Roasted into this free crochet s’more amigurumi pattern are all the nostalgic nights of summers past—laughter carrying across a campfire, the hurried blowing when your marshmallow goes up in flame, and the warm dripping of melted chocolate escaping down your fingers.
The hot days of adventure and exploration are eager to give way to the cool coziness of autumn, but there’s time yet for one last taste of summer with this free crochet s’more amigurumi pattern!
So, without further ado, here is the pattern for the S’more Cutie, part two of two in the Camp Cuties collection!
Pattern Information | Free Crochet S'more Amigurumi
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This free crochet s’more amigurumi pattern has a difficulty rating of intermediate.
The finished dimensions are 2.5 inches (height) by 3 inches (width) by 3 inches (depth).*
You may also make your pieces larger or smaller by increasing or decreasing your yarn weight and/or hook size, respectively.
*Finished dimensions are calculated from a model using medium weight yarn, a size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook, the YU/YO method and the following gauge: 18 sc x 21 rows = 4 inches.
Supplies:
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- Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
- Medium (4) weight yarn in 3 colors:
- Yarn A - white (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Soft White)
- Yarn B - brown (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Coffee)
- Yarn C - beige (example uses Big Twist Value: Camel)
- 10 mm black safety eyes (x2)
- Black embroidery floss
- Pink embroidery floss (example uses DMC 963 Light Dusty Rose) or pink yarn
- Polyester fiberfill
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Alternate Yarn Supplies:
Color Variation 2 (as seen in the photo below):
The chunky version of this pattern measures 3.75 inches (height) by 3.5 inches (width) by 3.5 inches (depth) using the following gauge: 16 sc x 15 rows = 4 inches.
All supplies remain the same, except for the following replacements:
- Super Bulky (6) weight yarn in 3 colors:
- Yarn A - white (example uses Premier Parfait Chunky: Cream)
- Yarn B - brown (example uses Premier Parfait Chunky: Chocolate)
- Yarn C - beige (example uses Premier Parfait Chunky: Almond Butter)
- 14mm black safety eyes (x2)
- Pink yarn (example uses Premier Parfait Chunky: Pink Lemonade)
- Black embroidery floss (doubled)
Terminology:
This free crochet s'more pattern uses English (US) terminology:
- st (sts) = stitch (stitches)
- ch = chain stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
- sc3tog = single crochet 3 together (over the span of 3 stitches)
- BLO = back loop only
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
In other words, 1sc = one single crochet, whereas 2sc = two single crochet worked into one stitch, also known as an increase.
You can learn more about how to read Virkadia patterns on our Pattern Help FAQ page!
Special Stitch Instructions:
Please review our special stitch instructions on our Stitch Tutorials FAQ before beginning, as some techniques may be unique to this pattern.
You can also watch our amigurumi techniques video tutorial for all of our tips and tricks for improving your project!
This free crochet s'more amigurumi pattern uses the following special stitch tutorials:
- Single Crochet (YU/YO Method)
- Invisible Decrease
- Joining Rounds
This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.
Pattern Instructions | Free Crochet S'more Amigurumi
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Crochet S'more Marshmallow - Rounds 1 to 12:
With yarn A (white), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form a ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 4: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 5: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 6: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 7-12 (6 rnds): repeat rnd 6 (30).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the instructions below for adding the eyes, mouth, and blush before continuing.
Adding Eyes:
Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through the front of your piece (on the opposite side from your joining seam).
The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 8 and 9 and should sit 6 stitches apart.
Adding Mouth:
Rotate your piece so that the beginning rounds face upwards and your last round faces downwards.
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a mouth using black embroidery floss.
The mouth should be embroidered over top of round 10 and be centered between the eyes. The mouth will be 2 stitches wide and 1 round tall.
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 2 stitches to the right from where you've inserted the left eye. Pull through and leave some tail for tying later.
Then, insert your needle again, 2 stitches to the right, and out again, 1 round down and 1 stitch to the left from where you've just inserted, and pull through.
Pass your needle up and underneath the horizontal strand you’ve just created and pull through. Then, insert your needle back into the same space as you've last exited from.
Pull your thread through and tug it down slightly until it forms a V-shape. Gently tie both ends together inside your piece, but take extra care not to pull the threads too tight!
Adding Blush:
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a blush line using pink embroidery floss or yarn next to each eye.
Each blush line should start 1 round down (between rounds 9 and 10) and 1 stitch outwards from where each eye was inserted, and span 1 stitch length outwards (away from the center of the face).
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 1 stitch outwards from where you’ve inserted the eye.
Pull through, leaving some tail inside for tying later. Then, insert your needle back in, 1 more stitch outwards.
If using yarn, you may skip ahead to tying both ends together on the inside of your piece.
If using embroidery floss, pass your needle back out through the same space as you’ve last exited from and pull through. Reinsert your needle, again, 1 stitch outwards in the same place as before.
Repeat these last steps 3 more times, or until you are satisfied with the size of your blush. Then, gently tie both ends together on the inside of your piece, taking extra care not to pull the threads too tight!
Crochet S'more Marshmallow - Rounds 13 to 16:
Continue to the next round and begin stuffing as you go.
Rnd 13: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 14: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 15: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 16: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join (6).
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing closed.
Sewing Closed:
To sew the bottom hole closed, pass the needle, from front to back, through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight. Secure your sewing with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.
Set aside for now and continue to the chocolate piece below.
Crochet S'more Chocolate:
With yarn B (brown), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form a ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 3sc into next st, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (20).
Rnd 4: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (28).
Rnd 5: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 6: [1sc into each of next 4 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (44).
Rnd 7: 1sc into BLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (44).
Rnd 8: in BLO of each st around, [1sc into each of next 4 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 9: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (28).
Rnd 10: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (20).
Rnd 11: [1sc into next st, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 12: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join (6).
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing closed.
To sew closed, pass the needle, from front to back, through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight. Secure your sewing with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.
Set aside for now and continue to the graham cracker below.
Crochet S'more Graham Cracker:
With yarn C (beige), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form a ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, 3sc into next st, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (20).
Rnd 4: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (28).
Rnd 5: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 6: [1sc into each of next 4 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (44).
Rnd 7: [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (52).
Rnd 8: 1sc into BLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (52).
Rnd 9: in BLO of each st around, [1sc into each of next 5 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (44).
Rnd 10: [1sc into each of next 4 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 11: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 3 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (28).
Rnd 12: [1sc into each of next 2 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 4 times, join, ch 1 (20).
Rnd 13: [1sc into next st, sc3tog over next 3 sts, 1sc into next st] 4 times, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 14: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join (6).
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing closed.
To sew closed, pass the needle, from front to back, through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight. Secure your sewing with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.
Set aside and repeat all rounds to make a second graham cracker before continuing.
Crochet S’more Assembly (Optional):
At this point, you can choose to leave all of the pieces separate—creating an interactive piece that you can stack and unstack—or sew them together for a more permanent display.
To sew them together, stack all 4 pieces into a s’more formation (from bottom to top: graham cracker, chocolate, marshmallow, graham cracker).
Once you have them centered and rotated to your preference, sew a length of yarn C (beige) through all 4 pieces from bottom to top.
Then, reinsert the needle into an adjacent stitch and pass the yarn back down through all 4 pieces again.
Knot the ends together and sew in tails. If desired, you may repeat this method in other spots for more stability.
Conclusion | Free Crochet S'more Amigurumi
And with that, you’re done the free crochet S'more Cutie pattern! If you enjoyed this pattern, be sure to check out its companion pattern in the Camp Cuties collection: the Campfire Cutie!
You can also explore the Cutie Collections and the Pocket Pets archives for more original and free amigurumi patterns, or our Home Decor Patterns for other homemade household goodies!
If you’re looking to cozy up with a longer project, check out our Clothing Patterns, or assemble your own designs from one of our Granny Square Patterns!
And don’t forget to browse our downloadable, ad-free patterns in our Etsy store!
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Hey hey, I'm Joey Diehl!
I am the fiber artist behind Virkadia! I have a BFA in Fibers & Material Studies and have been crocheting for over 20 years. I have designed, photographed, and written dozens of original crochet patterns that I am honored to have been shared to hundreds of thousands of readers.
Cassandra Rudolph says
Hi I’m having a problem with a marshmallow smore pattern .. the top part the gram it says 1sc , 3sc into the next equals 20sc
I am lost !
It is 3sc into one ? Or next next three separate?
Can u email me the answer please
Virkadia says
Yes, it is 3 single crochet into 1 stitch!
This pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
So in this case, “[1sc into next st, 3sc into next st, 1sc into next st] 4 times” means to work 1 sc into the next 1 st, 3 sc into the next 1 st, 1 sc into the next 1 st (for a total of 5 sts) repeated 4 times total (for a round total of 20 sts).
Hope that helps! ☺️
Beth says
In row 10 on the graham cracker I think there’s an error. It says 3sc in one stitch but I think it should be the dec over 3sc because we’ve started decreasing by this point. This is incredibly adorable!
Virkadia says
You are correct, it should be sc3tog, not 3sc! Thank you so much for catching that and letting me know! 🙂
Shelbie says
Hey so I’m having a problem with the tail part on the chocolate I tried in two separate times of two different chocolates and I’m just stuck I tried following it’s pattern on here but I kept messing up Ik I do better visually with a video and I tried finding on but didn’t find one
Virkadia says
Hi Shelbie,
We would love to branch out into video tutorials someday, however, we don’t have the resources to do so at this time, yet.
In the meantime, if you’re having trouble with the end part of the chocolate piece, an easier method may be to work rounds 1 to 6 only, then fasten off.
Then, repeat rounds 1 to 6 once more, for a second chocolate layer, and sew both layers together around the entire circumference to achieve the same thickness as the original pattern’s chocolate piece.
Hope this helps! 🙂