Carved into this free crochet pumpkin amigurumi pattern are all the warmly-spiced scenes of autumn evenings—lazy walks through a local pumpkin patch, fingers sticky with seedy strings as you carve out a jack-o-lantern, and the warm aroma of cinnamon wafting from the oven.
While the hearty harvest soups simmer on the stove, how better to pass the time than with this free crochet pumpkin amigurumi pattern!
So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Pumpkin Cutie, part one of three in the Autumn Cuties collection!
Pattern Information | Free Crochet Pumpkin Amigurumi
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Supplies:
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- Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 3 colors:
- Yarn A – green (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Medium Thyme)
- Yarn B – brown (example uses Craft Smart Value: Espresso)
- Yarn C – orange (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Carrot)
- 10mm black safety eyes (x2)
- Black embroidery floss
- Pink embroidery floss (example uses DMC 963 Light Dusty Rose) or pink yarn
- Polyester fiberfill
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Alternate Yarn Supplies:
Color Variation 2 (as seen on the left in cover photo):
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 3 colors:
- Yarn A – green (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Medium Thyme)
- Yarn B – brown (example uses Craft Smart Value: Espresso)
- Yarn C – yellow (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Gold)
Terminology:
This free crochet pumpkin pattern uses English (US) terminology:
- st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- sk = skip
- BLO = back loop only
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.
Special Stitch Instructions | Free Crochet Pumpkin Amigurumi
Please read through all special stitch instructions carefully before beginning your project, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.
This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.
Single Crochet:
This pattern uses a variation of the traditional single crochet stitch, sometimes referred to as the YU/YO (yarn under/yarn over) method.
Instead of yarning over before pulling through, this method utilizes a yarn under technique on the first pass of each stitch, as seen below.
Begin by inserting your hook into the next stitch, then yarn under (not over) as shown above. Pull through the stitch, then yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your single crochet.
Using the above technique produces a slightly tighter and stiffer fabric than traditional single crochet stitches. This method minimizes holes between stitches, improves shaping, and decreases stitch slanting.
This pattern will still work with the traditional technique of single crochet stitches, so choose what works best for you—just be wary that your project may result in having slight visual differences than those shown in examples if using the traditional method.
Invisible Decrease:
This pattern uses a variation of the single crochet decrease stitch, often called an invisible decrease. This method produces a tighter stitch that improves shaping and blends in more seamlessly with regular stitches.
Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch, then insert into the front loop only of the second stitch in the same way.
Yarn under (not over) as shown above and pull through both front loops. Yarn over as normal and pull through both loops on your hook to complete your invisible decrease.
Joining Rounds:
Unless otherwise stated, each round in this pattern is joined at the end with a slip stitch into the first stitch of the round, followed by one or more chain stitches.
For a cleaner seam, and to ensure that these stitches are not accidentally worked into later, tighten both the slip stitch and chain as shown below.
Hold your working loop firmly on your hook and pull up with your hook until your slip stitch is tight. Then, pull back on your working tail until your loop is back to fitting snugly around your hook.
Repeat these steps with the following one or more chain stitches before your next round, as well.
Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Pumpkin Amigurumi
Crochet Pumpkin Leaf:
With yarn A (green), chain 7.
Rnd 1: beginning in 3rd ch from hook, 3dc into next st, 1dc into next st, 1hdc into next st, 1sc into next st, sl st into next st, ch 1, working into other side of ch sts, sl st into next st, 1sc into next st, 1hdc into next st, 1dc into next st, 3dc into next st, sl st into 1st st to join (15).
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Weave in beginning tail, then set aside for now. Continue to round 1 of the crochet pumpkin.
Crochet Pumpkin – Rounds 1 to 9:
With yarn B (brown), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: 1sc into BLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 3: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 4: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 5: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 3 times, join (9).
Fasten off yarn B and leave a short tail for tying.
Join yarn C (orange) by inserting your hook into the first stitch of the next round. Pull up a loop of yarn C and chain 1.
Tie the tails of both yarn B and yarn C together on the interior of your piece to secure your ends.
Rnd 6: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 7: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 9 times, join, ch 1 (27).
Rnd 8: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 9 times, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 9: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 9 times, do not join (45).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the instructions for sewing on the leaf before continuing.
Crochet Pumpkin Leaf – Assembly:
Using the end tail leftover from fastening off of the leaf, sew through the side of the pumpkin stem between rounds 4 and 5. Then, pass the needle back out through an adjacent stitch of the stem.
Next, sew through the top of the last stitch of the leaf, then back into the stem again. Secure your sewing with a knot on the interior of your piece and trim any excess length.
Crochet Pumpkin – Rounds 10 to 27:
The next 18 rounds will be worked by alternating cinching rounds and regular rounds.
When working the cinching (even) rounds, keep your chain sequences to the back and allow your single crochet rounds to bend forwards towards you.
When working the regular (odd) rounds, pretend the previous cinching round does not exist. Work into the single crochets from your last regular round only.
Therefore, when you reach a slip stitch from the previous cinching round, try to work over (not into) the slip stitches as if they were not there. In other words, work your new stitch into the top of the single crochet from two rounds before, hiding the slip stitch inside your new stitch.
Do not work over your chain sequences. Rather, allow them to float on the inside of your work. These chains will create pseudo-columns on the inside of your piece that you can stuff later.
Rnd 10: [sl st into next st, ch 5, sk next 8 sts] 5 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 11: 1sc into each st from rnd 9 around, do not join (45).
Rnd 12: [sl st into next st, ch 5, sk next 8 sts] 5 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 13: 1sc into each st from rnd 11 around, do not join (45).
Rnd 14: [sl st into next st, ch 5, sk next 8 sts] 5 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 15: 1sc into each st from rnd 13 around, do not join (45).
Rnd 16: [sl st into next st, ch 5, sk next 8 sts] 5 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 17: 1sc into each st from rnd 15 around, do not join (45).
Rnd 18: [sl st into next st, ch 5, sk next 8 sts] 5 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 19: 1sc into each st from rnd 17 around, do not join (45).
Rnd 20: [sl st into next st, ch 5, sk next 8 sts] 5 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 21: 1sc into each st from rnd 19 around, do not join (45).
Rnd 22: [sl st into next st, ch 5, sk next 8 sts] 5 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 23: 1sc into each st from rnd 21 around, do not join (45).
Rnd 24: [sl st into next st, ch 5, sk next 8 sts] 5 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 25: 1sc into each st from rnd 23 around, do not join (45).
Rnd 26: [sl st into next st, ch 5, sk next 8 sts] 5 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 27: 1sc into each st from rnd 25 around, join, ch 1 (45).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the instructions for adding the eyes, mouth, and blush before continuing.
Do your best when adding the facial features to avoid working over any of your chain sequences on the interior of your piece.
Adding Eyes:
Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through your piece (on a different side than your joining seam) so that one of the cinched grooves is centered between both eyes.
The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 17 and 19* and should sit 6 stitches apart, from the center of one eye to the center of the other.
*Be sure when counting your rounds not to forget your cinching rounds, as they can’t be seen from the front!
Adding Mouth:
Rotate your piece so that the beginning rounds face upwards and your last round faces downwards.
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a mouth using black embroidery floss.
The mouth should be embroidered over top of round 21* and be centered between the eyes in the cinched groove. The mouth will be 2 stitches wide and 1 round tall.
*Be sure when counting your rounds not to forget your cinching rounds, as they can’t be seen from the front!
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 2 stitches to the right from where you’ve inserted the left eye. Pull through and leave some tail for tying later.
Then, insert your needle again, 2 stitches to the right, and out again, 1 round down and 1 stitch to the left from where you’ve just inserted, and pull through.
Pass your needle up and underneath the horizontal strand you’ve just created and pull through. Then, insert your needle back into the same space as you’ve last exited from.
Pull your thread through and tug it down slightly until it forms a V-shape. Gently tie both ends together inside your piece.
Take extra care as you tie your ends not to pull the threads too tight! After finishing your knot, trim any excess length.
Adding Blush:
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a blush line using pink embroidery floss or yarn next to each eye.
Each blush line should start 1 round down (between rounds 19 and 21*) and 1 stitch outwards from where each eye was inserted, and span 1 stitch length outwards (away from the center of the face).
*Be sure when counting your rounds not to forget your cinching rounds, as they can’t be seen from the front!
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 1 stitch outwards from where you’ve inserted the eye.
Pull through, leaving some tail inside for tying later. Then, insert your needle back in, 1 more stitch outwards.
If using yarn, you may skip ahead to tying both ends together on the inside of your piece.
If using embroidery floss, pass your needle back out through the same space as you’ve last exited from and pull through. Reinsert your needle, again, 1 stitch outwards in the same place as before.
Repeat these last steps 3 more times, or until you are satisfied with the size of your blush. Then, gently tie both ends together on the inside of your piece.
Take extra care as you tie your ends not to pull the threads too tight! After finishing your knot, trim any excess length.
Crochet Pumpkin – Rounds 28 to 31:
Continue to the next round and begin stuffing as you go.
In addition to stuffing the center of the piece, lightly stuff each of the 5 columns created on the interior (between the exterior and the floating chain sequences), as well.
Rnd 28: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 9 times, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 29: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 9 times, join, ch 1 (27).
Rnd 30: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into next st] 9 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 31: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 9 times, join (9).
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing closed.
Sewing Closed:
To sew the bottom hole closed, pass the needle, from front to back, through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight. Secure your sewing with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.
Conclusion | Free Crochet Pumpkin Amigurumi
And with that, you’re done the free crochet Pumpkin Cutie pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out its two companion patterns in the Autumn Cuties collection: the Mushroom Cutie and the Acorn Cutie!
You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!
If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!
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