Crochet Hamburger | Free Crochet Pattern

Stacked into this free crochet hamburger amigurumi pattern are all the flavorful fascinations of summer barbecues—the colorful collage of a cookout’s elaborate spread of fixins, the smoky smell of charcoal smoldering in a nearby grill, and the sound of juicy patties sizzling over the hot coals.

While you patiently wait for your food to finishing grilling, there’s no better way to soak in the summer vibes than with this free crochet hamburger amigurumi pattern!

So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the Hamburger Cutie, part 2 of 2 in the Food Cuties collection!

Pattern Information | Free Crochet Hamburger Amigurumi

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This free crochet hamburger amigurumi pattern has a difficulty rating of intermediate.

The finished dimensions are 4.5 inches (height) by 4.25 inches (width) by 4.25 inches (depth) when all of the fixins are included, or 3 inches (height) by 3.75 inches (width) by 3.75 inches (depth) with no fixins added.*

You may also make your pieces larger or smaller by increasing or decreasing your yarn weight and/or hook size, respectively.

*Finished dimensions are calculated from a model using medium weight yarn, a size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook, the YU/YO method and the following gauge: 18 sc x 21 rows = 4 inches.

Supplies:

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• Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
• Medium (4) weight yarn in 4 colors (for hamburger/bun):
  • Yarn A – tan (example uses Big Twist Value: Camel)
  • Yarn B – white (Red Heart Super Saver: Aran)
  • Yarn C – beige (Red Heart Super Saver: Buff)
  • Yarn D – brown (Loops & Threads Soft Classic: Mocha)
• (Optional) medium (4) weight yarn in 6 colors (for fixins):
  • Yarn E (cheese/tomato) – yellow (Red Heart Super Saver: Saffron)
  • Yarn F (lettuce) – green (Red Heart Super Saver: Spring Green)
  • Yarn G (tomato) – pink/orange (Caron One Pound: Living Coral)
  • Yarn H (tomato) – red (Red Heart Super Saver: Cherry Red)
  • Yarn I (onion) – white (Red Heart Super Saver: Soft White)
  • Yarn J (onion) – purple (Big Twist Value: Plum)
• 10 mm black safety eyes (x2)
• Black embroidery floss
• Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn (Red Heart Super Saver: Perfect Pink)
• Polyester fiberfill
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Stitch markers

Alternate Yarn Supplies:

Color Variation 2 (as seen in the photo below):

The chunky example of this pattern measures 6.5 inches (height) by 4.5 inches (width) by 4.5 inches (depth) when all of the fixins are included (or 4 in x 4.25 in x 4.25 in with no fixins added) using the following gauge: 16 sc x 15 rows = 4 inches.

All supplies remain the same (including hook size), except for the following replacements:

• Super Bulky (6) weight yarn (example uses Premier Parfait Chunky yarn) in 4 colors (for hamburger/bun):
  • Yarn A – tan (Parfait Chunky: Almond Butter)
  • Yarn B – white (Parfait Chunky: Cream)
  • Yarn C – beige (Parfait Chunky: Cream)
  • Yarn D – brown (Parfait Chunky: Chocolate)
• (Optional) Super Bulky (6) weight yarn in 6 colors (for fixins):
  • Yarn E (cheese/tomato) – yellow (Parfait Chunky: Summer Squash)
  • Yarn F (lettuce) – green (Parfait Chunky: Seaweed Salad)
  • Yarn G (tomato) – pink/orange (Parfait Chunky: Coral)
  • Yarn H (tomato) – red (Parfait Chunky: Poppy)
  • Yarn I (onion) – white (Parfait Chunky: White)
  • Yarn J (onion) – purple (Parfait Chunky: Orchid)
• 14 mm black safety eyes (x2)
• Pink yarn (Parfait Chunky: Pink Lemonade)
• Black embroidery floss (doubled)

Terminology:

This free crochet hamburger amigurumi pattern uses English (US) terminology:

• st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
• ch = chain stitch
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
• pc = (small) popcorn stitch*
• SPsc = spike stitch*
• BLO = back loop only

Also, please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.

You can learn more about how to read Virkadia patterns on our Pattern Help FAQ page!

*Please read through the special instructions for these stitches before beginning, as they may be unique for this free crochet hamburger amigurumi pattern.

Special Stitch Instructions:

Please review our special stitch instructions on our Stitch Tutorials FAQ page before beginning, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.

You can also watch our amigurumi techniques video tutorial for all of our tips and tricks for improving your project!

This free crochet hamburger amigurumi pattern uses the following special stitch tutorials:

• Single Crochet (YU/YO Method)
• Invisible Decrease
• Joining Rounds
• Small Popcorn Stitch
• Spike Stitch

This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.

Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.

Small Popcorn Stitch:

This free crochet hamburger amigurumi pattern uses a variation of the popcorn stitch that utilizes only 3 double crochet stitches, instead of the more common 5 double crochet, as seen below.

Begin by working 3 double crochet into the next stitch. Then, pull up your working loop (large enough that your last stitch will not be accidentally pulled undone) and remove your hook.

Next, insert your hook, from front to back, through the top of the first double crochet you’ve made in the 3 double crochet sequence. Now, pull your working loop from the third double crochet through the top of the first double crochet.

Lastly, pull your working tail so that your working loop fits back snugly around your hook and continue to your next stitch.

Spike Stitch:

The difference between a single crochet and a spike stitch is simply where the stitch is worked into. Instead of working into the next stitch of your current round, a spike stitch is worked one or more rows directly beneath your next stitch, as seen in the example below.

Locate your next stitch, but instead of working into the top of your current row, insert your hook one or more rows down from where you would normally insert (be sure to refer to the actual pattern directions for how many rows). Yarn over and pull through.

Pull your new loop up to the height of your current row. Then, finish your single crochet as normal by yarning over and pulling through both loops to complete.

For this free crochet hamburger amigurumi pattern specifically, each single crochet spike stitch will be worked 2 rounds beneath the current round, as seen below.

This spike stitch is worked the same as the example above, with the exception that it will be worked 1 more round lower, or 2 rounds total, beneath your next stitch.

Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet Hamburger Amigurumi

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Crochet Hamburger Bun Top:

Rounds 1 to 13:

With yarn A (tan), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).

Rnd 4: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).

Rnd 5: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 6: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 7: [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (42).

Rnd 8: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 13 sts] 3 times, join, ch 1 (45).

Rnd 9: [1sc into each of next 14 sts, 2sc into next st] 3 times, join, ch 1 (48).

Rnd 10: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (48).

Rnd 11: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (48).

Rnd 12: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (48).

Rnd 13: 1sc into each st around, join (48).

Fasten off and leave a short tail for tying.

Follow the instructions for adding the seeds, eyes, mouth, and blushing before continuing to round 14 of the crochet hamburger bun top.

Adding Sesame Seeds:

To embellish your crochet hamburger bun top with sesame seeds, begin by sewing a long length (~3 ft) of yarn B (white), from inside to outside, through the hole between any 4 stitches on the top of your bun.

Be sure to leave some tail on the inside for tying later. Then, reinsert your needle 1 stitch over in any direction (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally), and pull through.

Choose another hole between any 4 stitches and pass your yarn, from inside to outside, through the surface of your bun. Again, reinsert your needle 1 stitch over in any direction and pull through.

For best results, try changing the direction of each new sesame seed so that they mimic the randomness of real seeds!

Repeat these steps around the entire circumference of the top of your bun until you have as many sesame seeds as you desire.

However, take extra care not to pull your yarn on the inside of your bun too tight as you embroider each seed.

Avoid pulling the yarn taut across the inside of your bun, as you will need space to accommodate your stuffing, later.

You can check at any point if your embroidery is too tight by flipping your bun entirely inside-out.

If the yarn does not stretch enough to be able to be turned inside-out without puckering or folding, then the yarn is pulled too tight and won’t be able to be stuffed properly.

Once you’ve embroidered all of the sesame seeds to your liking, and ensured your sewing is not too tight, tie the beginning and end tails of your yarn together on the inside of your piece and cut any excess length.

Then, continue to the instructions for adding the eyes, mouth, and blush before continuing to round 14 of the crochet hamburger bun top.

Adding Eyes:

Rotate your piece so that the beginning rounds face upwards and your last round faces downwards.

Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through the side of your bun (on the opposite side from your joining seam).

The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 10 and 11, or between the 3rd and 4th rounds up from your bottom edge, and should sit 6 stitches apart, from the center of one eye to the center of the other.

Adding Mouth:

Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a mouth using black embroidery floss.

The mouth should be embroidered over top of round 12 and be centered between the eyes. The mouth will be 2 stitches wide and 1 round tall.

Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 2 stitches to the right from where you've inserted the left eye. Pull through and leave some tail for tying later.

Then, insert your needle again, 2 stitches to the right, and out again, 1 round down and 1 stitch to the left from where you've just inserted, and pull through.

Pass your needle up and underneath the horizontal strand you’ve just created and pull through. Then, insert your needle back into the same space as you've last exited from.

Pull your thread through and tug it down slightly until it forms a V-shape. Gently tie both ends together inside your piece.

Take extra care as you tie your ends not to pull the threads too tight! After finishing your knot, trim any excess length.

Adding Blush:

Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a blush line using pink embroidery floss or yarn next to each eye.

Each blush line should start 1 round down (between rounds 11 and 12) and 1 stitch outwards from where each eye was inserted, and span 1 stitch length outwards (away from the center of the face).

Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 1 stitch outwards from where you’ve inserted the eye.

Pull through, leaving some tail inside for tying later. Then, insert your needle back in, 1 more stitch outwards.

If using yarn, you may skip ahead to tying both ends together on the inside of your piece.

If using embroidery floss, pass your needle back out through the same space as you’ve last exited from and pull through. Reinsert your needle, again, 1 stitch outwards in the same place as before.

Repeat these last steps 3 more times, or until you are satisfied with the size of your blush. Then, gently tie both ends together on the inside of your piece.

Take extra care as you tie your ends not to pull the threads too tight! After finishing your knot, trim any excess length.

Rounds 14 to 20:

Continue to the next round and begin stuffing as you go. However, take care not to overstuff your piece!

Join yarn C (beige) by inserting your hook into the back loop only of the first stitch from round 13. Pull up a loop of yarn C and chain 1.

Tie the tails of both yarn A and yarn C together on the interior of your piece to secure your ends.

Rnd 14: in BLO of each st around, [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 6 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (42).

Rnd 15: [1sc into each of next 5 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 16: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 17: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).

Rnd 18: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).

Rnd 19: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 20: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join (6).

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing closed.

Sewing Closed:

To sew the bottom hole closed, pass the needle, from front to back, through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight.

Secure your sewing with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.

Set your crochet hamburger bun top aside for now and continue to the hamburger bun bottom.

Crochet Hamburger Bun Bottom:

Rounds 1 to 18:

With yarn A (tan), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).

Rnd 4: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).

Rnd 5: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 6: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 7: [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (42).

Rnd 8: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 6 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (48).

Rnd 9: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (48).

Rnd 10: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (48).

Rnd 11: 1sc into each st around, join (48).

Fasten off yarn A and leave a short tail for tying.

Join yarn C (beige) by inserting your hook into the back loop only of the first stitch from round 11. Pull up a loop of yarn C and chain 1.

Tie the tails of both yarn A and yarn C together on the interior of your piece to secure your ends.

Rnd 12: in BLO of each st around, [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 6 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (42).

Rnd 13: [1sc into each of next 5 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 14: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 15: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).

Rnd 16: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).

Rnd 17: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 18: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join (6).

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing closed.

Sewing Closed:

To sew the bottom hole closed, pass the needle, from front to back, through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight.

Secure your sewing with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.

Set your crochet hamburger bun bottom aside for now and continue to the hamburger patty.

Crochet Hamburger Patty:

Rounds 1 to 14:

With yarn D (brown), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).

Rnd 4: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).

Rnd 5: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 6: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 7: [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (42).

Rnd 8: [1sc into next st, 1pc into next st] 21 times, join, ch 1 (42).

Rnd 9: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 10: [1sc into each of next 4 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 11: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).

Rnd 12: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).

Rnd 13: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 14: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join (6).

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing closed.

Sewing Closed:

To sew the bottom hole closed, pass the needle, from front to back, through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight.

Secure your sewing with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.

Set your hamburger patty aside for now. Choose from any of the four sections below—cheese, lettuce, tomato, or onion—or mix-and-match several pieces together to customize your crochet hamburger with your favorite fixins!

Crochet Cheese Slice:

With yarn E (yellow), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 3sc into next st, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (20).

Rnd 4: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (28).

Rnd 5: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 6: [1sc into each of next 4 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (44).

Rnd 7: [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (52).

Rnd 8: [1sc into each of next 6 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 6 sts] 4 times, join (60).

Fasten off and weave in tail.

Crochet Lettuce:

With yarn F (green), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).

Rnd 4: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).

Rnd 5: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 6: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 7: [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (42).

Rnd 8: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (84).

Rnd 9: 1sc into each st around, join (84).

Fasten off and weave in tail.

Crochet Tomato Slice:

This crochet hamburger tomato slice will be worked in two separate layers that are joined together at the end around the outside edges.

Do not worry about your knots showing on the back side of your crochet slice, as these will be hidden on the inside of your tomato once both layers are joined together.

Rounds 1 to 7:

With yarn G (pink/orange), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join (12).

Fasten off yarn G and leave a short tail for tying.

Join yarn H (red) by inserting your hook into the first stitch from round 2. Pull up a loop of yarn H and chain 1.

Tie the tails of both yarn G and yarn H together on the back of your piece to secure your ends.

Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).

Rnd 4: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join (24).

Fasten off yarn H and leave a short tail for tying.

Join yarn G (pink/orange) by inserting your hook into the first stitch from round 4. Pull up a loop of yarn G and chain 1.

Tie the tails of both yarn G and yarn H together on the back of your piece to secure your ends.

The next round uses spike stitches to depict the unique internal structure of a tomato slice, each of which are worked 2 rounds directly below the next stitch of your current round.

Each spike stitch should visually connect your current round of yarn G with your previous round of the same color, as seen above.

Rnd 5: [1sc into next st, 1SPsc into st 2 rnds below next st, 1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 6: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join (36).

Fasten off yarn G and leave a short tail for tying.

Join yarn H (red) by inserting your hook into the first stitch from round 6. Pull up a loop of yarn H and chain 1.

Tie the tails of both yarn G and yarn H together on the back of your piece to secure your ends.

Rnd 7: [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times (42).

If this is your first tomato slice layer, join round 7 with a slip stitch into the first stitch of the round and fasten off.

If this is your second tomato slice layer, do not join and do not fasten off. Secure your working loop with a stitch marker.

Then, for both layers, continue to the instructions for adding seeds below.

Adding Tomato Seeds:

To embellish your crochet hamburger tomato slice with seeds, we will be adding 2 seeds inside each gap between spike stitches, embroidering over top of round 4.

Begin by sewing a long length of yarn E (yellow), from back to front, between rounds 3 and 4. You will be sewing through the bottom space between the 1st and 2nd stitches (of the total 3 stitches) visible in round 4 between the spike stitches.

Leave some tail on the back side of the slice for tying later.

Then, reinsert your needle 1 stitch directly above where you’ve just exited from, between rounds 4 and 5, and pull through.

Use the same method to add a 2nd seed, 1 stitch over, between the 2nd and 3rd stitches visible in round 4 between the spike stitches.

Repeat these steps around the circumference of your tomato, adding 2 seeds to each gap between the spike stitches, for a total of 12 seeds around.

Then, tie the beginning and end tails of your yarn together on the back side of your piece to secure your embroidery and cut any excess length.

After completing your first tomato slice layer, set it aside for now. Repeat rounds 1 to 7 to create a second tomato slice layer.

Embroider seeds onto your second slice layer, as well, then continue ahead to the instructions for joining together below.

Joining Together:

Remove your stitch marker from the second tomato slice layer and reinsert your hook. Retrieve your first tomato slice layer that you’ve set aside earlier.

Align both layers together so that the back side of each slice is facing the inside and the front sides are facing outwards.

Working through both layers simultaneously, slip stitch into each matching pair of stitches around, as shown above, to join your tomato slice layers together.

At the end of your round, fasten off and weave in any tails.

Crochet Onion Slice:

This crochet hamburger onion slice will be worked in two separate layers that are joined together at the end around the outer edges.

Do not worry about your knots and slip stitches showing on the back side of your crochet slice, as these will be hidden on the inside of your onion once both layers are joined together.

Rounds 1 to 8:

With yarn I (white), make a magic ring (or ch 2, work rnd 1 into 2nd ch from hook).

Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).

Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).

Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).

Rnd 4: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).

Rnd 5: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).

Rnd 6: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).

Rnd 7: [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join (42).

Fasten off yarn I and leave a short tail for tying.

Join yarn J (purple) by inserting your hook into the back loop only of the last stitch from round 7 and pulling up a loop of yarn J.

Tie the tails of both yarn I and yarn J together on the back of your piece to secure your ends.

Rnd 8: sl st into BLO of each st around, join (42).

If this is your first onion slice layer, fasten off and leave a short tail for tying.

If this is your second onion slice layer, fasten off and leave a larger tail, long enough to sew around the entire outer circumference of your onion slice.

Then, for both layers, continue to the instructions for adding rings to your onion slice.

Adding Rings:

To add the ring details to the surface of your onion slice, you will be working surface crochet slip stitches between every 2 rounds of your onion slice.

The slip stitches will be worked with the ‘wrong side’ facing you, so that the back side of your slip stitches are visible on the front of the onion slice.

When adding your rings, be sure not to work your slip stitches too tight! Take care to work each slip stitch loosely, or try sizing up your hook size, if needed.

Alternatively, if you find this method difficult, you may also simply embroider your rings onto your onion slice using a long length of yarn J (purple).

Begin by inserting your hook from back to front, or wrong side to right side, between any 2 stitches in the seam between rounds 1 and 2 of your onion slice layer.

Pull up a loop of yarn J (purple), leaving a short beginning tail for tying on the front side of your onion slice. Your working tail will also remain on this side of your onion slice as you work.

With the wrong side of your onion slice facing you, insert your hook into the next space between rounds 1 and 2.

Yarn over and pull through both the onion slice and the loop on your hook to complete your first surface crochet slip stitch.

Continue slip stitching through each space between rounds 1 and 2, around the entire circumference of your onion, until you reach the beginning of your round.

Then, fasten off and pull your end tail through your last slip stitch and onto the back side of your onion slice. Thread your beginning tail to the back side, as well.

Finish your ring by tying both tails together on the back side of your onion slice, then cut any excess length.

Repeat this method 5 more times, between each of the first 7 rounds of your crochet hamburger onion slice, for a total of 6 rings.

If this is your first layer, set your onion slice aside for now. Repeat rounds 1 to 8 to create a second onion slice layer, then continue ahead to the instructions for sewing both layers together.

Sewing Together:

Retrieve both onion slice layers and align them together so that the wrong sides of each slice are touching and the right sides are facing outwards.

With the long end tail left over from fastening off of your second slice, sew through the back loops only of round 8 of both layers simultaneously to join them together.

Finish your onion slice by securing your sewing with a knot to the end tail from your first layer, or to a nearby stitch, and weaving in any remaining length.

Conclusion | Free Crochet Hamburger Amigurumi

And with that, you’re done the free crochet Hamburger Cutie pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out its companion pattern in the Food Cuties collection: the Hot Dog Cutie!

You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!

If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!

And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!

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