses the following special stitch tutorials:

• Single Crochet (YU/YO Method)
• Invisible Decrease
• Joining Rounds
• Changing Colors Mid-Round

This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.

Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.

Changing Colors Mid-Round:

This free crochet grim reaper amigurumi pattern uses a mid-round color changing technique, as seen below, to create the outline of the skull.

This color changing method begins in the stitch immediately before the stitch that you want to be a different color.

If the stitch before your color change is a single crochet, begin this stitch as normal by inserting into the next stitch, yarning under, and pulling through.

If the stitch before your color change is a slip stitch, insert your hook into the next stitch only.

Then, drop your current color and instead grab the color you want to change to. Yarn over this new color and pull through to complete your stitch.

After completing the round, secure the tails of your color changes by tying the end tail from the first color to the beginning tail of the second color together.

However, take care not to pull your stitch too tight as you tie your ends together.

Trim any excess length after knotting, then repeat on any remaining tails from other color changes.

Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Grim Reaper Amigurumi

This crochet grim reaper amigurumi pattern can be styled either with a removable skull head inside the hood, or with a hollow hood (no skull).

Before beginning, please make sure you are using a gauge that is compatible with this crochet grim reaper amigurumi design.

If you are styling your crochet grim reaper to have a hollow hood, with or without the removable skull head, you will want your hood to be rigid enough that it is able to stand up on its own.

If needed, you can adjust the rigidity of your crochet by either increasing your yarn thickness or decreasing your hook size.

This pattern uses medium (4) weight yarn, an H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook, and the gauge used for all examples throughout this tutorial is: 18 sc x 21 rows = 4 inches.

If you intend to style your grim reaper with a hollow hood only, you may ignore the skull instructions entirely and skip ahead to the instructions for the crochet grim reaper hood.

Otherwise, to create the removable skull, continue to the next section below.

Crochet Grim Reaper Skull – Rounds 1 to 15:

With yarn A (white), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 3 times, [1sc into next st, 3sc into next st, 1sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (19).

Rnd 4: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 3 times, [1sc into each of next 2 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (26).

Rnd 5: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 3 times, [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (33).

Rnd 6: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (33).

Rnds 7 to 12 (6 rnds): repeat rnd 6 (33).

The next three rounds will be using a unique slip stitch color change method in order to create a clean seam between the white and black colors of the skull.

If you have trouble with this method, you may instead make the easier, all-white version of the skull, as seen on the left in the image below.

To make the easier, all-white skull version, continue with yarn A only and replace rounds 13 to 15 with the following instructions:

Rnd 13-alt: sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 30 sts, 2sc into next st, join, ch 1 (33).

Rnd 14-alt: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times, [1sc into each of next 3 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (26).

Rnd 15-alt: skip rnd 15.

After skipping round 15, jump ahead to the instructions for adding the eyes, nose, and teeth. The rest of the pattern after round 15 remains the same for both skull versions.

For the more advanced black and white version of the skull, continue below as normal. Choose whichever version works best for you!

For the black and white version of the skull, fasten off yarn A and leave a short tail for tying.

Join yarn B (black) by inserting your hook into the back loop only of the last stitch of round 12. Yarn over and pull through a loop of yarn B.

Tie the tails of both yarn A and yarn B together on the interior of your piece to secure your ends, then trim any excess length.

When completing round 13, don’t forget to still work into the last stitch of the round, which is the same space as where you’ve just pulled up a loop of yarn B!

Rnd 13: sl st into BLO of each of next 21 sts and change to yarn A, 1sc into each of next 6 sts and change to yarn B, sl st into BLO of each of next 6 sts, do not join, ch 1 (33).

Fasten off yarn A (white) and secure all loose ends. You will be finishing the remainder of the skull in yarn B (black) only.

For round 14, be careful to work into the back loops only of each stitch around, no matter which type of stitch you are working into!

Rnd 14: in BLO of each st around, sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 19 sts, sl st into each of next 6 sts, 1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st, join, ch 1 (33).

Rnd 15: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, sc3tog over next 2 sts and BLO of 3rd st, 1sc into BLO of each of next 5 sts, 1sc into next st, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts, join, ch 1 (26).

Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the instructions below for adding the eyes, nose, and teeth before continuing to round 16 of your crochet grim reaper skull.

Adding Eyes:

Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through the center of the front of your crochet grim reaper skull.

The front of the head should be on the flattest side (between your 3sc increases in rounds 3 to 5), a quarter turn before your joining seam.

The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 10 and 11 and should sit 6 stitches apart.

Adding Nose:

The nose should be embroidered over round 11 and be centered between the eyes. The nose will be 1 round tall and 2 stitches wide.

With black yarn and a needle, begin by inserting your needle, from inside to outside, 3 stitches to the right from where you’ve inserted the left eye.

This space should be directly center between both eyes. Pull through and leave some tail inside for tying later.

Next, insert your needle back in, 1 round down and 1 stitch to the left, and pull through to create a diagonal line.

Then, insert your needle, back out through the very first space you exited in the center of the face, and reinsert again, this time 1 round down and 1 stitch to the right.

You should now have an upside-down V-shape in the center of the face. Repeat all steps one more time, or until you are satisfied with the size of the nose.

Then, remove your needle and tie both tails together on the inside of your piece. Trim any excess length after knotting.

Adding Teeth:

The teeth lines should be embroidered over round 13, in the lowest section of white stitches.

There should be a total of 7 vertical lines embroidered, each of which are 1 round tall.

With black embroidery floss and a needle, begin by inserting your needle, from inside to outside, 2 rounds directly below where you’ve inserted the left eye.

Pull through and leave some tail inside for tying later.

Next, insert your needle back in, 1 more round directly below where you’ve just exited, and pull through to create a vertical line.

Exit out through the face again, 1 round up and 1 stitch to the right, and reinsert once more, 1 round directly below where you’ve just exited.

Repeat the last paragraph 5 more times, for a total of 7 vertical lines across round 13.

For the black and white version of the skull, skip ahead to tying your ends together on the inside of your piece.

For the easier, all-white version of the skull, finish off your embroidered teeth by sewing a line across, between rounds 13 and 14, connecting the bottom points of all 7 vertical lines, as seen above.

For best results, sew six smaller lines, one between every two vertical lines, rather than just one single strand across all stitches.

Then, remove your needle and tie both tails together on the inside of your piece. Trim any excess length after knotting.

Crochet Grim Reaper Skull – Rounds 16 to 18:

Remove your stitch marker and continue to the next round. Begin stuffing as you go.

Rnd 16: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 3 times, [1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (19).

Rnd 17: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into next st] 3 times, [1sc into next st, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into next st] 2 times, join (12).

Rnd 18:[sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join (6).

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing closed.

Sewing Closed:

To sew the bottom hole closed, pass your needle, from front to back, beneath the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight.

Secure your sewing with a knot onto a nearby stitch, trim the tail, and then sew in any remaining length.

Crochet Grim Reaper Hood:

With yarn C (dark gray), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 3: 2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts, 2sc into next st, join, ch 1 (8).

Rnd 4: 2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 6 sts, 2sc into next st, join, ch 1 (10).

Rnd 5: 2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 8 sts, 2sc into next st, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 6: 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 10 sts, 3sc into next st, join, ch 1 (16).

Rnd 7: 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 14 sts, 3sc into next st, join, ch 1 (20).

Rnd 8: 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 18 sts, 3sc into next st, join, ch 1 (24).

Rnd 9: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 10: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 11: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 12 to 19 (8 rnds): repeat rnd 11 (36).

Rnd 20: 1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st, [1sc into each of next 4 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 3 times, [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 21: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 2 times, [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 3 times, 2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 5 sts, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 22: 1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st, [1sc into each of next 4 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 3 times, [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st] 2 times, do not join (36).

Rnd 23: sl st into each st around (36).

Fasten off yarn C and weave in tail.

Set aside your crochet grim reaper hood for now, and continue to the arms next.

Crochet Grim Reaper Arms:

With yarn A (white), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: 1sc into each st around, join (6).

Fasten off yarn A and leave a short tail for tying.

Join yarn C (dark gray) by inserting your hook into the first stitch of your next round. Yarn over and pull through a loop of yarn C, then chain 1.

Tie the tails of both yarn A and yarn C together on the interior of your piece to secure your ends, then trim any excess length.

Rnd 3: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 4: in BLO of each st around, [1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (9).

Rnd 5: sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 7 sts, join, ch 1 (8).

Rnd 6: 1sc into each of next 6 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts, join, ch 1 (7).

Rnd 7: sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 5 sts, join (6).

Fasten off yarn C. Do not stuff.

Next, rotate the arm so that the last round faces downwards and locate the round of front loops only, left over from round 3 of the arm.

We will now be working an extra round off of these loops, in order to add a layer of sleeve over top of the hands.

Rejoin yarn C (dark gray) by inserting your hook, from front to back, into the front loop only of the first stitch from round 3.

Leaving a short tail for tying, pull up a loop of yarn C and chain 1.

Rnd 1: 1sc into FLO of each stitch around, sl st into 1st st to join (12).

Fasten off and leave a short tail for tying.

Tie your beginning and end tails together on the inside of the sleeve to secure your ends, then weave in and remaining length.

Repeat rounds 1 to 7 of the arm, as well as the extra sleeve round, to create a second arm. Then, continue to the instructions for the crochet grim reaper legs below.

Crochet Grim Reaper Legs – Rounds 1 to 5:

With yarn A (white), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (8).

Rnd 3: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (10).

Rnd 4: [1sc into each of next 4 sts, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 5: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times, join (15).

This will be leg #1. Fasten off and leave a tail (~8 to 12 inches) for sewing. Set aside for now.

With yarn B (green), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (8).

Rnd 3: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (10).

Rnd 4: [1sc into each of next 4 sts, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 5: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (15).

This will be leg #2. Do not fasten off, as you will be working directly off of leg #2 to join both legs together.

Joining Legs (Round 6):

Retrieve leg #1 that you’ve set aside earlier and leave it on standby. You will be working round 6 around part of both legs to join them.

Rnd 6: 1sc into each of next 12 sts of leg #2, sk last 3 sts of leg #2, 1sc into 1st st of leg #1, 1sc into each of next 11 sts of leg #1, sk last 3 sts of leg #1, sl st into 1st st of rnd to join (24).

Fasten off yarn A. Then, follow the instructions below for sewing the legs together before continuing to the robe.

You will now see that both leg pieces are joined together, with the exception of 3 stitches of each on the inside of the piece.

Make sure that both top loops of each of these stitches are facing upwards. Then, using the 8-12 inch tail left over from leg #1, sew this inside slit closed.

For best results, try sewing a total of 5 pairs of stitches together—the 3 pairs of stitches that were not worked into during round 6, as well as each pair of stitches on either side of this length.

In other words, where the 1st and 24th stitches of round 6 were worked into and the 12th and 13th stitches were worked into should be sewn together, as well.

Secure your sewing with a knot to the interior of the piece and trim any excess tail.

Set aside for now. Then, continue to round 1 of the crochet grim reaper robe below.

Crochet Grim Reaper Robe:

With yarn C (dark gray), chain 30. Slip stitch into the first stitch to form a circle, then chain 1.

For best results, try working into the back bars, not the back loops, of each chain around for a cleaner bottom edge on your robe.

Rnd 1: 1sc into each st around, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 2: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 8 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (27).

Rnd 3: [1sc into each of next 7 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (24).

Retrieve the legs set aside earlier. During round 4, you will be working through both the current round of the robe and the last round of the legs simultaneously to connect them together.

Alternatively, if you have trouble with this method, you may instead work a normal round of single crochets into the front loops only of the robe (1sc into FLO of each st around, join, ch 1).

Afterwards, you may then sew the legs and robe together by using a long length of yarn C (dark gray), and sewing through both loops of each stitch of the legs and the back loops only of round 3 of the robe.

Choose whichever method works best for you!

Rnd 4: 1sc into each st around of both robe and legs together, join, ch 1 (24).

Rnd 5: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 6 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (21).

Rnd 6: [1sc into each of next 5 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (18).

Rnd 7: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (15).

Rnd 8: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (12).

Retrieve both arms set aside earlier and flatten the top round of each arm so that the stitches form 2 parallel lines of 3 stitches each.

During round 9, you will be working through both layers of the arm and the current round of the body simultaneously to connect the arms onto the body.

Similarly to the robe and legs, you may also opt to work a normal round of single crochet stitches (1sc into each st around, join).

If choosing this method, you may then the arms onto the body individually, using a length of yarn A, between rounds 11 and 12 on either side of the body.

Rnd 9: 1sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts of both arm and body together, 1sc into each of next 4 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts of both arm and body together, 1sc into next st, join (12).

Fasten off yarn C and leave a long (~3 ft) tail for sewing.

Then, continue to the instructions for attaching the hood below.

Attaching Hood:

Retrieve the hood set aside earlier and place it on top of the body so that the opening is facing forwards, and the joining seam is on the bottom.

With the long end tail left over from fastening off of the body, sew the top of the body onto the bottom of the hood to connect both pieces together.

For best results, try to maintain the circular shape of the top hole of the body as you are sewing it onto the hood.

The example crochet grim reaper has the body sewn over top of rounds 15 to 18 of the bottom of the hood.

If you have trouble getting your needle into the crevice between the hood and body, try sewing very loosely, as shown above, leaving a large gap between the hood and the body for you to more easily maneuver in.

Then, once you’ve completed sewing around the full circumference, you may go back and tighten each strand of your sewing individually. Just be careful to tighten the strands in the same sequence as you’ve sewn them!

Once your hood and body are connected, secure your sewing with a knot to a nearby stitch, trim your tail, and weave in any excess length.

If desired, you may now add the skull into the hood by inserting it into the opening and rotating it inside the hood so that the face is facing forward and center!

Crochet Grim Reaper Scythe:

With yarn D (silver) chain 8.

Work row 1 through the back bars, not the back loops, of each chain across.

Row 1: beginning in 2nd ch from hook, sl st into next st, 1sc into next st, 2sc into next st, 1hdc into next st, 2hdc into next st, 1dc into each of next 2 sts (9).

Fasten off yarn D and weave in both tails. This will be your scythe blade.

To add a handle onto our scythe blade, we will be using a black pipe cleaner.

Begin by folding your black pipe cleaner in half. Twist the the folded end of your pipe cleaner to create a small (~0.25 in) tip on your handle.

Next, thread both legs of your folded pipe cleaner through the last double crochet of your scythe’s blade.

One leg will be inserted, from top to bottom, through the front loop only of the top of the last double crochet, then from top to bottom through the front loop only of the chain stitch beneath.

Likewise, the second leg will be inserted, from top to bottom, through the back loop only of the top of the last double crochet, the back loop only of the chain stitch beneath.

Pull both legs of the pipe cleaner all of the way through, leaving only the twisted tip above the blade.

Then, beginning just below the blade, twist both legs together into one pole.

Keep twisting both legs of the pipe cleaner together until the scythe handle reaches your desired height, then use your wire cutters to trim any remaining length.

Conclusion | Free Crochet Grim Reaper Amigurumi

And with that, you’re done the free crochet Grim Reaper Pocket Pet pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out its four companion patterns in the Halloween Pocket Pets collection: the Bat Pocket Pet, the Spider Pocket Pet, the Cat Pocket Pet, and the Ghost Pocket Pet!

You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!

If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!

And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!

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